[Public-List] Keel bolts
Bill Newman
newman423 at rogers.com
Wed Apr 11 05:51:52 PDT 2012
Brian,
I expect that the bolts that you see may have been used to hoist the ballast
into place.
Bill Newman
Marion Rose 111
#233
----- Original Message -----
From: <public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org>
To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 5:03 PM
Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2320, Issue 2
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>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Pu keel bolt question (Kris Coward)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 17:03:46 -0400
> From: Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Pu keel bolt question
> Message-ID: <20120410210346.GL2358 at melon.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
> Nuts that were dropped down there once upon a time?
>
> -K
>
> On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 04:48:14PM -0400, brian curry wrote:
>>
>> Got my answer on keel bolts, we have internal ballast. But I think I am
>> seeing something that looks like the head of a bolt (actually a couple of
>> them) in the bilge under the cabin sole. Could that be?
>>
>>
>> > From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
>> > Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
>> > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 05:54:37 -0700
>> >
>> > Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
>> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> >
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>> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>> >
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>> > public-list-owner at lists.alberg30.org
>> >
>> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> > than "Re: Contents of Public-List digest..."
>> >
>> >
>> > Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
>> > ======================================================
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Today's Topics:
>> >
>> > 1. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (George Dinwiddie)
>> > 2. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (Mike Lehman)
>> > 3. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Mike Lehman)
>> > 4. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
>> >
>> >
>> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >
>> > Message: 1
>> > Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 06:16:06 -0400
>> > From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
>> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
>> > Message-ID: <4F7EC266.80900 at alberg30.org>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>> >
>> > On 4/5/12 10:50 PM, brian curry wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats
>> > > have keel bolts?
>> >
>> > No.
>> >
>> > --
>> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
>> > I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>> > So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
>> > So many I love were not yet born. also see:
>> > 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
>> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------
>> >
>> > Message: 2
>> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 06:56:27 -0400
>> > From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
>> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
>> > Message-ID: <BAY170-DS48AB97C1254828120DF17EB7300 at phx.gbl>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>> > reply-type=original
>> >
>> > Brian
>> >
>> > The A30 has internal ballast which does not require keel bolts
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: brian curry
>> > Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:50 PM
>> > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> > Subject: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
>> >
>> >
>> > I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats have
>> > keel bolts?
>> >
>> > Brian Curry
>> > Makai #151
>> >
>> >
>> > > From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
>> > > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 17:56:21 -0700
>> > >
>> > > Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
>> > > public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> > > public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > > You can reach the person managing the list at
>> > > public-list-owner at lists.alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> > > than "Re: Contents of Public-List digest..."
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
>> > > ======================================================
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Today's Topics:
>> > >
>> > > 1. Stock bow water tank circa #329ish (Len Payne)
>> > > 2. North Channel - July? (Len Payne)
>> > > 3. Re: Sealing cockpit coamings (George Dinwiddie)
>> > > 4. Re: North Channel - July? (Gordon Laco)
>> > > 5. Re: Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs Beneteau
>> > > (Stephen Gwyn)
>> > > 6. Battle of the Bolt (Jeffrey)
>> > > 7. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Michael Grosh)
>> > > 8. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 1
>> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:00:29 -0600
>> > > From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
>> > > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: [Public-List] Stock bow water tank circa #329ish
>> > > Message-ID: <E2A861147E064F749309FF741EF70E61 at sinks3244d14f9>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> > >
>> > > Hi, Jim,
>> > > According to the stock drawings of the Alberg 30, that is a factory
>> > > tank
>> > > that holds 30 gallons.
>> > > The top of the tank is right at the waterline of the boat, with the
>> > > "Vee"
>> > > seat and small drawer just above the water tank.
>> > > Hope that helps.
>> > > Len
>> > > (still up for the circumnavigation? I'm headed to Charlevoix next
>> > > week to
>> > > finish the work on "Myranda", my A-35)
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 2
>> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:05:57 -0600
>> > > From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
>> > > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
>> > > Message-ID: <5043D4099B2148D4B8737C01E5F71258 at sinks3244d14f9>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> > >
>> > > John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
>> > >
>> > > "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then
>> > > ....
