[Public-list] Cockpit comings.

Joe jtokarz499 at myacc.net
Sun Dec 18 19:22:47 PST 2005


I think I used Philippine Mahogany for most of my projects. I went into
the nearest wood store and said, "Give me some Mahogany." I bought
whatever was cheapest. When sanded and sealed with Cetol, you can hardly
tell the difference. Everything wears well with Cetol.

If you absolutely want to get rid the wood combings, then you might as
well make new ones out of King Starboard. You can shape it easily with
hand tools, and you'll never have to paint or glass over it. I think it
comes in all kinds of colors. You could choose black, or maybe even
blue. 

Or , if you're not a purist, you could make your combings out of sheet
metal, or aluminum flashing. You might try a 1/4" thick piece of
aluminum. You could drill different size holes in it to give it that
space-age look. Then just buff it out each season. You could attach all
kinds of things to it like extra blocks, or jacklines. Although it would
be like sitting in a frying pan on a sunny day.


-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jonathan
Whittingham
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 9:23 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Cockpit coamings.

George Dinwiddie wrote:

> Jonathan Whittingham wrote:
>
>>     1. The coamings are attached with bolts that "disappear" into the

>> space bewtween the deck and the underside of the locker. There 
>> appears to be a cavity in there that now has the nut that must have 
>> dropped off when I unscrewed the bolt. Hmmm! What recomendations for 
>> re-attachement? I am thinking about drilling say a one inch hole from

>> below into that cavity right where the horizontal hole will be to 
>> pull the new boards into place, so that I can slip a washer and nut 
>> in there.
>
>
> I'm not sure what cavity you mean.  On Calypso, #543, the nuts are 
> mostly accessible by reaching up inside the locker.  There are a few 
> that were embedded in the layup, but not in a cavity.

    Well. George, trust me on this one. It would appear that there is 
indeed a second layup from the hull to the topside of the cockpit sides,

thus creating a cavity and my lost nuts.
     

>
>>    2. I am considering rebuilding the coamings out of marine grade 
>> plywood and fibreglassing them before installing them. Aside from 
>> possible aesthetic protests from the purist faction, what opinions 
>> about this method?  Any other suggestions.
>
>
> Having used glassed plywood to make some El Toro rudders, I think 
> you'll find that much more work than doing the job right with a 
> board.  If the cost of teak or mahogany is what's giving you pause, I 
> would fall back on "Chesapeake Teak" (pressure treated yellow pine) 
> before plywood.  You might also find that you can rejuvenate the 
> original coamings with a little ingenuity.

        Actually, after seeing the splits I have concludede that 
plywood, whilst I agree the extra work is, well, extra, that the plywood

will be a whole lot stronger as long as it retains water repulsion. 
However what kind of Mahogany are you proposing? On theWest Coast 
purpleheart is gaining some popularity as a replacement for teak. I am 
told that it wears the elements just about as well, probably better than

Mahogany and costs a fraction of teak. Regards Jonathan

>
>  - George
>


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