[Public-list] Toe Rail Replacement &Hull/deck Joint

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Mon Jun 27 05:20:49 PDT 2005

The fasteners that hold the toe rail on your boat (#565) are wood screws. If 
you are trying to save the teak, carefully dig out the bungs and remove the 
screws. If you are replacingin the teak, then just split it. The only place 
bolts were used was in the genoa track, be prepared to replace them with new 
ones, they are probably bent. Remove the rivets by drilling or punching them 
through, open the seam, clean out the old greg caulking, fill with either 
4200 or 5200 and fasten the deck/hull seam with flat head machine bolts. The 
joint will be stronger and drier.

Mike Lehman

----Original Message Follows----
From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Toe Rail Replacement &Hull/deck Joint
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 12:20:29 -0400

Jim & Carole wrote:
>Furthermore the Deck / Hull joint has leaked for some time.  Can someone 
>please advise as to the best or easeist way to remove the toe  rail. I  
>thought of drilling out the plugs and exposing the bolts but someone once 
>wrote about grinding off the bolts by grinding thru the rail and then , I 
>assume , driving the bolts thru the deck with a punch. Could someone please 

There's no reason why you can't break the existing toerail at the bolts and 
cut the heads off.  You can still salvage the teak between the bolts for 
creating wooden plugs and for other small repairs.

>Has anyone had experience replacing the taffrail?

Take a look at 
http://alberg30.org/maintenance/disorganized/TaffrailReplacement/ and you'll 
find some photos I took when I replaced the taffrail.

Sorry I've never found the time to organize them into a web page.  If you 
wouldn't mind writing up a text description of the process, I'd be glad to 
turn it into a web page.  You can just put the filenames of photos (mine or 
yours or a combination, your choice) in parenthesis where you'd like them to 

>I would also appreciate any advise on repairing the deck/hull seam. From 
>what I recall from past emails it involves drilling out the alum rivets and 
>replacing with #10 bolts. I was thinking of using 5200 on seam. I wonder if 
>I will be able to separate the seam to remove the existing adhesive.  How 
>much seam I should open at a time?

The hull deck joint, at least on the newer boats, was sealed by laying a 
strip of wet glass mat between them, providing a weak but waterproof 
fiberglass joint.  I chose to clean out any suspicious looking places with a 
screwdriver (as a chisel) from the outside and forcing 5200 into the seam.  
I also bedded the #10 flathead screws with 5200.  I used loctite green on 
the nuts, because I didn't think of it until after they were installed.  If 
I were to do it over, I'd use nylock nuts, instead.

I bedded the teak, itself, with 4200.

>Finally, at one time I was able to access an archive of all emails from the 
>past. I don't recall how I did it or if its still available.  May be this a 
>question for George.

There are message archives (http://www.alberg30.org/pipermail/public-list/) 
going back to April 2004.  The easiest way to find something is probably by 
using the site-wide search box found on most pages of the website.  That 
merely uses Google to search the site, but includes the email archives.  But 
always look at http://alberg30.org/maintenance/disorganized/ for photos, 
too, as Google can't easily index those.

  - George

   When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
   I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
   So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
   So many I love were not yet born.
                                             'The Middle' by Ogden Nash

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