[Public-List] Bulk Head Repairs

[Chris Martin]

Do whatever is easier. A sharp chisel makes a lot less dust, but can take more time. A sawzall will do wonders, just keep it under control.




________________________________
From: "Rogers, Jim" <JRogers at scelectric.ca>
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 3:54:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Bulk Head Repairs

Do you use a grinder or a dry-wall bit to cut the existing tabbing? Would it be easier to grind the tabbing from the hull? This should make it easier to remove the old bulkhead.

Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Michael Taylor
Sent: August 5, 2009 1:30 PM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: [Public-List] Bulk Head Repairs

Jim,

The initial bond between the tabbing and hull is a mechanical one only so preparation is important to minimise the chances of compromising it.  Make sure there is no wax on the hull - use a dewaxing solvent.  Do this on the spots where you will overlay the tabbing. - do this before you grinding away the surface so you dont grind any wax or oils deeper into the surface.  After cleaning up use acetone on the hull to soften the surface  a little.  It can help activate a 'chemical bond'. Roughen up the bulkhead a little to get a good bond.  I have found this to work well.

On the other hand, you may consider epoxy for your repair as the bond is stronger than polysester resin.  I don't think cure time is an issue in this type of repair as all the layers you require in the tabbing can be put on in one.  Also, you don't need much expoxy for this type of repair so price is less of an issue.  Epoxy is generally twice the price of polyester resin.

cheerio

Mick
#231




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