[Public-List] Touch Wood Garboard Removal

[Roger L. Kingsland]

Gord,

I don't know if this would apply but I got so frustrated trying to finesse
the bolts holding my old toe rail I resorted to cutting them off from the
side (horizontally) with a thin cut off wheel mounted on my hand grinder.  I
cut into the wood first and stopped when the sparks stopped.  Lots of smoke;
a few squirts from a water bottle helps prevent forest fires.  Might even
find a small, round saw blade that would do the trick in a little more
civilized (less smoky) way.  

That grinder is a great tool but, boy, is it scary to use. 

Roger



Hi Gord, 



If there is room around the iron nail head, you might try using a plug
cutter bit in a hand held drill motor.  This would be set to just shigh of
the plank thickness. 



Once the nail shaft is exposed I have had much better luck prying them out
with "vise grips" clamped onto the shank.  The beauty of vise grips is that
they can more easily be re-clamped lower on the nail shaft as you work the
nail free.  The rounded 'nose' of the vise grips works well to rotate to the
adjacent wood and leverage out the nail. 



Another idea if the nail head is missing and the shank is straight.  Locate
a hardened steel roll pin with an inside diameter just larger than the
outside diameter of the nail shank.  Use a grinding wheel to cut cutting
teeth around the circumference of one end of the roll pin. (You can also
file teeth in place with a new sharp triangular file).  Angle the teeth
toward the direction you wish to rotate the roll pin.  Chuck the roll pin in
a drill motor and carefully cut away the wood plank from around the nail. 
After removing the plank then attempt to remove the remainer of the nail
which is in the rib. 





Alberg Stuff: 

One issue in applying a teak veneer to a fibreglass deck suface arrises in
the selection of fasteners.  If one uses traditional mechanical fasteners
they often do not have enough material to hold into and eventually allow the
teak veneer to "pump" which causes the threads of the fasteners to "saw"
larger holes in the deck to create leaks into the coring or worse.  Since
the teak veneer is not structural and just a pretty face, I would consider
using adhesives to secure it to the fibreglass substrate.  No fasteners, no
holes, no leaks, at least from that source!! 



I always like to hear about "Touch Wood". 



Michael 








PS worked on TOUCH WOOD on the weekend - first order of business is to
remove her garboard planks so as to be able to come at the notches in the
keel for the new ribs.  What a pleasure to find all the long-familiar
details of each plank...  What a horror to find that while the upper edge is
riveted and easy to release, the lower edge was nailed on with square iron
'dumps'.  Some of them had vanished into red dust, but most are still solid
and resisting.  Lay awake last night considering how to disturb them without
destroying the planks, which I intend to use as a pattern for the new ones. 
Decided to carefully cut 'ramps' around each dump head with a small sharp
chisel then tap a very sharp crow in and pull... Might work... 

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