[Public-List] Keel bolts

Gordon Laco mainstay at csolve.net
Wed Apr 11 05:52:47 PDT 2012


Ah!


On 11/04/12 8:51 AM, "Bill Newman" <newman423 at rogers.com> wrote:

> Brian,
> 
> I expect that the bolts that you see may have been used to hoist the ballast
> into place.
> 
> Bill Newman
> Marion Rose 111
> #233
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org>
> To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 5:03 PM
> Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2320, Issue 2
> 
> 
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>> ======================================================
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>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>   1. Re: Pu     keel bolt question (Kris Coward)
>> 
>> 
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 17:03:46 -0400
>> From: Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>
>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Pu     keel bolt question
>> Message-ID: <20120410210346.GL2358 at melon.org>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> 
>> 
>> Nuts that were dropped down there once upon a time?
>> 
>> -K
>> 
>> On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 04:48:14PM -0400, brian curry wrote:
>>> 
>>> Got my answer on keel bolts, we have internal ballast.  But I think I am
>>> seeing something that looks like the head of a bolt (actually a couple of
>>> them) in the bilge under the cabin sole.  Could that be?
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
>>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 05:54:37 -0700
>>>> 
>>>> Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
>>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> 
>>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>>>> 
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>>>> public-list-owner at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> 
>>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>>> than "Re: Contents of Public-List digest..."
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
>>>> ======================================================
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>> 
>>>> 1. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (George Dinwiddie)
>>>> 2. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (Mike Lehman)
>>>> 3. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Mike Lehman)
>>>> 4. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 1
>>>> Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 06:16:06 -0400
>>>> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
>>>> Message-ID: <4F7EC266.80900 at alberg30.org>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>>> 
>>>> On 4/5/12 10:50 PM, brian curry wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats
>>>>> have keel bolts?
>>>> 
>>>> No.
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
>>>> I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>>>> So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
>>>> So many I love were not yet born. also see:
>>>> 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 2
>>>> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 06:56:27 -0400
>>>> From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
>>>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
>>>> Message-ID: <BAY170-DS48AB97C1254828120DF17EB7300 at phx.gbl>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>>>> reply-type=original
>>>> 
>>>> Brian
>>>> 
>>>> The A30 has internal ballast which does not require keel bolts
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: brian curry
>>>> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:50 PM
>>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> Subject: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats have
>>>> keel bolts?
>>>> 
>>>> Brian Curry
>>>> Makai #151
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>> Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
>>>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 17:56:21 -0700
>>>>> 
>>>>> Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
>>>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
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>>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>>>>> 
>>>>> Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
>>>>> ======================================================
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 1. Stock bow water tank circa #329ish (Len Payne)
>>>>> 2. North Channel - July? (Len Payne)
>>>>> 3. Re: Sealing cockpit coamings (George Dinwiddie)
>>>>> 4. Re: North Channel - July? (Gordon Laco)
>>>>> 5. Re: Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs Beneteau
>>>>> (Stephen Gwyn)
>>>>> 6. Battle of the Bolt (Jeffrey)
>>>>> 7. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Michael Grosh)
>>>>> 8. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 1
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:00:29 -0600
>>>>> From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
>>>>> To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: [Public-List] Stock bow water tank circa #329ish
>>>>> Message-ID: <E2A861147E064F749309FF741EF70E61 at sinks3244d14f9>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi, Jim,
>>>>> According to the stock drawings of the Alberg 30, that is a factory
>>>>> tank
>>>>> that holds 30 gallons.
>>>>> The top of the tank is right at the waterline of the boat, with the
>>>>> "Vee"
>>>>> seat and small drawer just above the water tank.
>>>>> Hope that helps.
>>>>> Len
>>>>> (still up for the circumnavigation? I'm headed to Charlevoix next
>>>>> week to
>>>>> finish the work on "Myranda", my A-35)
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 2
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:05:57 -0600
>>>>> From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
>>>>> To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
>>>>> Message-ID: <5043D4099B2148D4B8737C01E5F71258 at sinks3244d14f9>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>>>> 
>>>>> John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
>>>>> 
>>>>> "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then
>>>>> ....
>>>>> and ready for a decent sail.
>>>>> Len
>>>>> "Myranda" A-35 #192
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 3
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 16:11:20 -0400
>>>>> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
>>>>> To: Bill Newman <newman423 at sympatico.ca>, Alberg 30 Public List --
>>>>> open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Sealing cockpit coamings
>>>>> Message-ID: <F01C91BD-6984-4B69-9A98-14DD905C63ED at alberg30.org>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Calypso, #543, I cleaned off all the old Dolfenite and used
>>>>> 2"x1/16" (I
>>>>> think, might have been 1/8") neoprene gasket along the top of the
>>>>> Fiberglas behind the coaming. After reassembly, I put a fillet of
>>>>> caulk
>>>>> along this seam, also.
