[Public-List] Battle of the Bolt

[crufone at comcast.net]

The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems when trying to disassemble fittings. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com> 
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM 
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt 

Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding 
the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, but 
they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and 
tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same. 
I never seize everything on reinstall. 
MichaelGrosh 
#220 
On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote: 

> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and 
> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller 
> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off.  Luckily, there 
> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that 
> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out 
> allowing me to remove the tiller head. 
> 
> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple 
> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that 
> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now.  When I drilled 
> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the 
> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through. 
> 
> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my 
> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and 
> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt 
> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt.  I got the 
> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this 
> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to 
> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but 
> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot 
> remove the steel edges of the bolt. 
> 
> See: 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink 
> 
> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads. 
> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size. 
> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller 
> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut 
> some threads for the new 7/16 size.  How difficult to tap bronze? I'm 
> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows. 
> 
> See: 
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink 
> 
> Once (if) successful,  should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this?? 
> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the 
> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance 
> like tef-gel?? 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jeffrey Fongemie 
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