[Public-List] combing repairs

Mon Aug 23 10:26:15 PDT 2010

Thanks Gord,

Drift it is.

My sole knowledge of "spud": Years ago I had the pleasure of sailing on
Pride of Baltimore from Erie to Toronto through the Welland (sp?) Canal.
Some of the concrete piers we tied up to between locks were just a foot or
two above the water.  The crew used long timbers they called "spuds" mounted
vertically outboard of the fenders to hold her off these low piers (my guess
is fenders alone near the waterline would not work because they would be
below the fat part of the hull [below the "tumblehome"?]). Sounds like a
similar "vertical......to hold in position" but a different application.

Roger    

Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner
Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates

KSBA 
________________________________

Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers

3441 Butler Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15201
N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'

412-252-1500 ext.101 
412-779-5101 cell 
412-252-1510 fax
r.kingsland at ksba.com
www.ksba.com

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Gordon Laco
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 1:05 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] combing repairs

Hi again - 

I haven't seen how large your cracks are...but my suggestion would be don't
do it.  Teak is notorious for its long term incapapibility with any glue.
You will likely have more trouble in the future and will be dealing with two
cracks (the sides of the inlay) instead of just one.

I think the drift idea is the best way to stabilize things.

Spud - well the kind I am familiar with is the vertically dropped rod or
pipe dredgers use to hold themselves in position....

Gord

On 23/08/10 1:01 PM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gord, most appreciated.  Not that I want to go to the trouble 
> but, do you think if I also routed out the cracks and added an approx. 
> 1/8" inch deep x 3/8" "inlay" of teak that would eliminate or lessen the
cracks?
> 
> PS - I will bet you know what a "spud" is?
> 
> Roger
> 
> Hi Roger,
> 
> The vertical rods are called 'drifts' and are a good solution.   Anything
> you put into the cracks will eventually make the problem worse as the 
> wood expands and contracts.  On the expansion side the wood will press 
> against your filler (hard epoxy or soft caulk) and the crack will 
> grow.  On the contraction side the wood will shrink back from the 
> filler and the crack will be as apparent as before you put the filler in.
> 
> If you make yourself a drift of threaded rod, and slide it in while 
> coated with epoxy, you will have about as strong a solution as 
> possible.  The cracks that are already there will just become the
character of the boat.
> In the old days they used to fill them by rubbing beeswax over them.  
> That will give you a flat surface to varnish, and when the wood 
> expands it will find the wax soft and non-adhesive enough that it can 
> squish it out however much it has to before the split is forced to grow.
> 
> Gord #426 Surprise
> 
> 
> On 23/08/10 12:10 PM, "Roger L. Kingsland" <r.kingsland at ksba.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hi again,
>>  
>> I have cracks in my cockpit combing boards.  I have plugged all 45 
>> holes, sanded and refinished the original boards.  I think the cracks 
>> resulted from my poor installation that caused some shear stress that 
>> I will fix on the reinstall.  My question is how to repair the cracks 
>> (some about 16" long) so they don't reappear.  I thought of adding a 
>> few butterfly joints but have also seen metal rods placed 
>> perpendicular to the grain inside the wood.  Any suggestions?
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Roger 148
>>  
>> Roger Kingsland, Managing Partner
>> Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> KSBA 
>>   _____
>> 
>> Architects/Planners/InteriorDesigners/ProjectManagers
>>  
>> 3441 Butler Street
>> Pittsburgh, PA 15201
>> N 40° 27.8344'  W79° 57.9831'
>>  
>> 412-252-1500 ext.101
>> 412-779-5101 cell
>> 412-252-1510 fax
>>  <blocked::blocked::mailto:r.kingsland at ksba.com> r.kingsland at ksba.com 
>> <blocked::blocked::http://www.ksba.com/> www.ksba.com
>>  
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