[Public-List] Diesel Help

[jimcherry at sympatico.ca]

I was kind of waiting to see if anyone replied to Roger's tongue-in-cheek suggestion.  My Volvo seems to like taking its sweet bloody time getting started on cold mornings too.
 
Jim, 639

 
> From: r.kingsland at ksba.com
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 13:40:31 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Diesel Help
> 
> Slightly tongue-in-cheek; but, how about an electric dip stick and/or a 150W
> light bulb underneath to keep the old girl warm at the dock.
> 
> Roger 148
> 
> PS - had 10 people helping on GO148 last week and made good progress toward
> spring launch; Wife Jeanne, "Boot Stripe", Kingsland discovered and fixed
> substantial misalignment of boot stripe aft; discovered and fixed exposed
> wood at bottom of rudder; drilled hole for FLS sonar; made all kinds of
> nunesessary tents to try to keep the rain out. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jonathan Adams
> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 1:20 PM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org; Alberg 30 Member List
> Subject: [Public-List] Diesel Help
> 
> Well I finally have a question that I really need an answer to - versus one 
> where I am looking for an opinion!
> 
> I have a Yanmar 2GMF. It is between 20 and 25 years old, and for the last
> couple 
> of years has been having a hard time starting - I might have to crank the
> engine 
> for a number of extended periods - minutes. This spring, I had Bayshore
> Marine 
> look at the engine, and they checked injectors and performed a compression
> test. 
> The injectors are fine, and the engine once started runs well. If it is
> warm, it 
> starts immediately no problem. Once running, it can hit its top revs (~4k+) 
> under no load - which indicates that the fuel pump / timing is good.
> 
> The result of this visit - other than lightening my wallet - was that the
> lack 
> of compression was creating the problem. It is meant to be 469lbs and is 400
> in 
> #1 and 415 in #2. The only way to deal with this is to check either the head
> or 
> the piston rings. Either way it is an expensive proposition. can I get it to
> 
> last the season? It is only a matter of time before I burn out the starter
> motor 
> and / or drain my batteries.
> 
> The mechanic recommended:
> 
> 1. release the compression on the cylinders, and crank the engine to warm
> things 
> up, and then start
> 
> 2. While doing this close the water intake valve, as the muffler has no
> exhaust 
> to speak of when you are cranking and will fill up with water which could
> back 
> into the engine.
> 
> 3. He recommended putting CRC into the air intake to help seal the pistons.
> He 
> did not recommend starting fluids as these damaged seals. Someone else has 
> recommended putting in heavier oil.
> 
> Any advice from the crowd? If I send the engine to Bayshore, I essentially
> get a 
> new engine, as they will warrenty it, and totally overhaul it while it is
> out. 
> However, this is sure to seriously impact the boat fund. Any recommendations
> for 
> a good mechanic that is not a crack head? The reason I went back to Bayshore
> was 
> I kept running into crack head mechanics.
> 
> Jonathan
> 197
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