[Public-list] Rudder cracked, Green Stains down the hull?

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Sun Dec 18 13:57:59 PST 2005


Bob,

My boat had a constant leak around the rudder post. I discovered that it was 
NOT from the rudder stuffing box, rather it was coming from between the 
stern tube and the hull. This discovery made me very unhappy, but I fixed 
it. It was a long process that I documented in detail for a maintenance 
article. I will summarize the process here:

Steps:

1. Remove engine
2. Remove Rudder
3. Grind glass away around stern tube
4. Remove Stern tube
5. Clean all parts thoroughly
6. Re-install Rudder with stern tube and stuffing box (prepacked) in place
7.With Vice grips, hold stern tube to top of the shaft (Make sure the shaft 
is greased)
8. Fill void in hull from the inside (the little skeg above the rudder) with 
3M 5200 (it took 2 tubes)
9. Slide stern tube down into the 5200
10. wait 2-3 weeks for 5200 to cure
11. fiberglass around the stern tube
12 paint everything you can reach (afterall, how often do you get to spend 
this much time under the cockpit?)
13. re-install engine.
14. Hope and pray the grease worked and the rudder shaft is not glued in a 
fixed position
15. Have a beer - go sailing.

Hopefully you just need to re-pack your rudder post stuffing box.

Mike Lehman
~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~




----Original Message Follows----
From: Bob Crinion <bob at fox.nstn.ca>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all' <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: [Public-list] Rudder cracked, Green Stains down the hull?
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 14:10:19 -0400

Hi Mike,

In your rely you mentioned the green stains...

Is this a result of someone trying to adjust the rudder post packing (hull
560) and cracking the glassed area around the rudder post gland?

I have checked/looked at the rudder post gland, it and appears not to be
leaking but somewhere around it is leaking. This is just a guess on my part.

It is one annoying slow leak that came with the boat.
I have not touched this since I bought the boat for fear of opening a can of
worms.
Thing is, it should be fixed, I want to fix it. How does one fix/tackle that
one?

Thanks
-bob
A30 #560



-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Mike Lehman
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 12:21 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Rudder cracked

There are variations on how the rudder is attached. It changed several times

over the years of production. On Patty's boat #461 the rudder is attached
with a gudgeon mid-rudder and shoe at the bottom f the keel. I think they
are all the same in that regard. Where the boats differ is the constrution
on the rudder itself. The rudder stock on #461 is imbedded in the fiberglass

and extends up throught the cockpit sole. There is no way, short of cutting
up the rudder, to separate the stock from the rudder. As the rudder stock
passes through the hull, it goes through a tube which is glassed into the
hull on the inside of the boat and has a packing nut inside, between the
hull and the cockpit sole. The older boats have a fiberglass tube that
conncets the sole to the hull. In the older boats, as the boat moves through

the water, especially under power, the water rises through the tube and wets

the cockpit sole. This is why it is not uncommon to find delamination of the

sole in the older boats and why the change was made to put a packing nut on
a bronze tube in more recent boats. Now, I dare you to try to repack that
packing box on the newer boats, it is virtually impossible. That is why you
see green stains coming down the inside of the hull behind the engine. Hope
this helps. Let's all keep in mind that the construction of the boats
changed over the years and a fix for hull #22 would not necessarily work on
hull number 500. It make it important to stte your hull number when posting
a problem for advice.



Mike Lehman
~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~




----Original Message Follows----
From: Jonathan Whittingham <whittle at shaw.ca>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Rudder cracked
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 19:03:44 -0800


Dear Listers,
                   How exactly is the rudder connected to the pipe that runs
up to the helm? Mine seems to be attached to two deep flanges that are
bolted to the cheeks of the rudder. If that is all that holds the thing in
place, could one perhaps simply unbolt the flanges and slip the rudder out
without having to dig a pit under the whole thing? Regards Jonathan.

 >
 >Mike Lehman
 >~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >----Original Message Follows----
 >From: Timbuktu5555 at webtv.net (Patty J)
 >Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
 >To: public-list at alberg30.org
 >Subject: [Public-list] Rudder cracked
 >Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 13:34:47 -0600
 >
 >After hauling my boat and having it blocked on land I have discovered a
 >crack right down the middle of the rudder along the rudder post.  Is it
 >easily possible to take the rudder off without having to lift the boat
 >or must the boat be lifted?  Also, what is the best way to repair this
 >problem?  The yard wants to charge me $1,870 to do this and put me back
 >in the water.  I was wondering if I could simply sand the rudder out
 >about half way from the post, slap some fiberglass on it, paint it and
 >be done with it.  It looks like this could be done with the rudder in
 >place.
 >
 >Patty
 >Timbuktu 461
 >
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