[Public-list] Pushpit, et al

[George Dinwiddie]

George Mathis wrote:
> 1) I don't seem to have a pushpit (aft pulpit). Any ideas where to get a 
> used one?

Many of the boats were delivered without them.  As Michael says, Tops In 
Quality supplied the originals and can make them for you.  A nearby 
marine metal fabricator could, also.  Used ones are going to be bent, or 
they'd still be on the boat.

> 2) Most of the deck hardware (cleats, winches, etc) was NOT backed up 
> with a backing plate, just washers, and not even large ones. Is this 
> typical?

Yes, unless a previous owner added backing plates.  It's worth doing.

> 3) The toe rails do not quite match the curve of the hull. Should I try 
> to bend them when installing them? They are clearly labelled and seemed 
> to be less curved than they need to be. #439 has 3 toerails on the port 
> / starboard sides that interlock. Has anyone else reinstalled these?

It's not surprising that they've straightened out.  You should have no 
trouble bending them as you reinstall.  Just start at one end and bend 
as you insert the bolts.

> 4) The handrail that goes above the cabin and inside the cabin is 
> missing. Has anyone ever made a new one? It seems like it would not be 
> tough, but if someone else has the measurements, I would like to use them.

I *think* they're about 9" on bolt centers, but best to measure your own 
boat.  Whitby was not a mass-production assembly line.

Don Casey's book "This Old Boat" 
(http://www.alberg30.org/store/Amazon.html#ThisOldBoat) has an excellent 
article on making handrails.  See pp 216-218.

> 5) The windows were a real pain! It seems the frames are NOT all 
> identical and you must match them to a partner. Also, the smaller ones 
> do not seem to fit the existing screw holes. Not to mention that "one 
> size does not fit all" so you have to measure each window. I would have 
> thought each of the smaller windows would be identical, but apparently 
> not with #439. It seems there are two lengths of screws as well, and the 
> shorter ones are not long enough for use with screws, the long ones 
> barely are. My frames are in great shape, so I would like to use them, 
> but had to leave three of the smaller windows undone because I ran out 
> of long screws. Also, what thickness of Lexan do you suggest? I used 
> quarter-inch but am thinking I may try something thicker. Has anyone 
> reinstalled portlights?

See http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/HullDeck/Portlights/  My frames 
were all the same, but it probably just depends on who drilled the 
holes.  The thickness of the cabin, however, does vary.  The old screws 
were sometimes cut to length.  I just varied the number of washers on 
the inside as needed.  The openings also are roughly cut.  You need the 
glass to float in the opening.  If it touches, it will cause stress 
cracks.  I found it easier to file the opening than to shave the glass.

> 6) I need new spreaders, my wood ones are toast. Anyone have dimensions 
> or a fabricator they have used?

Again, measure what you have.  Whitby used many designs and dimensions. 
  Cutting new wooden ones using the old ones as a pattern is the 
easiest.   Some people feel safer going to aluminum.  Check the 
condition of the bases, while you're at it.  The maintenance manual, 
available to members, has several articles on spreaders.

  - George

-- 
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   When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
   I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
   So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
   So many I love were not yet born.
                                             'The Middle' by Ogden Nash
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