>> > > and ready for a decent sail.
>> > > Len
>> > > "Myranda" A-35 #192
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 3
>> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 16:11:20 -0400
>> > > From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
>> > > To: Bill Newman <newman423 at sympatico.ca>, Alberg 30 Public List --
>> > > open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Sealing cockpit coamings
>> > > Message-ID: <F01C91BD-6984-4B69-9A98-14DD905C63ED at alberg30.org>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> > >
>> > > On Calypso, #543, I cleaned off all the old Dolfenite and used
>> > > 2"x1/16" (I
>> > > think, might have been 1/8") neoprene gasket along the top of the
>> > > Fiberglas behind the coaming. After reassembly, I put a fillet of
>> > > caulk
>> > > along this seam, also.
>> > >
>> > > George
>> > >
>> > > Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are
>> > > due to
>> > > that.
>> > >
>> > > On Apr 5, 2012, at 13:58, "Bill Newman" <newman423 at rogers.com> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > I have removed the cockpit coamings for refinishing on #233 for the
>> > > > third time since I bought it in 1998. I have been thinking about
>> > > > the
>> > > > best way to seal them to prevent water on deck from running onto
>> > > > the
>> > > > seats. The coamings are of the old type with a piece of teak
>> > > > quarter
>> > > > round on the outboard side. I am thinking that this time I will
>> > > > just
>> > > > seal the quarter round to the coamings and seal the bottom of the
>> > > > quarter round to the deck. I don't believe any sealant below this
>> > > > level
>> > > > will to much good and may trap water that does get past the seal
>> > > > and
>> > > > cause rot. I will also want to remove them again in a few years so
>> > > > 5200
>> > > > probably isn't a good idea.
>> > > >
>> > > > Any comments from anyone who has done this will be appreciated.
>> > > >
>> > > > Bill Newman
>> > > > Marion Rose III, #233
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > > Please support them.
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > Public-List mailing list
>> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 4
>> > > Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 16:39:09 -0400
>> > > From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
>> > > Message-ID: <CBA37B2D.7FD7%mainstay at csolve.net>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>> > >
>> > > Hello Gents - if you make it to Southern Georgian Bay please be our
>> > > guests... Google Midland Bay Sailing Club.
>> > >
>> > > Gord #426 Surprise
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > On 05/04/12 4:05 PM, "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
>> > > >
>> > > > "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by
>> > > > then
>> > > > .... and
>> > > > ready for a decent sail.
>> > > > Len
>> > > > "Myranda" A-35 #192
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > > Please support them.
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > Public-List mailing list
>> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 5
>> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:40:09 -0700
>> > > From: Stephen Gwyn <stephen.gwyn at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
>> > > To: "public-list at lists.alberg30.org" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs
>> > > Beneteau
>> > > Message-ID: <4F7E1139.2060205 at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > I'm not sure we would have made it upwind in an Alberg:
>> > > it was blowing pretty hard. But we might have, slowly.
>> > > And we would have been safer and happier. This was a Beneteau 29.
>> > > You really had to keep a hand ready to dump the main to avoid
>> > > broaching. And there were no grab handles down below so the
>> > > boat lurched, you tended to go flying. I've never been seasick
>> > > on an Alberg (except sometimes, when I'm down below). I was
>> > > queasy on this boat, 3 days out of 4. The other day was spent
>> > > in a harbour.
>> > >
>> > > The flat bottom sections meant that if there was even
>> > > 2 inches of chop at the dock, you got kept up all night
>> > > with wave slap.
>> > >
>> > > On the plus side, the galley was much, much better than the
>> > > spartan accommodations on the A30. The amount of back strain
>> > > I've had cooking in the A30 galley is considerable.
