[Public-list] Rudder head removal/cockpit floor

[Gordon Laco]

Thanks Don - detailed good advice as usual!

Gord








> Hi Gord;
>   The rudder head is not that difficult to get off in freshwater
> boats. The difficult part is to rebuild the bronze to get the hole back
> to 3/8" and round. I gave mine to a machinist to fill and redrill and
> the whole thing melted just as he had  finished filling things. So he
> made me a stainless one. Solved the problem beautifully!
>    Some penetrating oil on the system from the back where it is cut
> away  for compression by the pin is good. Then,  the easy way is to use
> a big fork like a tie rod end fork for trucks and just ease things off,
> or put  a  flat metal piece on the floor to spread the force and use a
> wide thin pry bar like a "wonderbar" (TMR) and work around the
> circumference as you can, but  gently too. If you need a bit of heat,
> then a small torch also works. There is a keyway in the system on the
> front face, so avoid trying to take the key out at the same time. If all
> that fails, support the off side to the pry with a cold chisel so
> pressure up is equal and opposite.
>   By the way, I used a circular saw with a diamond blade to cut the
> top off the cockpit floor  and that worked really well. The new thin
> diamond blades should leave a really narrow kerf to fill. The 1 1/4" or
> so left on the edge, once scarfed,  makes for an easy surface to work
> back up to and gives a good line for the finish. There is a bit of solid
> material around the cockpit drains and so some prior thought as to how
> to recess things there for the new surface, and make sure the water
> drains after you finish, (with the thought process before you cut) is a
> big help.  I still need to put the drain covers back on, because they
> are a bit high for water flow.
>   I really don't know why anyone wants to put back the old surface,
> considering that polyester is not impervious to water. Epoxies are.  I
> also question using plywood in the core, particularly with polyester
> covers. It is heavy, has grain that supports water movement along its
> length, and can itself delaminate. Masonite or balsa would be better
> choices for durability in my opinion. (The core in the floor is 3/8").
> Keeping things dry in the first place is the key, so make sure there are
> solid epoxy areas around the inspection port/binnacle ring, and rudder
> post areas.
>   I also used some 6" fiberglass tape (2 layers) and did a build up
> onto the cockpit sides for added strength. Covering the areas on the
> sides above the tape where  you don't want epoxy adhering too is easier
> than removing spills. I used Sikkens (tmr) deck paint and have not had
> any slipping of feet on that surface.
> Don #528
> 
> 
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