[Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck hardware)

[Jeffrey]

On Wed, Jan 19, 2011 at 4:32 PM, Roger L. Kingsland <r.kingsland at ksba.com>wrote:

> Thanks Jim,
>
> If I did my calculations correctly (always suspect), the compression tests
> done on my deck sample confirm the compressive strength is greater than the
> tensile (or at least "clamp") strength of the bolts.  Therefore, twist away
> and get yourself one of those good old friction connections that stay put.
>
> I guess Gord's point was that the epoxy sleeve technique was also necessary
> to keep water out, something I thought could be accomplished by slightly
> beveling the top of the hole and putting an appropriately sized "O" ring
> around the bolt shaft and under the fitting base so it gets compressed and
> seals the top of the hole in the deck.
>
> I thought it logical to have some flexible compressed stuff at the only
> place where water could get in.  Unfortunately, what in my mind is not only
> logical but elegant, occasionally dosen't pass the beta test.  What to do
> now?  Whatever I do, I am going to buy one of those non invasive moisture
> meters (http://www.instrumart.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=17799) and keep
> checking for moisture around my deck fittings; heck, everywhere.
>
> Roger 148
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-bounces at lists.alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jim Davis
> Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 3:22 PM
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] foredeck compression, (and bedding deck
> hardware)
>
> When this topic comes up it is important to remember what you have for a
> core.  If it is balsa or foam opening the core at each hole and filling
> with
> thickened epoxy is wise and some what easy.  You can use a bent nail to
> tear
> out enough balsa/foam between the deck and liner to make a good, solid
> epoxy
> column.  The principle advantage to doing this is to prevent the core from
> being crushed and weakening the fitting's attachment.  That it reduces the
> chance of water intrusion is an additional benefit.
>
> With masonite, or other hardwood, it really isn't necessary as long as the
> holes are sealed and the hardware is properly bedded.  For plywood I would
> be inclined to treat it as balsa, or at least fill the holes with slightly
> thinned slow cure epoxy and redrill after it cooks.  The crush resistance
> of
> the older (masonite) deck is high enough to not be an area of concern.  The
> only technique I can think of is to grossly over bore the holes from the
> top
> and not penetrate the inner liner.  Then fill the hole and re drill after
> the epoxy has cured.  I can think of a lot of other projects that are
> higher
> on the pecking order.
>
> Jim Davis
> S/V Isa Lei
> CT 35
>
> Although a soldier by profession, I have never felt any sort of fondness
> for
> war, and I have never advocated it, except as a means of peace.
> Ulysses S. Grant
>
>
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-- 
Jeffrey Fongemie

 1295473428.0