[Public-List] More on lifting Alberg 30's ~ Solutions

[dan walker]

i keep reading aft of the horn timber. if th alberg has a horn timber, shouldn't the strap be forwrd of the horn timber, forward of the rudder shoe? 
remember, i am a poor ignorant accountant
dan


--- On Wed, 11/12/08, John Birch <Sunstone at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> From: John Birch <Sunstone at cogeco.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] More on lifting Alberg 30's ~ Solutions
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2008, 5:47 PM
> Straps should always be tied continuously from bow to stern
> and around the straps once the straps have loaded up. This
> prevents the straps from slipping and in a worst case the
> boat sliding out of the slings.
> 
> We have never had a strap slip - but it is good lifting
> practice, I prefer to see 1/2 Dacron used for the tie down.
> 
> We use an I beam certified for lifting (NDT inspected and
> recertified annually) and it straddles the hull thwart ships
> at 90 degrees to fore and aft. The I beam is 13 feet wide
> keeping sheer compression loading to a minimum. We use a 2
> foot extension on the aft strap and 8 1/2 ton lift grade
> shackles - the extension is a 3/4 Wire Lifting Strap 4'
> long placed in a basket formation on the hook (making it
> 2' long and the webbing strap shackled to the wire
> strap.
> 
> Do not let the strap touch the rudder post, keep it aft of
> the horn timber
> 
> You can resolve your keel problem however by placing
> several 2 x 4 thwartships to the keel raising the boat
> enough to allow strap placement under the keel for lift in
> assuming you have adjustable screw jacks.
> 
> We've lifted roughly 5000 boats over 33 years without
> incident - touch wood ; )
> 
> And we don't screw around with safety - use the proper
> certified equipment - yer dead a long time
> 
> Hope this is a help
> 
> ATB
> 
> John
> 
> John Birch, President - LaSalle Park Marina Association
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From:
> <crufone at comcast.net>
> To: "Alberg, Public List"
> <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 1:27 PM
> Subject: [Public-List] More on lifting Alberg 30's
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > John,
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I have a question for you and others. When I designed
> my trailer I failed to plan for where the aft lifting strap
> would fall when the boat was close to being set onto the
> trailer. I designed the trailer so that when properly loaded
> the aft foot or so of the keel wound be off the end of the
> trailer center support, to allow the aft strap to be placed
> under the aft part of the keel. The issue is that, according
> to Murphy, I failed to realize that the aft straps interfere
> with the aft trailer support jacks for the hull of the boat.
> What I have done up to this point is to lift the boat under
> the keel and set it on the trailer as far forward as
> possible. At this point the keel is protruding about 2 feet
> aft of the trailer, but is firmly on the trailer, which is
> attached to the tow vehicle. The aft strap is then
> disconnected and inserted thru the prop aperture and then
> the boat is only lifted slightly to scoot it forward into
> the bow stop on the trailer. This makes me a bit nervous
> until the aft strap can be repositioned, but all has seemed
> to work fine.
> > 
> > I really don't like lifting the boat from anywhere
> but under the keel aft and as far aft as possible near the
> forward cutaway.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I never considered lifting the Alberg 30 by placing
> the aft strap under the counter as far forward to the rudder
> post as possible. I was really fearful that the boat would
> tear apart.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I also just lash the fore and aft straps to each other
> along the gunwale and provide a photograph for the crane
> > 
> > opperator so they know where to position the straps
> while she is in the water. You cleat the straps to the boat,
> as you would a spring line to a dock piling? Is that
> better/safer?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks for yours and others input on this lifting
> proceedure. I would like to do what is safest and best for
> the boat.
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "John
> Birch" < Sunstone at cogeco.ca >
> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> < public-list at lists.alberg30.org >
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11:32:19 AM GMT
> -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Lifting boat by rudder ~
> solution
> > 
> > I've been the Facilities Director of our Club for
> 4 years ending 2 years ago
> > and have lifted many an Alberg, my own included. I am
> ticketed to direct and
> > signal the crane.
> > 
> > To avoid this type of error I strongly recommend doing
> a Counter Lift when
> > the boat is in the water, that is placing the aft
> strap behind the rudder
> > and lifting from just behind the horn timber.
> > 
> > When Launching, where we can see the placement
> clearly, we do the
> > traditional Keel lift.
> > 
> > The boat will take it just fine and there is much less
> chance of error.
> > 
> > Always check the rudder for being free when the straps
> start to load up and
> > stop and lower the boat immediately if either of the
> following two things
> > happen:
> > 
> > 1. the tiller immediately moves to the side as the
> straps tighten
> > 
> > 2. the tiller feels like it has any drag on it
> > 
> > Always have a person on shore looking under the
> counter as she starts to
> > rise to ensure the strap is behind the horn timber
> > 
> > And don't forget to tie the straps together and
> fore and aft to a strong
> > point like the bow and stern cleats - leading the line
> along the sheer and
> > through the stanchions fairly without point loading
> anything to avoid strap
> > slipping
> > 
> > 
> > ATB
> > 
> > John
> > 
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