[Public-List] Diesel Help

Mon Apr 11 13:24:20 PDT 2011

Thought I would chime in on this topic. My experience has been that RPM's are necessary for these Volvo's to start, unless you use a starting fluid, and that is not a recommended method for everyday starting. Use the 'cold start lever' and engage the decompression levers. Engage the starter get the flywheel spinning then drop the decompression levers. I use the 'twenty minute rule'. Idle the engine for a few minutes before running at cruising RPM's, as Capt. Bill suggests, for a minimum of 15 minutes. Throttle to idle RPM's for a few minutes before shutting down.
Good fuel and fuel filters along with CLEAN air for the Volvo to breathe and you and your engine will be happy for a long time.

Randy #283

-----Original Message-----
From: spiresac <spiresac at yahoo.com>
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Mon, Apr 11, 2011 11:52 am
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Diesel Help

I ran an old worn out Yanmar for years and I also run some other old diesels.  
On the yanmar I would release the compression release, start spinning the engine 
with the starter, hit it with a very, very brief hit of starting fluid and close 
the compression release.  I find this is easy on the engine rings, starter and 
me.  Be careful if you crank the starter for long because the injector is 
spraying fuel and can cause a hydraulic lock in the engine.  WD 40 can also be 
used to start the engine.  You might also check for a dead cell on the batteries 
because this can make bad worse.  The other thing I have seen is that a lot of 
old sail boat engines don't get run hard enough and long enough to keep them 
healthy.  If you have not burned out the fuel lately or changed the filters 
start with those.  Diesels like to run close to max (80 percent or so) of max 
rpm for hours at a time.  I have seen this restore compression and improve 
starting in many boat engines.  Diesels do not like
  to idle or run at partial throttle for long or be run for short periods of 
time like most small boat engines are run. This Model yanmar is good for over 
20,000 hrs and they run best when run hard and often.   My guess is that you can 
get some more life out of this engine.

Capt. Bill
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan Adams <laughing_gull at verizon.net>
Sender: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.orgDate: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 10:19:51 
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>; Alberg 30 Member List<member-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Subject: [Public-List] Diesel Help

Well I finally have a question that I really need an answer to - versus one 
where I am looking for an opinion!

I have a Yanmar 2GMF. It is between 20 and 25 years old, and for the last couple 

of years has been having a hard time starting - I might have to crank the engine 

for a number of extended periods - minutes. This spring, I had Bayshore Marine 
look at the engine, and they checked injectors and performed a compression test. 

The injectors are fine, and the engine once started runs well. If it is warm, it 

starts immediately no problem. Once running, it can hit its top revs (~4k+) 
under no load - which indicates that the fuel pump / timing is good.

The result of this visit - other than lightening my wallet - was that the lack 
of compression was creating the problem. It is meant to be 469lbs and is 400 in 
#1 and 415 in #2. The only way to deal with this is to check either the head or 
the piston rings. Either way it is an expensive proposition. can I get it to 
last the season? It is only a matter of time before I burn out the starter motor 

and / or drain my batteries.

The mechanic recommended:

1. release the compression on the cylinders, and crank the engine to warm things 

up, and then start

2. While doing this close the water intake valve, as the  muffler has no exhaust 

to speak of when you are cranking and will fill up with water which could back 
into the engine.

3. He recommended putting CRC into the air intake to help seal the pistons. He 
did not recommend starting fluids as these damaged seals. Someone else has 
recommended putting in heavier oil.

Any advice from the crowd? If I send the engine to Bayshore, I essentially get a 

new engine, as they will warrenty it, and totally overhaul it while it is out. 
However, this is sure to seriously impact the boat fund. Any recommendations for 

a good mechanic that is not a crack head? The reason I went back to Bayshore was 

I kept running into crack head mechanics.

Jonathan
197
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