[Public-List] Encapsulated iron keel

Peter Hurrey phurrey at tpg.com.au
Tue Apr 5 13:19:00 PDT 2011


The Top Hat 25 - google the top hat 25 site - has a water tank under the
cabin sole - I had a Mark 2 and it held about 80 litres and the mark 1's
hold about 200 litres. Never a problem with them. The Top Hat has a lead
keel though. Cheers

Regards,

Peter  Hurrey
Phone 07 54789788
Mobile 0429705067
Email: phurrey at tpg.com.au 

15 Lingard St Palmwoods Queensland Australia 4555	 


-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Joseph
Balderson
Sent: Tuesday, 5 April 2011 12:46 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Encapsulated iron keel

i did the same for 115 FREYA. Tore out the floor timbers and thoroughly
cleaned and sanded (24grit) of the inside of the hull including the top of
the keel. we poured loose resin down around the edges of the keel then
glassed from the water tank to stern post. across the top of the ballast
keel and up the hull 24" on both sides of course. Epoxy  and 17oz DBM. It
took 4 gal. of resin and 25 yds of cloth.
Here are photos. It really seemed to knit her together nicely. Has any one
put a water tank down beneath the cabin sole?
Joe B

On Mon, Apr 4, 2011 at 8:21 PM, Rachel <penokee at cheqnet.net> wrote:

>
> On Apr 4, 2011, at 3:59 PM, Peter Hurrey wrote:
>
> > Curious if anyone has had any problems with the iron rusting and
> expanding -
> > have not heard of that with the Alberg but it was a problem with the
> Rawson
> > 30, albeit it was iron and concrete. Cheers
>
> I remember reading one (maybe two?) accounts of where someone had had 
> rusting/expansion of the keel.  Obviously that's a small percentage of 
> total A-30's.
>
> One note is that the keel on some (most? all?) of the A-30s is not 
> completely encapsulated.  That is, a token amount of 
> resin/cloth-like-substance was laid over the top, but in many (most? 
> all?) cases it has long ago failed to be a complete encapsulation.  In 
> addition, the after end was shored up with wood and a cementitious 
> material that was then poured over with pure resin, which of course 
> cracked (probably when it was fairly new).  So there are numerous 
> routes for bilge water/oil/whatever to get to the iron pig.
>
> On my A-30 (#221) I dug out all of the "false bilge" material at the 
> after end, plus ground off the failed, thin layer of 'glass on the top 
> of the pig, then I prepped it all and glassed it in "but good" with 
> epoxy and biaxmat to encapsulate it.  The pig in my boat was clean, 
> non-rusty iron in very good condition (boat had been in fresh water 
> all its life and clearly lived with a dry bilge).  The "false bilge" 
> material, on the other hand, was gas/oil soaked and nasty, making the 
> boat smell yucky and causing it to be impossible to get it clean and 
> sweet smelling (until I removed it).  Once it was removed and 
> re-glassed, I gained a cleanable bilge and a small sump for the bilge
pump, so it was a win-win for me.
>
> The pig itself is set into a "bed" of the same cementitious material 
> as was used to partially fill the "false" bilge.
>
> Of course I can't speak for all A-30's, but that's how mine was, and I 
> have read a number of other accounts that were similar (plus seen a 
> few on other A-30's I looked at).  I've only looked at the "stick built
interior"
> versions, but if I remember correctly, Don, who rebuilt his "liner" 
> version (but without a liner) might have had a similar bilge.  Don't 
> quote me on that last though (we did compare notes so I could go back 
> and look if necessary).
>
> Rachel
> ex-#221
>
>
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