[Public-List] Foredeck -adding blocks of wood under fairleads to get them off of the toerails

[Jeffrey]

Part of the issue I'm running into is size of a fairlead that can can
accommodate a 3/4" or even a 1 inch mooring pendant. The pendant gets
even larger if you use chafing gear.   The fairleads I've been looking
at are wider than 1 inch, some 1 and 3/8 wide.  I don't think my toe
rail is even that wide.  I agree about overbuilt, but not necessarily
when it comes to the toerail.

-jeff



On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 5:34 PM, Michael <dickdurk at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>
>
> > -Jeff Fongemie  said
> >
>
>
>   <snip>
>
>  This
>  seems like a good idea, allowing the use of a larger sized fairlead
>  (width constraint on the toe-rail) as well as removing stresses from
>  the toe-rail itself.
>
>  has anyone done this? Care to comment? Anyone encountered problems
>  <snip>
>
>  The factory open chocks are lag bolted to the teak toe rail-that's the weak
> point IMHO. I have lost one of mine, but that may be because Checkmate's
> toerails are in dire need of replacement. Anyway, thru bolting- a pretty
> straightforward operation- seems to me would be all the beefing anyone would
> want, since you are going through the deck and the hull flange. That
> fairlead is not really taking the load. If I was worried about shock loads
> on a mooring, I would install massive backing plates under the cleats.
>
>  It seems easy to over engineer corrections. The thing is, the boat is
> massively overbuilt (by today's standards) so why not work with what is
> already there?
>
>  MichaelGrosh
>  #220
>
>

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