[Public-List] Touch Wood Garboard Removal

[Gordon Laco]

Another friend wrote to me off list suggesting burning the boat then pulling
the fastenings out of the remains....

Luckily he is far enough away that I can't get at him!



On 4/2/09 11:30 AM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:

> Gord,
> 
> I don't know if this would apply but I got so frustrated trying to finesse
> the bolts holding my old toe rail I resorted to cutting them off from the
> side (horizontally) with a thin cut off wheel mounted on my hand grinder.  I
> cut into the wood first and stopped when the sparks stopped.  Lots of smoke;
> a few squirts from a water bottle helps prevent forest fires.  Might even
> find a small, round saw blade that would do the trick in a little more
> civilized (less smoky) way.
> 
> That grinder is a great tool but, boy, is it scary to use.
> 
> Roger
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Gord, 
> 
> 
> 
> If there is room around the iron nail head, you might try using a plug
> cutter bit in a hand held drill motor.  This would be set to just shigh of
> the plank thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the nail shaft is exposed I have had much better luck prying them out
> with "vise grips" clamped onto the shank.  The beauty of vise grips is that
> they can more easily be re-clamped lower on the nail shaft as you work the
> nail free.  The rounded 'nose' of the vise grips works well to rotate to the
> adjacent wood and leverage out the nail.
> 
> 
> 
> Another idea if the nail head is missing and the shank is straight.  Locate
> a hardened steel roll pin with an inside diameter just larger than the
> outside diameter of the nail shank.  Use a grinding wheel to cut cutting
> teeth around the circumference of one end of the roll pin. (You can also
> file teeth in place with a new sharp triangular file).  Angle the teeth
> toward the direction you wish to rotate the roll pin.  Chuck the roll pin in
> a drill motor and carefully cut away the wood plank from around the nail. 
> After removing the plank then attempt to remove the remainer of the nail
> which is in the rib.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alberg Stuff: 
> 
> One issue in applying a teak veneer to a fibreglass deck suface arrises in
> the selection of fasteners.  If one uses traditional mechanical fasteners
> they often do not have enough material to hold into and eventually allow the
> teak veneer to "pump" which causes the threads of the fasteners to "saw"
> larger holes in the deck to create leaks into the coring or worse.  Since
> the teak veneer is not structural and just a pretty face, I would consider
> using adhesives to secure it to the fibreglass substrate.  No fasteners, no
> holes, no leaks, at least from that source!!
> 
> 
> 
> I always like to hear about "Touch Wood".
> 
> 
> 
> Michael 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS worked on TOUCH WOOD on the weekend - first order of business is to
> remove her garboard planks so as to be able to come at the notches in the
> keel for the new ribs.  What a pleasure to find all the long-familiar
> details of each plank...  What a horror to find that while the upper edge is
> riveted and easy to release, the lower edge was nailed on with square iron
> 'dumps'.  Some of them had vanished into red dust, but most are still solid
> and resisting.  Lay awake last night considering how to disturb them without
> destroying the planks, which I intend to use as a pattern for the new ones.
> Decided to carefully cut 'ramps' around each dump head with a small sharp
> chisel then tap a very sharp crow in and pull... Might work...
> 
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