[Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!

Tue Apr 3 03:48:55 PDT 2012

I bought a "home" welding kit (for brazing) from Lowes, $50.00 or so. It
uses small bottles of acethylene and oxygen. Definately hot enough to melt
bronze and steel, if not careful. It has a pinpoint flame. It burns through
a lot of oxygen, in particular, so get several bottles.
There are some safety issues working with acethyl., namely instability at
high pressures, you don't want the oxygen backing down the acethylene line,
so don't just crank all valves wide open..
MichaelGrosh
#220
On Apr 3, 2012 2:24 AM, "Glennb" <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jeff,
>
> picture is worth a thousands words!!
> yep, you may be right, the bronze head is soaking up the heat and not
> enough Is transferring done the bolt shaft to engage the frozen/ corroded
> threads.  map gas is certainly a lot hotter than propane.  May be worth a
> hundred bucks to have a welder come down on the dock with an oxygen/
> acetylene torch to do the job.  probably take two minutes if you can apply
> enuf heat.
>
> If you try Map gas, use a single oriface tip that creates a pin point jet
> of flame one that focuses the flame into one concentrated point, rather
> than the  round multi flame head that plumbers use.  a single concentrated
>  blue flame should put better than 1200 degrees of heat directly into the
> bolt head, which will solve the problem of difusing heat into the casting.
>  also will transfer the heat directly down the shaft, rather than disburse
> around the inside of the tiller  head, as your casting is doing with
> propane.  the hottest part of the flame is the blue tip, which you can see
> inside the surrounding outer orange/ yellowish flame. the plumbers tip is
> designed to only heat copper pipe enuf to melt solder, and burns mostly in
> the cooler yellow orange heat range.
>
> Last resort, grind the bolt head off and drill out the shank enuf to pull
> off the casting.  But I will bet you can shag loose the bolt with hotter
> gas and more concentrated flame.
>
> good luck,  Remember Gord's advice, never let the damn thing know you have
> any doubt about the outcome!
> Glenn
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 2, 2012, at 3:56 PM, Jeffrey <fongemie at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Stephen,
> >
> > I don't see a locking nut? Could be different?
> >
> > Here's a pic:
> >
> >
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lsS244jx3K_MsQHCr2zNU8Yo97La3IcdoLp5HwrbtiM?feat=directlink
> >
> > The gallery of my lovely tiller head which again has me defeated
> > today.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie/March312012?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOui54Ls4Ou7OQ&feat=directlink
> >
> >
> > -Jeff
> >
> > Jeff Fongemie
> > #116 Seagrass
> >
> > http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 5:15 PM, Stephen Sousa <alberg114 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Jeff,
> >>
> >> Attached to that bolt is a locking nut that needs to backed off.
> Generally when that is free the bolt/pin will screw out of the tiller head.
> This is generally the easy part, I had a very difficult time removing the
> tiller head on #114 a few years back and used WD40/PB Blaster and a torch.
> That process took a few days to remove the tiller head.
> >>
> >> Stephen
> >> (former owner of #114)
> >>
> >>
> >>> From: brooks.glenn at comcast.net
> >>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >>> Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 08:47:52 -0700
> >>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
> >>>
> >>> hi Jeff, Did you heat the bolt to red hot? Iam surprised it didn't
> back out of the bronze shaft.
> >>>
> >>> Any chance the other end is peened...hammered into a mushroom shape to
> prevent extraction?
> >>>
> >>> BTW, your rebuild photos on line are fantastic. great wood working and
> varnish!
> >>>
> >>> Glenn B
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPad
> >>>
> >>> On Apr 2, 2012, at 7:39 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Wish I had real advice to offer....
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On 02/04/12 10:07 AM, "Jeffrey" <fongemie at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> End of day two:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bolt 2
> >>>>> Me 0
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -jeff
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jeff Fongemie
> >>>>> #116 Seagrass
> >>>>>
> >>>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 1:25 PM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Thanks - that's high praise
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> G
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On 2012-04-01, at 10:43 AM, dan walker <dsailormon at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> gord, i see you have been taking writing lessons from mowatt..
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> ________________________________
> >>>>>>> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> >>>>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 7:45 PM
> >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I deal with old fastenings like this:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> First one must "Address the bolt" and apply various techniques
> involving
> >>>>>>> cursing the bolt, one's tools, the whole boat, etc. Second one must
> >>>>>> "Get
> >>>>>>> the bolt's attention" which involves hitting it smartly on the
> head with
> >>>>>> a
> >>>>>>> hammer. If one does this before the first wrench is applied, the
> bolt
> >>>>>> will
> >>>>>>> know that this is a battle to the death that it cannot win.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Success in the whole procedure hinges upon not losing the moral
> high
> >>>>>> ground
> >>>>>>> and letting the bolt dictate what your next action will be and how
> the
> >>>>>> job
> >>>>>>> was going to go. You must keep the initiative.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Applying all one's available resources at the first go is a
> mistake,
> >>>>>> because
> >>>>>>> if the attack fails, clearly the bolt now has the upper hand
> knowing
> >>>>>> you've
> >>>>>>> already played your best cards. The bolt will face your next
> attempt
> >>>>>> secure
> >>>>>>> in the knowledge that it has soundly beaten you once, and it may
> beat you
> >>>>>>> again.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Better to use gradually increasing levels of force. This keeps the
> upper
> >>>>>>> hand in your court, because the bolt soon must know that if it has
> >>>>>> resisted
> >>>>>>> the most recent assault, that victory is hollow and means nothing,
> >>>>>> because
> >>>>>>> recent history would indicate that you will be back and with more
> force,
> >>>>>> in
> >>>>>>> only a moment. You keep your morale high, you may even laugh,
> while the
> >>>>>>> bolt's morale simply must get lower and lower until it knows when
> it is
> >>>>>>> exhausted, it ultimately must give up.
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
> >>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> >>>>>> Please support them.
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>> Public-List mailing list
> >>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> >>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> These businesses support your Association:
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> >>>> Please support them.
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> >>> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> These businesses support your Association:
> >> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> >> Please support them.
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> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
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> Please support them.
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>

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