>>>>> 
>>>>> George
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are
>>>>> due to
>>>>> that.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Apr 5, 2012, at 13:58, "Bill Newman" <newman423 at rogers.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I have removed the cockpit coamings for refinishing on #233 for the
>>>>>> third time since I bought it in 1998. I have been thinking about
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> best way to seal them to prevent water on deck from running onto
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> seats. The coamings are of the old type with a piece of teak
>>>>>> quarter
>>>>>> round on the outboard side. I am thinking that this time I will
>>>>>> just
>>>>>> seal the quarter round to the coamings and seal the bottom of the
>>>>>> quarter round to the deck. I don't believe any sealant below this
>>>>>> level
>>>>>> will to much good and may trap water that does get past the seal
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> cause rot. I will also want to remove them again in a few years so
>>>>>> 5200
>>>>>> probably isn't a good idea.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Any comments from anyone who has done this will be appreciated.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Bill Newman
>>>>>> Marion Rose III, #233
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 4
>>>>> Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 16:39:09 -0400
>>>>> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
>>>>> Message-ID: <CBA37B2D.7FD7%mainstay at csolve.net>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hello Gents - if you make it to Southern Georgian Bay please be our
>>>>> guests... Google Midland Bay Sailing Club.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Gord #426 Surprise
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 05/04/12 4:05 PM, "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by
>>>>>> then
>>>>>> .... and
>>>>>> ready for a decent sail.
>>>>>> Len
>>>>>> "Myranda" A-35 #192
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 5
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:40:09 -0700
>>>>> From: Stephen Gwyn <stephen.gwyn at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
>>>>> To: "public-list at lists.alberg30.org" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs
>>>>> Beneteau
>>>>> Message-ID: <4F7E1139.2060205 at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'm not sure we would have made it upwind in an Alberg:
>>>>> it was blowing pretty hard. But we might have, slowly.
>>>>> And we would have been safer and happier. This was a Beneteau 29.
>>>>> You really had to keep a hand ready to dump the main to avoid
>>>>> broaching. And there were no grab handles down below so the
>>>>> boat lurched, you tended to go flying. I've never been seasick
>>>>> on an Alberg (except sometimes, when I'm down below). I was
>>>>> queasy on this boat, 3 days out of 4. The other day was spent
>>>>> in a harbour.
>>>>> 
>>>>> The flat bottom sections meant that if there was even
>>>>> 2 inches of chop at the dock, you got kept up all night
>>>>> with wave slap.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On the plus side, the galley was much, much better than the
>>>>> spartan accommodations on the A30. The amount of back strain
>>>>> I've had cooking in the A30 galley is considerable.
>>>>> 
>>>>> SG
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 6
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:51:04 -0400
>>>>> From: Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
>>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>>> Message-ID:
>>>>> <CAMRY+94G0etgXWWbh-O5FdEaakwo84SREYT4X2SCyYCnzqzK=Q at mail.gmail.com>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>>>>> 
>>>>> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>>>>> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>>>>> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
>>>>> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>>>>> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>>>>> out
>>>>> allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
>>>>> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
>>>>> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
>>>>> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>>>>> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
>>>>> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>>>>> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>>>>> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
>>>>> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>>>>> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
>>>>> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>>>>> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
>>>>> remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>>>>> 
>>>>> See:
>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0
>>>>> ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>> 
>>>>> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
>>>>> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>>>>> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
>>>>> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and
>>>>> cut
>>>>> some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
>>>>> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>>>>> 
>>>>> See:
>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0
>>>>> ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>> 
>>>>> Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
>>>>> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>>>>> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
>>>>> like tef-gel??
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 7
>>>>> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:13:50 -0400
>>>>> From: Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com>
>>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>>> Message-ID:
>>>>> <CAO99GuEErE7Cik3WKV22cNAHYm6DzpcRwE2WzSQGkyzhBwCK_w at mail.gmail.com>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>>>>> 
>>>>> Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads
>>>>> holding
>>>>> the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the
>>>>> product,
>>>>> but
>>>>> they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
>>>>> tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
>>>>> I never seize everything on reinstall.
>>>>> MichaelGrosh
>>>>> #220
>>>>> On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>>>>>> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>>>>>> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
>>>>>> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>>>>>> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>>>>>> out
>>>>>> allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a
>>>>>> couple
>>>>>> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't
>>>>>> that
>>>>>> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
>>>>>> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>>>>>> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with
>>>>>> my
>>>>>> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>>>>>> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>>>>>> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>>>>>> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>>>>>> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still
>>>>>> cannot
>>>>>> remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> See:
>>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS
>>>>>> 0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the
>>>>>> threads.
>>>>>> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>>>>>> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my
>>>>>> tiller
>>>>>> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and
>>>>>> cut
>>>>>> some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze?
>>>>>> I'm
>>>>>> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> See:
>>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS
>>>>>> 0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for
>>>>>> this??
>>>>>> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>>>>>> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion
>>>>>> substance
>>>>>> like tef-gel??
