[Public-List] Cockpit Floor Inspection Plate

vmarmei vmarmei at axis-design.org
Sat Apr 7 09:18:19 PDT 2012 

Hi Jonathan....Thanks for your note....I am still in the process of 
studying the situation and planing my day...nothing definite yet.

In what condition is the cover of you cover plate.?? You mentioned 
that you were removing same with a mallet and a screwdriver. Me think 
that the round holes for the key will be buggered up to a degree.
How far ahead of the Rudder casting did you cut the hole for this new 
hatch you have ?? The rudder post is at an angle and the Stuffing box 
is way down there maybe 15/20 inches toward the bow ??
Is this new Hatch of yours a round or a rectangular one??
What size ??
Thanks for your new answer....Have a Good Easter.
Villo @ A-30-AHTI




At 07:35 PM 26/03/2012, you wrote:
>I have the very item. However there is no backing washer for it or 
>wrench. I just tapped it around with a screwdriver and mallet. I 
>took mine out to replace through fittings and replaced it with a 
>watertight plastic hatch that is large enough to be useful. i.e. get 
>two hands in there. It also gives me access to the rear of the 
>engine, stuffing box etc. I don't quite understand why anyone would 
>want to put one of these infernal devices back into an Alberg. My 
>conclusion is that they are only there to let the light in!. However 
>it is clearly only my opinion and I do, of course, respect yours. 
>That being said, make me an offer and if accepted you will need to 
>be prepared to pay shipping. I am in Victoria, British Columbia. 
>Regards to all. Jonathan Whittingham "EMMY"
>
>-----Original Message----- From: vmarmei
>Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 8:40 AM
>To: fongemie at gmail.com ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit Floor Inspection Plate
>
>
>Hello my A-30 brothers and sisters
>Speaking about Rudder Post Stuffing boxes....
>Does any one have for sale an original used /new Brass Plated Cockpit
>round (6 inch Dia.) Inspection Floor Plate complete with the screw in
>frame and back up large washer. It has to be the same as supplied by
>Whitby with same two holes on top of the lid... that fit the front
>hatch cover wrench.
>Many Thanks
>Villo Marmei
>A-30 618/641
>
>At 09:10 AM 26/03/2012, you wrote:
>>Does anyone know of solutions to this issue with pre-liner boats?  Anyone
>>successfully add a stuffing box to the tube? But then you's never be able
>>to get at it w/o a hatch in the cockpit floor correct?
>>
>>I hope to get into recoring my cockpit floor soon.
>>
>>-Jeff
>>
>>On Mon, Mar 26, 2012 at 8:16 AM, Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > The older boats do not have a stuffing box on the rudder. 
>> Instead the > tube
>> > is continuous from the hull to the underside of the cockpit. 
>> When > motoring,
>> > or when the boat is sailing with the stern down, the water gushes up the
>> > tube and wets the underside of the cockpit sole. Over time this causes
>> > delamination of the cockpit sole.
>> >
>> > -----Original Message----- From: Glennb
>> > Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2012 3:09 AM
>> >
>> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit core thickness in early boats?
>> >
>> > when I bought Dolce six years ago, the rudder tube mounted in 
>> the hull > was
>> > packed with old grey putty around the shaft tube inside the hull.  The
>> > material had hardened over the years and was cracked and leaking a small
>> > but steady dribble that ran forward down  into the bilge.
>> >
>> > if your rudder tube is leaking because of failure of this old putty
>> > material, you will probably be able to observe a greenish stain 
>> coming > from
>> > the bronze tube running foward on the inside of the hull, where 
>> the > water
>> > dribbles into the bilge. If so,  you can gouge out all this old material
>> > and fiberglass the tube in place, once you open up the cockpit floor.
>> >
>> > alternatively, the tube itself uses an packing gland to seal water from
>> > entering the boat from around the rudder shaft.  takeoff the nut 
>> on top > of
>> > the tube and renew the square packing material, hen tighten the nut back
>> > down significantly hard to stop water.  in this instance, 
>> watermcomes > out
>> > of the top of the nut., whereas if the tube leaks at the base, 
>> water > comes
>> > in at the hull joint.
>> >
>> > I put an inspection plate in the cockpit floor over my rudder tube, so > I
>> > can access this thing for maintenance every few years.
>> > Glenn P.
>> > dolce 318
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPad
>> >
>> > On Mar 24, 2012, at 6:11 AM, Joseph Balderson <joebinc at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >  I recall 7/16ths marine ply glued in with West. I ground the 
>> entire > inside
>> >> of the hull because my rebuild is rather extensive. So in the 
>> area of >> the
>> >> rudder port (where it comes through the hull on the inside) 
>> I >> strenghtened
>> >> the rudder port/ hull attachtment by adding biaxial cloth cut 
>> to fit >> and
>> >> again placed with west epoxy. Where is the water coming in?
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Mar 23, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>  Hi Joseph,
>> >>>
>> >>> My boat #116 came just after yours, so ours are very likely similar.
>> >>>
>> >>> Do you remember the thickness of the plywood you used?  I don't
>> >>> understand
>> >>> what you mean "retab in the rudder port"?? What will I find for the
>> >>> rudder
>> >>> shaft opening when I get in there?? Any ways to stop water 
>> intrusion >>> from
>> >>> the rudder port??
>> >>>
>> >>> -Jeff
>> >>>
>> >>> On Fri, Mar 23, 2012 at 7:38 AM, Joseph Balderson <joebinc at gmail.com>
>> >>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>  That's right. I have #115. When I rebuilt my cockpit Masonite was the
>> >>>> wet
>> >>>> laminate.  I set the router depth to just less than the cockpit
>> >>>>
>> >>> thickness,
>> >>>
>> >>>> about 3/8ths+ or so and hogged out all but the bottom side fiberglass
>> >>>> laminate. i then fit and glued in a marine ply filler laminate and
>> >>>>
>> >>> glassed
>> >>>
>> >>>> over all. But............ I took the opportunity to frame in a flush
>> >>>>
>> >>> access
>> >>>
>> >>>> hatch in the forward end of the cockpit (about 20"w x 30"l) 
>> and to >>>> retab
>> >>>>
>> >>> in
>> >>>
>> >>>> the rudder port while all was open.
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 7:32 AM, Jeffrey 
>> <alberg30nh at gmail.com> >>>> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>  The cockpit floor of #116 is soft and needs a new core. 
>> Anyone know >>>> the
>> >>>>> thickness of the core? In the liner boats, I've read 3/8 or 1/2.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Also, has anyone done this in a pre-liner boat? I've read the core
>> >>>>>
>> >>>> consists
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> of the bottom fiberglass, masonite, a heavy layer of fiberglass,
>> >>>>>
>> >>>> another
>> >>>
>> >>>> layer of masonite, then the top fiberglass skin. Sound right?
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> For those who have done this, did you use one layer of 
>> core >>>>> material,
>> >>>>>
>> >>>> or
>> >>>
>> >>>> two layers as in the original construction??
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> -jeff
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Jeff Fongemie
>> >>>>> #116 Seagrass
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>>http://picasaweb.google.com/**fongemie<http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie>
>> >>>>> ______________________________**_________________
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>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>  ______________________________**_________________
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>> >>>>
>> >>>> --
>> >>>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>><http://lists.alberg30.org/**listinfo.cgi/public-list-**alberg30.org<http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org>
>> >>>> >
>> >>>>
>> >>>>  ______________________________**_________________
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>>
>>
>>--
>>Jeffrey Fongemie
>>_______________________________________________
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>_______________________________________________
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