[Public-List] Removing 3M 5200: merci!

[Randy Katz]

Greetings, and many thanks to Jeff and Gord,

Just hearing that someone else has been through this is a big help.
     The solvent and wire techniques are worth a try, and the
     stressing and leaving-it idea sounds good, too. Thanks, tons.

I had read mixed comments on the Internet about toulene/acetone with
     5200 (some even mentioned paint thinner), and believe those to
     work before the 5200 cures all the way, as in cleaning up dabs
     here and there.

What I need to remember having learned from this experience is to find
     out about the task BEFOREHAND, instead of being quite so brazen
     about assuming I know how to do it. The most basic articles about
     t-hulls and seacocks emphasize the importance of being sure
     they're the same metal type-- all of my reference books cite
     this! Argh!!

Interestingly, a few people think that 5200 has NO place on a boat;
    others that 4200 is the stuff to use for t-hull fittings. As
    always, opinions vary, even on something as routine as this topic.

Thanks again-- I'll let you know how this goes after I remedy the
     problem on Wednesday.

   Regards,
Randy Katz
#249
Bellingham/Seattle,WA. 


> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 17:13:50 -0400
> From: Jeffrey <fongemie at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Removing 3M 5200?
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> 	<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Message-ID:
> 	<a954c9770808021413o4e2e6360nc1c40fabfb43ccd0 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> 
> Hi Randy,
> 
> I've seen this stuff supposedly able to dissolve 5200 although I've
> not used it:
> http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,29255.html
> 
> I just went through removing 4x5" blocks of wood from my deck that
> was
> adhered with 5200 and what worked for me was using some strong wire
> as
> a cutting device, slowly sawing through the 5200 where ever I could,
> then tapping in some thin putty knives..eventually slipping a wood
> wedge in there.  I went through lots of wire, it has to be thin, but
> strong. I took about 4 feet of wire, wrapped each end around a short
> dowel and sawed back and forth slowly. Going too fast breaks the
> wire,
> and I was generating smoke!
> 
> Granted, if your seacock is threaded to your through-hull you'll
> never
> be able to wedge anything apart. Remove the bolts, try cutting the
> seal with a wire all the way around, then possibly spin the seacock
> to
> unthread from the seacock.
> 
> I tried acetone and it did nothing, as did toluene.
> 
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> -jeff
> 
> #116
> 
> 
> 
> On Sat, Aug 2, 2008 at 4:43 PM, Randy Katz <randyk at bertschi.org>
> wrote:
> > Greetings,
> >
> >
> > Due to an embarrassing (should I say, stupid?) oversight I feel
> >    compelled to take apart a new through-hull/seacock assembly and
> > redo it. The reason? I unwittingly used a through-hull that is a
> > different metal than the bronze Apollo seacock. I don't know what
> > exactly the through-hull is made of, but instead of worrying about
> >    it, I'm going to deal with it now.
> >
> > I used 3M 5200 in putting the thing together-- can anyone suggest
> > removal techniques? By now I understand that this is going to be
> > a real bear to get apart. I'd really like to be able to reuse the
> >     $100 seacock, of course!
> >
> > I understand that acetone might help, cutting of the 5200 made be
> > of
> > some use-- I'm imagining that I may use a sawz-all to lop off the
> >    head of the through-hull... and then....?
> >
> >    Many thanks for your help as I fumble down the DIY path, here.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 18:02:39 -0400
> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Removing 3M 5200?
> To: "fongemie at gmail.com, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> 	<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Message-ID: <C4BA51BF.74683E54%mainstay at csolve.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> Hi -
> 
> I 'smote my forehead' after realizing that I had allowed my
> knotmeter
> through hull to rotate when tightening the inside nut. It was 5200'd
> in,
> hence the self-smack on the forehead.
> 
> I removed the sending unit, put a doubled line through the through
> hull
> around a bar of oak inside. I led the doubled line around a leg of
> the
> cradle and inserted a 3' piece of oak as a spanish windlass and
> wound it up
> as tight as I could make it; tied off the bar then I walked away.
> 
> I came back the next day and the through hull had broken free of the
> 5200
> and popped out.
> 
> I am sure this is not the prescribed method, but it worked.
> 
> Who else would I admit such a story to than fellow A30 sailors?
> 
> Gord #426
>