[Public-List] Touch Wood Garboard Removal

[Roger L. Kingsland]

Thanks to you TW won't be abandon but seems a lot more boats are:
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/01/business/01boats.html?_r=1&em 



-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Gordon Laco
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 10:41 AM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Touch Wood Garboard Removal

Another friend wrote to me off list suggesting burning the boat then pulling
the fastenings out of the remains....

Luckily he is far enough away that I can't get at him!



On 4/2/09 11:30 AM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:

> Gord,
> 
> I don't know if this would apply but I got so frustrated trying to 
> finesse the bolts holding my old toe rail I resorted to cutting them 
> off from the side (horizontally) with a thin cut off wheel mounted on 
> my hand grinder.  I cut into the wood first and stopped when the 
> sparks stopped.  Lots of smoke; a few squirts from a water bottle 
> helps prevent forest fires.  Might even find a small, round saw blade 
> that would do the trick in a little more civilized (less smoky) way.
> 
> That grinder is a great tool but, boy, is it scary to use.
> 
> Roger
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Gord,
> 
> 
> 
> If there is room around the iron nail head, you might try using a plug 
> cutter bit in a hand held drill motor.  This would be set to just 
> shigh of the plank thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> Once the nail shaft is exposed I have had much better luck prying them 
> out with "vise grips" clamped onto the shank.  The beauty of vise 
> grips is that they can more easily be re-clamped lower on the nail 
> shaft as you work the nail free.  The rounded 'nose' of the vise grips 
> works well to rotate to the adjacent wood and leverage out the nail.
> 
> 
> 
> Another idea if the nail head is missing and the shank is straight.  
> Locate a hardened steel roll pin with an inside diameter just larger 
> than the outside diameter of the nail shank.  Use a grinding wheel to 
> cut cutting teeth around the circumference of one end of the roll pin. 
> (You can also file teeth in place with a new sharp triangular file).  
> Angle the teeth toward the direction you wish to rotate the roll pin.  
> Chuck the roll pin in a drill motor and carefully cut away the wood plank
from around the nail.
> After removing the plank then attempt to remove the remainer of the 
> nail which is in the rib.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alberg Stuff: 
> 
> One issue in applying a teak veneer to a fibreglass deck suface 
> arrises in the selection of fasteners.  If one uses traditional 
> mechanical fasteners they often do not have enough material to hold 
> into and eventually allow the teak veneer to "pump" which causes the
threads of the fasteners to "saw"
> larger holes in the deck to create leaks into the coring or worse.  
> Since the teak veneer is not structural and just a pretty face, I 
> would consider using adhesives to secure it to the fibreglass 
> substrate.  No fasteners, no holes, no leaks, at least from that source!!
> 
> 
> 
> I always like to hear about "Touch Wood".
> 
> 
> 
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS worked on TOUCH WOOD on the weekend - first order of business is to 
> remove her garboard planks so as to be able to come at the notches in 
> the keel for the new ribs.  What a pleasure to find all the 
> long-familiar details of each plank...  What a horror to find that 
> while the upper edge is riveted and easy to release, the lower edge 
> was nailed on with square iron 'dumps'.  Some of them had vanished 
> into red dust, but most are still solid and resisting.  Lay awake last 
> night considering how to disturb them without destroying the planks, which
I intend to use as a pattern for the new ones.
> Decided to carefully cut 'ramps' around each dump head with a small 
> sharp chisel then tap a very sharp crow in and pull... Might work...
> 
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