[Public-list] teak deck caulk

Don Campbell dk.campbell at sympatico.ca
Mon Sep 12 07:39:39 PDT 2005


Hi George;
    It depends on what problem you want solved. If you want to stop boards
from checking or cracking, then relieving the internal stress is the answer
and you have done that with the saw for the time being. (The initial choice
would be to choose quarter cut lumber to minimise distortion). If you want
to prevent it from happening again, then you need to remove the cause of the
changing stress, which apparently is wetting and drying of big pieces of
wood with changes in the moisture levels within the wood. Gougeons recommend
that wood be very dry and then completely enclose it with a barrier - epoxy
in their case,  of course - but this is not particularly practical for this
application, where you want to see the teak and have it in the sun.  The
smaller the piece of wood, the less it will expand and contract, and thus
they recommend that, for teak decks, one use as thin material as possible,
epoxy it to the sub deck, and  caulk the joints. Epoxy on the edges to be
caulked is also a benefit when it comes to both moisture intke and removing
the caulking to redo the job. Screws on teak decks are not recommended as
they only add to the moisture problems by piercing the deck and deck core if
there is one ,  by adding yet another co-efficient of expansion from the
metal in the screws and thus, additional moisture penetration. Industrial
Formulations of Canada does make a very thin 2 part epoxy sealer and this
takes 48 hours to set so it does penetrate well. It is available from Noah's
in Buffalo (www.noahsmarine.com) and the smallest size  cans go a long way.
    The above process of epoxy and caulking leaves only the top surface
open, and if one were to use a good oil such as Tung Oil, and maintain the
wood pore space with an oil component,  then water will not penetrate as
much as if it were left bare. Just make sure there is no excess oil  that
will come off on clothes and to do this,   one might want to use methyl
alcohol or turpentine or both to thin the oil a bit for greater penetration
into the surface. (There is a really good furniture polish, known as Mrs.
Beaton's polish,  that is made of equal parts turpentine, vinegar,  methanol
and linseed oil (boiled for interior and raw for exterior) that would also
work well for you. White vinegar makes a lighter polish then either malt or
cider vinegar but all work equally well.  I know this sounds to be a crazy
emulsion, but it works and resists any water or alcohol stains on the
finish, polishes to a dull gloss, and is easily added to at any time in the
life of the wood as long as it is clean before further applications. I
presume the vinegar both changes the pH and acts as an anti-mildew agent.)
Epoxy would be nice, but there is no UV resistance and so it breaks down in
the sun. There is a chapter on teak decks  in Gougeon's book on fiberglass
repair available for $3.00 at West and probably Fawcett's as well.
While this does not solve which caulking to use, I suggest you check with
either a local yard that does teak work or more to the practical, their
customers,  or with some of the yards that are noted for woodwork in Maine,
mentioned  in eitherof the magazines wooden boat or professional boat
builder. From one friend who has recaulked a teak deck, mask off the seams
before adding caulk.

Don
#528

George Dinwiddie wrote:

> The insets in my cockpit seat lockers had been replaced with solid teak
> boards (from the original teak veneer plywood) by the previous owner.
> Unfortunately, teak of that width will warp and split when water gets
> under it and other parts are still firmly bedded.
>
> I'm finally getting around to doing something about this, and I've
> ripped the split board into two-inch widths.  I know some people have
> epoxied teak into these hatches, but I'm thinking that teak deck caulk
> will be a better idea.
>
> Will deck caulk be a good idea?  And what kind do you recommend?
>
>   - George
>
> --
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>    When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
>    I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>    So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
>    So many I love were not yet born.
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>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
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