>> > >
>> > > SG
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 6
>> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:51:04 -0400
>> > > From: Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
>> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> > > Message-ID:
>> > > <CAMRY+94G0etgXWWbh-O5FdEaakwo84SREYT4X2SCyYCnzqzK=Q at mail.gmail.com>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>> > >
>> > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>> > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>> > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
>> > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>> > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>> > > out
>> > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>> > >
>> > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
>> > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
>> > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
>> > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>> > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>> > >
>> > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
>> > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>> > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>> > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
>> > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>> > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
>> > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>> > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
>> > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>> > >
>> > > See:
>> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > >
>> > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
>> > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>> > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
>> > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and
>> > > cut
>> > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
>> > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>> > >
>> > > See:
>> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > >
>> > > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
>> > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>> > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
>> > > like tef-gel??
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > --
>> > > Jeffrey Fongemie
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 7
>> > > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:13:50 -0400
>> > > From: Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com>
>> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> > > Message-ID:
>> > > <CAO99GuEErE7Cik3WKV22cNAHYm6DzpcRwE2WzSQGkyzhBwCK_w at mail.gmail.com>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>> > >
>> > > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads
>> > > holding
>> > > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the
>> > > product,
>> > > but
>> > > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
>> > > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
>> > > I never seize everything on reinstall.
>> > > MichaelGrosh
>> > > #220
>> > > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>> > > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>> > > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
>> > > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>> > > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>> > > > out
>> > > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>> > > >
>> > > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a
>> > > > couple
>> > > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't
>> > > > that
>> > > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
>> > > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>> > > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>> > > >
>> > > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with
>> > > > my
>> > > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>> > > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>> > > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got
>> > > > the
>> > > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>> > > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole
>> > > > to
>> > > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>> > > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still
>> > > > cannot
>> > > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>> > > >
>> > > > See:
>> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > > >
>> > > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the
>> > > > threads.
>> > > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>> > > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my
>> > > > tiller
>> > > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and
>> > > > cut
>> > > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze?
>> > > > I'm
>> > > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>> > > >
>> > > > See:
>> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > > >
>> > > > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for
>> > > > this??
>> > > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>> > > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion
>> > > > substance
>> > > > like tef-gel??
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > --
>> > > > Jeffrey Fongemie
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > > Please support them.
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > Public-List mailing list
>> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 8
>> > > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 00:56:21 +0000 (UTC)
>> > > From: crufone at comcast.net
>> > > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> > > Message-ID:
>> > > <1356577774.943589.1333673781474.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
>> > >
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>> > >
>> > > The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size
>> > > as
>> > > the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on
>> > > a
>> > > boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work
>> > > to
>> > > prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes
>> > > problems
>> > > when trying to disassemble fittings.
>> > >
>> > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > > From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
>> > > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
>> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> > >
>> > > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads
>> > > holding
>> > > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the
>> > > product,
>> > > but
>> > > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
>> > > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
>> > > I never seize everything on reinstall.
>> > > MichaelGrosh
>> > > #220
>> > > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>> > > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>> > > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
>> > > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>> > > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>> > > > out
>> > > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>> > > >
>> > > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a
>> > > > couple
>> > > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't
>> > > > that
>> > > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I
>> > > > drilled
>> > > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>> > > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>> > > >
>> > > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with
>> > > > my
>> > > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>> > > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>> > > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got
>> > > > the
>> > > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>> > > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole
>> > > > to
>> > > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>> > > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still
>> > > > cannot
>> > > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>> > > >
>> > > > See:
>> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > > >
>> > > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the
>> > > > threads.
>> > > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>> > > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my
>> > > > tiller
>> > > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and
>> > > > cut
>> > > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze?
>> > > > I'm
>> > > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>> > > >
>> > > > See:
>> > > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > > >
>> > > > Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for
>> > > > this??
>> > > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>> > > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion
>> > > > substance
>> > > > like tef-gel??
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > --
>> > > > Jeffrey Fongemie
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > > Please support them.
