[Public-list] RE: Pete's New Boat Questions

[Mike Lehman]

Do not make a holding tank out of Aluminum. SS is good, although expensive. 
polyethylene tanks work very weel is they are made properly. Do not by a 
Todd tank - they are too thin and will seep odor after a period of time. You 
may want to check Kracor tanks. They have a lot of stock sizes (measure 
carefully) and they will also build custom tanks. Depending on how you plan 
to use your boat, a porta pottie may work too.

Wood finishes - epoxy is not UV resistant so you may need to coat over with 
a UV resistant product. We when from oil, to Semco (hated the color), to 
Cetol, to Armada gloss. We like the Armada the best, although others have 
had curing problems with it. For us, it has excellent durability and is 
clear to show the natural beauty of the wood. After a primary coat of 3-4 
coats, we add a coat in the spring and another in the fall. After serveral 
years we take it all back and start over.



Mike Lehman
~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~




----Original Message Follows----
From: "Cole, Andrew L" <andrew.cole at llff.com>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: [Public-list] RE: Pete's New Boat Questions
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 10:59:59 -0500

On the holding tank question, it seems the most convenient place to put
the tank is on the port side under the V berth.  We have a "treatment"
system up there that I am evaluating replacing with a straight holding
tank to increase the volume.  I'd be interested in hearing what you come
up with for the space.  I spoke with a rigging shop, Atlantic Spar &
Rigging in Eastport, when I was at the boat show this year, they do
custom aluminum and stainless fabrication and said they could make a
custom holding tank to fit the space that would maximize volume and fit
more precisely than a store bought tank.  I don't know what the cost is,
but if you're at all interested I can ask them to price it out and see
if they'd do a group discount (I might get one at the same time if the
price was right).

On the varnish/cetol question, we are refinishing several of our
hatches.  What I am planning to do is to do the first three coats with
west system using the special projects hardener (expensive, but
apparently far superior for wood coating than the conventional hardener)
and then another three or four coats of varnish on top.  What I've heard
is that the epoxy works best hot-coated (i.e. wait until it hardens, but
is not fully cured, to build chemical rather than mechanical bonds).  As
I understand it, the varnish still needs to be recoated on the same
schedule that it would otherwise, but it is less likely to lift from the
wood, and only requires the three or so top coats rather than a total 7
coat refinish if slightly damaged or neglected (I have a feeling that
any serious neglect will still require a total strip and recoat).

Andrew
Andante - 152

Cole, Andrew L
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Baltimore MD 21117


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