[Public-list] Toe Rail Replacement

[sousa, stephen (ENG)]

Fellow Albergers: 

This email was sent to Alberg owners in 1999 which I saved, since one day I
would be replacing toe rails. This may help some Alberg owners that are
facing the same situation.


From: "Alan P. Kefauver" <apk2 at home.com>

I am a woodworker with a full shop. I have just finished building all new
hatches, locker tops, (top loader ice box too) and companion way boards for
Andante. I used birch marine ply for the centers and then framed the edges
with solid teak, Before putting on the edging I laminated teak veneer on the
ply. The edges are screwed and glued and then the holes are bunged. The wood
is sealed with diluted Waterlox Marine and then four full coats with a light
sanding in between. The companion way hatch is laminated 1/8" ply bent over
a form, then vennered and framed. This all took about 18 hours of shop time
and about $300 in materials.

I figure it will take about 18 board feet or more of teak ($400) and about
30 hours of work to do the toe rails.  To do this you will need a sliding
compound mitre saw, a jointer, maybe a planer, a stationary belt sander and
a bandsaw. Teak dulls sawblades about as fast as anything too. Wear long
pants, long sleeve shirts, and a -good- dust mask or respirator. Teak dust
is toxic to the lungs and often irritates the skin. If you do it by hand,
(hand plane, xcut saw, chisels), I can't imagine the amount of labor
required. Even though I can do this, I am seriously considering having
someone else do it. If you get a price from someone maybe we can get a group
buy up?

Friend of mine made his seat locker tops on a Pearson from Scan Teak Dining
Room Table tops he bought at yard sales and flea markets. 4'X8' Teak
veneered ply is about $260 a sheet. Used Scan 3'X5" tables can be had for
$20-$50 a piece, and if old enough the legs are solid teak!
Cheers 
Alan 
Andante #152
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 9/14/1999 at 12:13 AM RABBIT649 at aol.com wrote:

>From: RABBIT649 at aol.com
>
>Dear Tom / Lee,
>     I was just looking at Ashwagh's toerail and realizing that I can't
avoid 
>that job much longer. 
>    And it is scary. It's cut to match the deck camber, it's bent in 3 
>dimensions to match the sheer line and the plan view curvature of the hull
(I 
>don't know the terminology for that), it flares out as it approaches the
bow 
>(ie, changes its angle in relation to the deck), it increases in height as 
>you go forward and it's scarfed, mitered and notched. You could waste a lot

>of time and teak or go very crazy getting those joints right if you don't 
>know what you're doing and I certainly don't. 
>    There are a couple of reference works I have somewhere that describe a 
>technique (I'll look), but I'd love to learn this hands on from somebody. 
>Does anyone know of an "Ancillary Joinerwork for Fiberglass Boats" course?
>    Let's keep this thread going a while. Everybody's going to have this 
>problem sooner or later.
>paul.
>Ashwagh #23
>
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-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of
dickdurk at atlanticbb.net
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:11 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-list] fiberglassing


>I haven't looked
>to see if they have a backing plate. Does anyone know the >answer to
>this? 

Whitby wasn't real big on backing plates. Mine are thru 
bolted to the flange of the deck/hull joint with washers 
under the nuts.

Can you just fill in the holes with thickened resin and 
'glass strands? Resin does shrink some as part of it's 
curing process, so several applications will insure water 
tightness.

Anyway, fill it, grind it, paint it. good as new. Ain't 
plastic wonderful?

Michael Grosh
#220

On Sun, 2 Oct 2005 17:12:24 -0500
  Timbuktu5555 at webtv.net (Patty J) wrote:
> Thanks for all the advice.  After reading and hearing 
>from everyone thus
> far, I have decided on using polyester resin, mat (1/2 
>oz) and cloth (10
> oz) and applying PVA to seal the air inhibited resin or 
>perhaps a
> finishing resin.  This is for the repair to the 
>hull-deck joint.
> 
> Now, for the stantions that pushed through the deck...I 
>haven't looked
> to see if they have a backing plate.  Does anyone know 
>the answer to
> this?  A friend of mine told me I should put a block of 
>wood under the
> stantion to make it an easier repair but I would have to 
>do this to
> every stantion to make it look right and I don't like 
>the idea of
> changing the boat like that.
> 
> Patty
> Timbuktu is gonna rise from the ashes...hey, perhaps I 
>should rename her
> Phoenix! 
> 
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