[Public-List] Touch Wood Garboard Removal

[Gordon Laco]

Thanks a lot - 

I got the same advice from a friend at Boothbay Harbour Shipyard - I am
going to use that system.

I will send pictures once I get the garboards off...

TOUCH WOOD is right behind me, outside the office here; have to concentrate
on work!

Gord



On 4/2/09 10:55 AM, "crufone at comcast.net" <crufone at comcast.net> wrote:

> 

Hi Gord, 



If there is room around the iron nail head, you might try using
> a plug cutter bit in a hand held drill motor.  This would be set to just shigh
> of the plank thickness. 



Once the nail shaft is exposed I have had much
> better luck prying them out with "vise grips" clamped onto the shank.  The
> beauty of vise grips is that they can more easily be re-clamped lower on the
> nail shaft as you work the nail free.  The rounded 'nose' of the vise grips
> works well to rotate to the adjacent wood and leverage out the nail.
> 



Another idea if the nail head is missing and the shank is straight. 
> Locate a hardened steel roll pin with an inside diameter just larger than the
> outside diameter of the nail shank.  Use a grinding wheel to cut cutting teeth
> around the circumference of one end of the roll pin. (You can also file teeth
> in place with a new sharp triangular file).  Angle the teeth toward the
> direction you wish to rotate the roll pin.  Chuck the roll pin in a drill
> motor and carefully cut away the wood plank from around the nail.  After
> removing the plank then attempt to remove the remainer of the nail which is in
> the rib. 





Alberg Stuff: 

One issue in applying a teak veneer to a
> fibreglass deck suface arrises in the selection of fasteners.  If one uses
> traditional mechanical fasteners they often do not have enough material to
> hold into and eventually allow the teak veneer to "pump" which causes the
> threads of the fasteners to "saw" larger holes in the deck to create leaks
> into the coring or worse.  Since the teak veneer is not structural and just a
> pretty face, I would consider using adhesives to secure it to the fibreglass
> substrate.  No fasteners, no holes, no leaks, at least from that source!!
> 



I always like to hear about "Touch Wood". 



Michael 








PS worked
> on TOUCH WOOD on the weekend - first order of business is to 
remove her
> garboard planks so as to be able to come at the notches in the 
keel for the
> new ribs.  What a pleasure to find all the long-familiar 
details of each
> plank...  What a horror to find that while the upper edge is 
riveted and easy
> to release, the lower edge was nailed on with square iron 
'dumps'.  Some of
> them had vanished into red dust, but most are still solid 
and resisting.  Lay
> awake last night considering how to disturb them without 
destroying the
> planks, which I intend to use as a pattern for the new ones. 
Decided to
> carefully cut 'ramps' around each dump head with a small sharp 
chisel then
> tap a very sharp crow in and pull... Might work...
> 

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