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> Message: 8
>>>>> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 00:56:21 +0000 (UTC)
>>>>> From: crufone at comcast.net
>>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>>> Message-ID:
>>>>> <1356577774.943589.1333673781474.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail
>>>>> .comcast.net>
>>>>> 
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>>> 
>>>>> The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size
>>>>> as
>>>>> the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on
>>>>> a
>>>>> boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work
>>>>> to
>>>>> prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes
>>>>> problems
>>>>> when trying to disassemble fittings.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
>>>>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>>> 
>>>>> Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads
>>>>> holding
>>>>> the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the
>>>>> product,
>>>>> but
>>>>> they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
>>>>> tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
>>>>> I never seize everything on reinstall.
>>>>> MichaelGrosh
>>>>> #220
>>>>> On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>>>>>> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>>>>>> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
>>>>>> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>>>>>> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>>>>>> out
>>>>>> allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a
>>>>>> couple
>>>>>> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't
>>>>>> that
>>>>>> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I
>>>>>> drilled
>>>>>> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>>>>>> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with
>>>>>> my
>>>>>> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>>>>>> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>>>>>> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>>>>>> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>>>>>> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still
>>>>>> cannot
>>>>>> remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> See:
>>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS
>>>>>> 0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the
>>>>>> threads.
>>>>>> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>>>>>> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my
>>>>>> tiller
>>>>>> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and
>>>>>> cut
>>>>>> some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze?
>>>>>> I'm
>>>>>> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> See:
>>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS
>>>>>> 0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for
>>>>>> this??
>>>>>> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>>>>>> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion
>>>>>> substance
>>>>>> like tef-gel??
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>> Please support them.
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>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
>>>>> ********************************************
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>> Please support them.
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 3
>>>> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 07:03:28 -0400
>>>> From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
>>>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>> Message-ID: <BAY170-DS303A63AC97FCE1AC5FBE74B7300 at phx.gbl>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>>>> reply-type=original
>>>> 
>>>> Jeff
>>>> 
>>>> I believe that in this application a SS bolt would be fine. You should
>>>> not
>>>> have SS corrosion like you would if the bolt were underwater, like the
>>>> rudder shoe bolt.
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Jeffrey
>>>> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 6:51 PM
>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>> Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>> 
>>>> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>>>> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>>>> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
>>>> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>>>> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
>>>> allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>>>> 
>>>> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
>>>> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
>>>> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
>>>> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>>>> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>>>> 
>>>> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
>>>> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>>>> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>>>> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
>>>> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>>>> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
>>>> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>>>> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
>>>> remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>>>> 
>>>> See:
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0f
>>>> fzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>> 
>>>> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
>>>> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>>>> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
>>>> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
>>>> some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
>>>> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>>>> 
>>>> See:
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0f
>>>> fzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>> 
>>>> Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
>>>> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>>>> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
>>>> like tef-gel??
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>> Please support them.
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> Message: 4
>>>> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 12:54:35 +0000 (UTC)
>>>> From: crufone at comcast.net
>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>> Message-ID:
>>>> <1072821579.955470.1333716875689.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.
>>>> comcast.net>
>>>> 
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>>> 
>>>> Yes
>>>> 
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
>>>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 9:28:53 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>> 
>>>> Heli coil did cross my mind, except for the mixing of metals. Wouldn't
>>>> all
>>>> bronze be better?
>>>> On Apr 5, 2012 8:56 PM, <crufone at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size
>>>>> as
>>>>> the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on
>>>>> a
>>>>> boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work
>>>>> to
>>>>> prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes
>>>>> problems
>>>>> when trying to disassemble fittings.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
>>>>> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>>>>> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>>>>> 
>>>>> Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads
>>>>> holding
>>>>> the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the
>>>>> product, but
>>>>> they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
>>>>> tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
>>>>> I never seize everything on reinstall.
>>>>> MichaelGrosh
>>>>> #220
>>>>> On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>>>>>> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>>>>>> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
>>>>>> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>>>>>> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>>>>>> out
>>>>>> allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a
>>>>>> couple
>>>>>> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't
>>>>>> that
>>>>>> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I
>>>>>> drilled
>>>>>> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>>>>>> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with
>>>>>> my
>>>>>> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>>>>>> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>>>>>> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>>>>>> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>>>>>> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still
>>>>>> cannot
>>>>>> remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> See:
>>>>>> 
>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0
>>>>> ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the 
>>>>>> threads.
>>>>>> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>>>>>> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my 
>>>>>> tiller
>>>>>> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and 
>>>>>> cut
>>>>>> some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze? 
>>>>>> I'm
>>>>>> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> See:
>>>>>> 
>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0
>>>>> ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for 
>>>>>> this??
>>>>>> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>>>>>> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion 
>>>>>> substance
>>>>>> like tef-gel??
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>>> Please support them.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>> Please support them.
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>>> Please support them.
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Public-List mailing list
>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
>>>> ********************************************
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> These businesses support your Association:
>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>>> Please support them.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Public-List mailing list
>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> 
>> -- 
>> Kris Coward http://unripe.melon.org/
>> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
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>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> 
>> 
>> End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2320, Issue 2
>> ******************************************** 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
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