>> > > > _______________________________________________
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>> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > Please support them.
>> > > _______________________________________________
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>> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > Please support them.
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>> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
>> > > ********************************************
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > These businesses support your Association:
>> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > Please support them.
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>> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------
>> >
>> > Message: 3
>> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 07:03:28 -0400
>> > From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
>> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> > Message-ID: <BAY170-DS303A63AC97FCE1AC5FBE74B7300 at phx.gbl>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>> > reply-type=original
>> >
>> > Jeff
>> >
>> > I believe that in this application a SS bolt would be fine. You should
>> > not
>> > have SS corrosion like you would if the bolt were underwater, like the
>> > rudder shoe bolt.
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Jeffrey
>> > Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 6:51 PM
>> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> >
>> > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>> > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>> > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
>> > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>> > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
>> > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>> >
>> > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
>> > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
>> > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
>> > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>> > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>> >
>> > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
>> > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>> > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>> > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
>> > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>> > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
>> > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>> > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
>> > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>> >
>> > See:
>> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> >
>> > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
>> > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>> > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
>> > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
>> > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
>> > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>> >
>> > See:
>> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> >
>> > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
>> > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>> > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
>> > like tef-gel??
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Jeffrey Fongemie
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > These businesses support your Association:
>> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > Please support them.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Public-List mailing list
>> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------
>> >
>> > Message: 4
>> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 12:54:35 +0000 (UTC)
>> > From: crufone at comcast.net
>> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> > Message-ID:
>> > <1072821579.955470.1333716875689.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
>> >
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>> >
>> > Yes
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
>> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
>> > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 9:28:53 PM
>> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> >
>> > Heli coil did cross my mind, except for the mixing of metals. Wouldn't
>> > all
>> > bronze be better?
>> > On Apr 5, 2012 8:56 PM, <crufone at comcast.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > > The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size
>> > > as
>> > > the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on
>> > > a
>> > > boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work
>> > > to
>> > > prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes
>> > > problems
>> > > when trying to disassemble fittings.
>> > >
>> > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > > From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
>> > > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
>> > > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > >
>> > > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
>> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>> > >
>> > > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads
>> > > holding
>> > > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the
>> > > product, but
>> > > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
>> > > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
>> > > I never seize everything on reinstall.
>> > > MichaelGrosh
>> > > #220
>> > > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
>> > > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
>> > > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
>> > > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
>> > > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind
>> > > > out
>> > > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>> > > >
>> > > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a
>> > > > couple
>> > > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't
>> > > > that
>> > > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I
>> > > > drilled
>> > > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
>> > > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>> > > >
>> > > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with
>> > > > my
>> > > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
>> > > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
>> > > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got
>> > > > the
>> > > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
>> > > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole
>> > > > to
>> > > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
>> > > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still
>> > > > cannot
>> > > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>> > > >
>> > > > See:
>> > > >
>> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > > >
>> > > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the
>> > > > threads.
>> > > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
>> > > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my
>> > > > tiller
>> > > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and
>> > > > cut
>> > > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze?
>> > > > I'm
>> > > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>> > > >
>> > > > See:
>> > > >
>> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>> > > >
>> > > > Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for
>> > > > this??
>> > > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
>> > > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion
>> > > > substance
>> > > > like tef-gel??
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > --
>> > > > Jeffrey Fongemie
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > > Please support them.
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > Public-List mailing list
>> > > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > Please support them.
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Public-List mailing list
>> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > These businesses support your Association:
>> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > > Please support them.
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Public-List mailing list
>> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> > >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > These businesses support your Association:
>> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > Please support them.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Public-List mailing list
>> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > These businesses support your Association:
>> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> > Please support them.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Public-List mailing list
>> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
>> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>> >
>> >
>> > End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
>> > ********************************************
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> These businesses support your Association:
>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
>> Please support them.
>> _______________________________________________
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>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
> --
> Kris Coward http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733 830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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> ********************************************
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