[Public-List] gate valves & ancient through-hull fittings & 5200: BEWARE

Randy Katz randy.katz50 at gmail.com
Wed Nov 25 08:41:15 PST 2009


Greetings from Seattle,

    Yes, I have to agree with Mike--  I ALSO can't believe any of the boats
would still have gate valves on them. It's imperative to ditch those things
ASAP and replace them with actual seacocks if you still have them. This is
one bit of advice, a bit expensive as it may be to remedy, that is simply a
must-do.

    Here's another related item to think about-- the original through-hull
fittings, if you still have them, are similar bad boys.  A couple of years
ago while replacing old fittings, I was startled to see that the old
though-hull fittings (as for the sink, for the original "pee-tray" drain in
the head, and so forth) were super cheap-o arrangements which included a
flared, short 1/2" tube with a washer around one end. To the inboard end of
that "through hull fitting" (washer & flare end on the outside of the hull
in order to avoid it being pulled into the boat) was attached the drain
tube.  Those fittings were super lightweight and corroded and crumbly and
illustrated perfectly yet another concept of saving money back then before
people knew better (or didn't suspect that the boats would continue to ply
the seas 45 years later!).

     Use of bronze mushroom-shaped though-hull fittings is the way to go. Be
sure to get the real thing that is made of the same metal as your seacock
(bronze is standard for both).  Mis-matched pieces can lead to accelerated
corrosion of both.  (Confession-- I learned about this by myself trying to
SAVE MONEY by picking up an undefined through-hull fitting at the used
marine parts store. Reading up later, as my anxiety level shot skyward, and
realizing my error, I was relieved to find that the 5200 had not completely
set. Thus,  my SECOND haul out (ouch!) enabled me to remove the mismatched
part and replace it with a compatible one.)

     Which leads to a final bit of advice with which some may argue: avoid
3-Ms 5200 for these parts.  The more forgiving, less concrete-like 4200 is
perfectly adequate and immensely more forgiving.  When they say the 5200 is
permanent, they mean it.  Take the easier and just as safe and effective
route with 4200.

    Enough---
Regards,

Randy Katz
#249
Seattle/Bellingham, WA.


Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:10:15 -0500
> From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>        <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit Drain Seacocks
> Message-ID: <BAY133-W20DE42B9D6798EB3085959B79C0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> I can't believe that there is still an Alberg with original gate valves!
> Mine failed many, many years ago and so have others I have spoken to. The
> worst failure is when they break off, as related by Bob. But a very common
> failure is that the internal shaft that operates the gate breaks. So you
> *think* you have a functioning valve, but you *really* don't and when you
> find out that the valve doesn't work, it is usually a time when you *really*
> need it to work.
>
>
>
> They should ALL be changed - especially the home-made ones that Whibty
> installed (engine intake, head intake, and fresh water intake).
>
>
> Mike Lehman
>
>
> ><((((?>`?.??.???`?.?><((((?>`?.??.???`?.?><((((?>
>
>



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