[Public-list] Removal of brass temperature sensor

[C.B. Currier]

On most mechanical parts ...

Heat will help but the one that said heat the brass fitting directly is
WRONG!
TO free a stuck bolt,threaded fitting ALWAYS heat the metal of the
surrounding area being sure not to heat the the actual threaded fitting
you are removing.

You might - since you motor is running fine, run the motor for a time to
get the entire block warmed up. Soak the area at the threads with WD-40 or
my favorite DeepCreep(Seafoam). Then add a little extra heat around the
area of the temp sensor on the Head. then try turning off with a VERY
LARGE Crescent Wrench. These work best as you will NOT slip. A grip wrench
will destroy the surface area. Though that may not be an issue ... it may
be in the long run.

That shuold do it.

Also on putting the new sensor in - Use teflon tape around the threads
just like plumbing.

-- 
C.B. Currier
Infinity #57
Daybreak #458

George Dinwiddie wrote:
> David Parkes wrote:
>> Our Atomic 4 is now running beautifully with full compression and great
>> oil
>> pressure.  However, the temperature sensor is broken and must be
>> replaced.
>> Has anyone any ideas on how to remove a terribly seized brass
>> temperature
>> sensor bushing on the front of the block?  I have tried so much, with so
>> many tools, that the hexagonal is now rounded and the bushing has not
>> moved.
>
> David, I asked your question on the Atomic 4 list.  Here are some
> responses I got:
>
> ---
>
> If there's room, a pipe wrench or large channel locks would work.  Also
> try heating the block around the unit with a heat gun to expand the
> block and likely free up the unit.
>
> ---
>
> Heat, pressure, shock,  lube with some penetrating oil, then repeat the
> process two or three times.
>
> When heating, use the best torch you have. A brazing torch with map gas
> will do it. Heat the fouled item directly, not the block. The item will
> quickly dissipate it's heat to the block,
>
> Spray with penetrating oil, tap with a hammer and cold chisel, and then
> try the wrench or vice grip. Always spraying more penetrating oil and
> tapping.
>
> Do not try to free the item with one go at it. Aim for two or three or
> more heat, lube, shock, and then pressure with your wrench. You will not
> fail.
>
> The combination of the thermal expansion, the penetrating oil, the
> rapping, and the pressure from a good vice grip, repeated over and over,
> will move anything.
>
> So nice to hear that sound when you finally get her............CHEEEEEK.
>
> ---
>
> If it's as badly damaged as you say, you're going to have to drill it
> out.  Drill smaller than the thread size, and then cut the remaining
> 'bushing' with a hacksaw.
>
>    Best way to deal with those that still have some shape is with a six
> point socket.  Adjustable wrenches are just asking for trouble, and 12
> point sockets are only effective on units that aren't too badly bunged
> up.  The problem is that the brass is so soft that it just flows out of
> the way of the wrench.
>
>    DO NOT use heat!  Brass is a copper alloy and will expand MORE than
> the cast iron head, and hence get tighter.
>
> ---
>
> Temp senders that are stubborn can be removed with a sharp pipe wrench,
> provided you have enough room to swing it.
>
> ---
>
> There was a second to the notion that you NOT use heat.
>
>   - George
>
> --
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>    When I remember bygone days                         George Dinwiddie
>    I think how evening follows morn;            gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>    So many I loved were not yet dead,           http://www.Alberg30.org
>    So many I love were not yet born.
>                 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
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