[Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops

Roger L Kingsland rkingsland101 at ksba.com
Mon Nov 28 06:57:53 PST 2005


Gord & Pete,

I got some great Burmese teak from Steve at 401 253 3620  (an importer in
Jew Jersey).  I paid about $14 per board foot.   I believe it came in 8/4
thickness and I had it cut and planed down to mostly 5/8. I learned the hard
way there is allot of junk out there.  His stuff is the real deal.

I used some of it to replace the Plexiglas tops in the forward and lazarette
hatches (using original teak frames).  Some day I would like to laminate
teak strips on the plywood main hatch and build a teak cover into which the
hatch slides when open (I know that thing has a name).

In the "related but not relevant" department, one thought is to integrate
fore/aft grab rails onto outboard sides of the cover that would extend
forward past the cover and slope down to the lower cabin top.  This would
form the sides of a "tray" to stow stuff (sail bags normally stowed in
forward cabin while under way).  Eliminating the original grab rail, which
runs at about the middle of the space between the hatch and outboard edge of
the cabin, would make the cabin top a better seat and eliminate that lower
mid thigh welt.  I don't know if it would help or hurt the ergonomics of
using the grab rails while healed over.  It would probably be better to have
the leeward rails more inboard but harder to reach if transiting the
windward deck.

Roger


Roger Kingsland
Managing Partner
KSBA Architects
N40°- 27.83'  W79°- 57.99'

(412) 252-1500 x101 office
(412) 779-5101 cell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Laco" <mainstay at csolve.net>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Redoing Teak in Hatches and Seat Tops


> > Now that it is cold outside I am looking at jobs that
> > I can take home to work on.  I really want to do
> > something with the hatch covers and seat tops.  I am
> > thinking of routing out the delaminating wood and
> > putting in new wood.
> >
> > One problem is that I haven't found a source for teak
> > that isn't astronomical in price.  I am willing to
> > band saw my own strips if I can find some teak that is
> > 1.5" or 2" thick.  I don't really want to spend
> > $200-$300 for this little bit of teak.  Anyone know
> > where I can get some teak at a better price?  Either
> > pre-sawed strips or a suitable thick plank would be
> > OK.
> >
> > I am also open to other suggestions of how to fix the
> > hatches and seat tops,
> >
> > Pete Staehling
> > #554 Alberg 30
> > Aurora
> >
> >
> >
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