[Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck hardware)

[Roger L. Kingsland]

Thanks Jim,

If I did my calculations correctly (always suspect), the compression tests
done on my deck sample confirm the compressive strength is greater than the
tensile (or at least "clamp") strength of the bolts.  Therefore, twist away
and get yourself one of those good old friction connections that stay put.  

I guess Gord's point was that the epoxy sleeve technique was also necessary
to keep water out, something I thought could be accomplished by slightly
beveling the top of the hole and putting an appropriately sized "O" ring
around the bolt shaft and under the fitting base so it gets compressed and
seals the top of the hole in the deck.  

I thought it logical to have some flexible compressed stuff at the only
place where water could get in.  Unfortunately, what in my mind is not only
logical but elegant, occasionally dosen't pass the beta test.  What to do
now?  Whatever I do, I am going to buy one of those non invasive moisture
meters (http://www.instrumart.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=17799) and keep
checking for moisture around my deck fittings; heck, everywhere.

Roger 148     

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jim Davis
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 3:22 PM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck hardware)

When this topic comes up it is important to remember what you have for a
core.  If it is balsa or foam opening the core at each hole and filling with
thickened epoxy is wise and some what easy.  You can use a bent nail to tear
out enough balsa/foam between the deck and liner to make a good, solid epoxy
column.  The principle advantage to doing this is to prevent the core from
being crushed and weakening the fitting's attachment.  That it reduces the
chance of water intrusion is an additional benefit.

With masonite, or other hardwood, it really isn't necessary as long as the
holes are sealed and the hardware is properly bedded.  For plywood I would
be inclined to treat it as balsa, or at least fill the holes with slightly
thinned slow cure epoxy and redrill after it cooks.  The crush resistance of
the older (masonite) deck is high enough to not be an area of concern.  The
only technique I can think of is to grossly over bore the holes from the top
and not penetrate the inner liner.  Then fill the hole and re drill after
the epoxy has cured.  I can think of a lot of other projects that are higher
on the pecking order.

Jim Davis
S/V Isa Lei
CT 35

Although a soldier by profession, I have never felt any sort of fondness for
war, and I have never advocated it, except as a means of peace.
Ulysses S. Grant


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