[Public-List] Taffrail Replacement Update

[Cole, Andrew L]

I have seen at least one boat with the "ventilated" taffrail.  I like
the look of it, but wonder how truly useful it is, as that part of our
boat is rarely full of water needing to drain (we have not seen much
truly rough weather yet).  The problems I see in replacing ours with
that is that the deck under the taffrail would need to be finished
unless we went with a bottom board as you've suggested.  By the time
I've cut two of the three boards, I may as well cut all three and make a
nice solid taffrail.  On the other hand, if you could simply remove the
existing taffrail and recycle the bottom and/or middle board into a
ventilated taffrail, you might save yourself a lot of work.  I may do it
that way yet, still undecided.

The curve in the board I was talking about is not the lateral curve,
which is definitely cut into the board, rather I was talking about the
crown of the board.  If you take a flat board and lay it on top of the
second piece of wood, you'll find the two ends sit an inch or so above
the ends of the board below.  The original boards were either steam
bent, or possibly simply bent, screwed & glued into place.  I am not
sure the bottom two boards on our boat are solid enough to be able to
hold screws in a 'sprung' 3/4 inch teak top board (even if epoxy between
the boards would take most of the loading once it was set), but they may
be ok with a slightly thinner top board that would bend more easily.

Another problem I am having is that the old boards are very difficult to
remove on our boat.  I spent a day of knuckle busting just getting the
fittings and pieces of the top board removed.  I have not yet tried to
go back to remove the lower two boards, as I was going to try to do this
with them in place (which may be a mistake).

Another issue is creating the precise shape necessary for the board.
Another list member has been kind enough to send me the old boards off
of another non-liner boat.  I am going to try to use one or more of them
as a template to create the new board.  I'll take photos of the project
and post them if I have any success.  

If you're going to try to make one from scratch, I think the radius of
the inside curve is approximately 52 inches, and the outer curve is on a
radius 3 and some fraction (3.25 I think) longer.  That was derived from
much measuring and math, the measuring was difficult without reference
points in the cockpit, and the math was difficult as I have not had to
solve a quadratic equation in many years.  Many opportunities for error
in the calculation so don't take that as gospel.  

Andrew.  


Michael Connolly wrote: 

"For a while the earlier boats had what I call a "ventilated" taffrail.
My meaning is that water could flow thru it to get off the stern.  The
upper board was positioned on 5 or 6 "piers" which allowed water to pass
between them and off the stern.  I always thought that this was a better
design, although easier to break if you jumped on the top board between
the piers. It might be a thin bottom board then the piers and then a
thicker top board.  Others on this list can comment as to the
specifics."
   
"From what I remember of my taffrail, none of the three boards are bent.
They are all cut in the curve from flat boards.  Inspect closely the
grain and you will see that this is the case.  Use a band saw and cut
yourself a new top board, actually several boards.  Each layer of the
three is made up of several boards cut so that their joints overlap.
When glued together they overlap enough to stay
together.................at least for 25 or so years.  Or in my case 42
years."

Jonathan Buddington wrote:
  
"My taffrail needs replacement as well.  I'm curious about Michael's
post "the top board of the taffrail" - could I replace the top board
without removing the bottom board?  I assumed they were glued together.
Replacing only the top board (the damaged piece on my boat) would be a
less daunting project."  

Cole, Andrew L
Admitted in Maryland, Virginia & Florida
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10451 Mill Run Circle, Suite 1000
Baltimore MD 21117

 
tel: 410 581-7408
fax: (410) 581-7410
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