[Public-List] combing repairs

[Gordon Laco]

Hi again - 

I haven't seen how large your cracks are...but my suggestion would be don't
do it.  Teak is notorious for its long term incapapibility with any glue.
You will likely have more trouble in the future and will be dealing with two
cracks (the sides of the inlay) instead of just one.

I think the drift idea is the best way to stabilize things.

Spud - well the kind I am familiar with is the vertically dropped rod or
pipe dredgers use to hold themselves in position....

Gord


On 23/08/10 1:01 PM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gord, most appreciated.  Not that I want to go to the trouble but, do
> you think if I also routed out the cracks and added an approx. 1/8" inch
> deep x 3/8" "inlay" of teak that would eliminate or lessen the cracks?
> 
> PS - I will bet you know what a "spud" is?
> 
> Roger 
> 
> Hi Roger,
> 
> The vertical rods are called 'drifts' and are a good solution.   Anything
> you put into the cracks will eventually make the problem worse as the wood
> expands and contracts.  On the expansion side the wood will press against
> your filler (hard epoxy or soft caulk) and the crack will grow.  On the
> contraction side the wood will shrink back from the filler and the crack
> will be as apparent as before you put the filler in.
> 
> If you make yourself a drift of threaded rod, and slide it in while coated
> with epoxy, you will have about as strong a solution as possible.  The
> cracks that are already there will just become the character of the boat.
> In the old days they used to fill them by rubbing beeswax over them.  That
> will give you a flat surface to varnish, and when the wood expands it will
> find the wax soft and non-adhesive enough that it can squish it out however
> much it has to before the split is forced to grow.
> 
> Gord #426 Surprise
> 
> 
> On 23/08/10 12:10 PM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hi again,
>>  
>> I have cracks in my cockpit combing boards.  I have plugged all 45
>> holes, sanded and refinished the original boards.  I think the cracks
>> resulted from my poor installation that caused some shear stress that
>> I will fix on the reinstall.  My question is how to repair the cracks
>> (some about 16" long) so they don't reappear.  I thought of adding a
>> few butterfly joints but have also seen metal rods placed
>> perpendicular to the grain inside the wood.  Any suggestions?
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Roger 148
>>  
>> Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner
>> Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> KSBA 
>>   _____
>> 
>> Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers
>>  
>> 3441 Butler Street
>> Pittsburgh, PA 15201
>> N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'
>>  
>> 412-252-1500 ext.101
>> 412-779-5101 cell
>> 412-252-1510 fax
>>  <blocked::blocked::mailto:r.kingsland at ksba.com> r.kingsland at ksba.com
>> <blocked::blocked::http://www.ksba.com/> www.ksba.com
>>  
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Public-List mailing list
>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org



 1282583125.0