[Public-List] Window gasketing

Tue Mar 10 01:59:20 PDT 2009

Thanks all for the good info,

I contacted a local maker of adhesive backed foam tape (closed cell, UV
resistant) who is dropping off some samples w/ spec sheets.  One question
about the butyl tape.  Does it flow sufficiently that it needs to be cleaned
from the Lexan and, if so, what is used to clean it?  I have had the
replacement Lexan for some time now so, for better or worse......

I installed the Lexan in the openings by injecting silicone in the gap
between edge of the Lexan and the window openings; put wide masking tape on
the outside to hold the Lexan in place and contain the outside of silicone,
masked the inside of the Lexan and the opening (easy because I could trim
the masking w/ a knife before installing the Lexan) and used a putty knife
to flush out the inside surface.  I thought it would more clever than it
turned out; ended up w/ some gaps (next time I won't use clear silicone,
makes it hard to see the gaps) but at least the panes are "suspended" inside
the openings and ready for the real install.  

Ed - the window in the hatch sounds pretty cool; have you any pictures?

Roger 148

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of edward
schroeder
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 4:57 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Window gasketing

Yes, pre-formed butyl tape can be used. On Emotional Rescue #303, we used
two types of Tremco butyl rubber glazing tape, Tremco 440 and Tremco
PolyShim Tape. Both worked excellent.

For polycarbonate (Lexan) sheets less than 36 inches in any dimension (lots
of thermal movement), such as the side windows, we used Tremco 440 on the
pane. We used both 1/16 inch and 1/8 inch thick x 1/2 inch wide. The inner
side had the 1/16 inch and the exterior had the 1/8 inch. The aluminum
removable inner frame squeezes the two tapes only sufficiently to provide
complete adhesion.

I also cut a pane in the sliding hatch cover to provide light. Because one
steps on this polycarbonate lite when furling sails, I used the PolyShim
tape under the plastic pane so that it would not be squeezed out when
stepped on. I rabbeted down into the veneered plywood only "half" way,
allowing room for the thickness of the plastic plus the un-squeezable tape.
To keep the pane from sliding sideways when shifting ones feet, I drilled
screw holes thru the plastic all around about 3 or 4 inches centers. Make
the screw holes slightly larger than the round head screws to allow for
sun-movement in the pane. Place washers under the screw heads and don't
screw down so tight that the pane cannot move from sun-movement.

The tape has un-squeezable shims within it. The pane was cut about 3/32 inch
smaller than the opening all around. Apply the tape flush with the outer
edge of the pane so that it supports the pane on the rabbeted wood edge.
After the pane with un-squeezable tape is applied and the screw/washers
inserted, apply silicone sealant between the edge of the pane and the wood,
flush with the upper side of the pane.

The silicone sealant can shear off from time to time from foot movement but
only the silicone needs to be repaired. The "non-leaking" pane has been in
place 5 years; the silicone repaired 2 times.

Ed Schroeder

--- On Mon, 3/9/09, Roger L. Kingsland <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:

From: Roger L. Kingsland <r.kingsland at ksba.com>
Subject: [Public-List] Window gasketing
To: "'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all'"
<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Date: Monday, March 9, 2009, 4:09 PM

I am thinking through the window install and wonder if anyone has thought of
or tried using compressible double sided tape as a gasketing material in
lieu of going thru the process of masking everything before squishing the
frame in a bed of caulk.  It seems, if the right tape could be found
(compressible as well as closed cell and UV resistant), it would  be a lot
easier to use the frame as a guide to cut the tape and affix the tape to the
back side of the frame.  Might it work?

Roger 148 

Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner
Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates

KSBA
________________________________

Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers

3441 Butler Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15201
N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'

412-252-1500 ext.101
412-779-5101 cell
412-252-1510 fax
r.kingsland at ksba.com
www.ksba.com

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of John Scott
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 2:27 PM
To: Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
Cc: John Scott
Subject: [Public-List] speaking of racing...

Hello All.

It looks like Wooshkeetaan will be racing in the Wednesday Miles River
series!  Our crew has sailed together for years on a Triton so we're pretty
comfortable with the A30.  One thing I need to do is fill out the PHRF
rating application.  I'm I too naive (and hopeful) in assuming that there's
not a significant variation in the A30 racing fleet (though there would be
some, i.e., Wooshkeetaan is '64 vintage).  Is anyone willing to share their
completed PHRF form with me to speed the process (and ensure correctness and
conformity)?

Thanks

John Scott
Wooshkeetaan #26

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