[Public-list] Dripless bearing

Sat Feb 10 08:04:47 PST 2007

I think what Don is saying is that you don't want the stern tube to rotate 
when you unscrew the external cutlass bearing flange from the stern tube - 
this is a two person operation, one person needs to be inside using padded 
monkey wrenches so as to not damage the bronze stern tube one has to hold 
the tube with the wrench to prevent it from rotating. If it rotates you will 
need to remove the tube and clean out the old Doflinite and replace it with 
5200 or 4200. If you  rotate it a little and try to relaunch without 
resealing it will leak around the tube. If you are careful in the removal 
process you won't need to do a reseal of the tube.

The second person out side will use a padded monkey wrench to unscrew the 
cutlass flange from the tube (they are threaded together). Fist you need to 
remove the large bronze bolts, one top, one bottom which go through the 
external cutlass housing flange into the fibreglass deadwood of the boat.

Once the flange hosing is off, take it to a machine shop and get the old 
cutlass bearing removed - they have the right equipment and it really isn't 
worth the time and effort to try to remove the old bearing yourself. When I 
did mine it cost $35 to remove and press in an new bearing, about half the 
cost of the Iso cutlass bearing its self.

Reassembly is the reverse of removal with the same considerations on keeping 
the stern tube from rotating.

Use lots of caulking and all will be well.

Either the prop or the prop shaft will need to have been removed to make the 
change out.

If removing the shaft make sure the counterset shaft holes are lined up with 
the engine coupling flange so that the screw bolts can enter partway into 
the shaft to prevent the shaft from pulling out in reverse. These are 
usually square bolts with a hole drilled in them for a keeper wire to pass 
through to prevent the bolts from unscrewing themselves and letting the 
shaft get loose. It is important to secure the wire around the engine flange 
and mouse it tight.

An additional step I take is to put a hose clamp on the shaft about 3/4" 
away from the stuffing box inside the boat so if the shaft ever uncouples 
the hose clamp will hit the stuffing box and prevent the shaft from exiting 
the boat or the prop from hitting and damaging or jamming the rudder. That 
was a tip from Harry Grigat - good idea.

Hope this is a help.

Cheers,

John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Manika" <pmanika at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Dripless bearing

> Don,
>  I am a little confused as to why I need to take the stern tube out. Also, 
> how would I keep it from turning on the inside if I on the outside.
>  Pete #154
>
> Don Campbell <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca> wrote:
>  an addition to Mike's method: do not let the stern tube turn on the
> inside as you unscrew the bearing holder on the outside, especially if
> you have the old grey caulking, otherwise the seal is broken and will
> leak. Clean the whole area where the shaft exits the hull and remove all
> the old caulking, replace the stern tube onto the bearing holder, align
> (with the two bolts on the outside) so it does not touch the shaft,
> replace the caulking with newer modern materials, (I think both Mike and
> I would say 3M 5200, but 4200 at least). and reset the prop.You might
> also want to check the shaft alignment too while it is there to do.
> Don #528
>
> Mike Lehman wrote:
>> I have changed the cutlass bearing several times -
>>
>> Remove the prop
>> Remove the 2 screws in the housing
>> Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the housing from the stern tube
>>
>> You can take it to a shop and the will press out the old bearing or you 
>> can
>> do it yourself
>>
>> Remove the 2 allen set screws on sides of the housing
>> Try to press out the bearing with a socket that is just the right size - 
>> or-
>> Using a hacksaw blade carefully cut a section lenghtwise out of the 
>> bearing
>> and then push it out
>> Cut the new bearing to the proper length
>> Press the new bearing in the housing
>> Make sure you drill holes in the bearing through the water inlets on the
>> housing
>> be sure there are not any burrs inside
>> re-assemble
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Lehman
>> ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----Original Message Follows----
>> From: Peter Manika
>
>> Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>
>
>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>
>> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Dripless bearing
>> Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 11:12:32 -0800 (PST)
>>
>> Thanks Stephen for the input. Any problem hanging over the engine to do 
>> the
>> work? Know anyone that put in a cutless bearing?
>> Pete #154
>>
>> Stephen s wrote:
>> Peter,
>>
>> I have the PSS Dripless on #114. The biggest job was separating the shaft
>> from the coupling. You also have to make sure there aren't any burrs on 
>> the
>> shaft since the o-rings provide a tight fit around the shaft. Other than
>> those issues, the install is straight forward.
>>
>> Stephen
>> #114
>>
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