[Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!

Kris Coward kris at melon.org
Tue Apr 3 06:48:40 PDT 2012 

A before O or up you go.

Or is that O before A and you're OK? ;)

-K

On Tue, Apr 03, 2012 at 06:48:55AM -0400, Michael Grosh wrote:
> I bought a "home" welding kit (for brazing) from Lowes, $50.00 or so. It
> uses small bottles of acethylene and oxygen. Definately hot enough to melt
> bronze and steel, if not careful. It has a pinpoint flame. It burns through
> a lot of oxygen, in particular, so get several bottles.
> There are some safety issues working with acethyl., namely instability at
> high pressures, you don't want the oxygen backing down the acethylene line,
> so don't just crank all valves wide open..
> MichaelGrosh
> #220
> On Apr 3, 2012 2:24 AM, "Glennb" <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> > Jeff,
> >
> > picture is worth a thousands words!!
> > yep, you may be right, the bronze head is soaking up the heat and not
> > enough Is transferring done the bolt shaft to engage the frozen/ corroded
> > threads.  map gas is certainly a lot hotter than propane.  May be worth a
> > hundred bucks to have a welder come down on the dock with an oxygen/
> > acetylene torch to do the job.  probably take two minutes if you can apply
> > enuf heat.
> >
> > If you try Map gas, use a single oriface tip that creates a pin point jet
> > of flame one that focuses the flame into one concentrated point, rather
> > than the  round multi flame head that plumbers use.  a single concentrated
> >  blue flame should put better than 1200 degrees of heat directly into the
> > bolt head, which will solve the problem of difusing heat into the casting.
> >  also will transfer the heat directly down the shaft, rather than disburse
> > around the inside of the tiller  head, as your casting is doing with
> > propane.  the hottest part of the flame is the blue tip, which you can see
> > inside the surrounding outer orange/ yellowish flame. the plumbers tip is
> > designed to only heat copper pipe enuf to melt solder, and burns mostly in
> > the cooler yellow orange heat range.
> >
> > Last resort, grind the bolt head off and drill out the shank enuf to pull
> > off the casting.  But I will bet you can shag loose the bolt with hotter
> > gas and more concentrated flame.
> >
> > good luck,  Remember Gord's advice, never let the damn thing know you have
> > any doubt about the outcome!
> > Glenn
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On Apr 2, 2012, at 3:56 PM, Jeffrey <fongemie at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Stephen,
> > >
> > > I don't see a locking nut? Could be different?
> > >
> > > Here's a pic:
> > >
> > >
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lsS244jx3K_MsQHCr2zNU8Yo97La3IcdoLp5HwrbtiM?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > The gallery of my lovely tiller head which again has me defeated
> > > today.
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie/March312012?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOui54Ls4Ou7OQ&feat=directlink
> > >
> > >
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > Jeff Fongemie
> > > #116 Seagrass
> > >
> > > http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 5:15 PM, Stephen Sousa <alberg114 at hotmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Jeff,
> > >>
> > >> Attached to that bolt is a locking nut that needs to backed off.
> > Generally when that is free the bolt/pin will screw out of the tiller head.
> > This is generally the easy part, I had a very difficult time removing the
> > tiller head on #114 a few years back and used WD40/PB Blaster and a torch.
> > That process took a few days to remove the tiller head.
> > >>
> > >> Stephen
> > >> (former owner of #114)
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> From: brooks.glenn at comcast.net
> > >>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > >>> Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 08:47:52 -0700
> > >>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
> > >>>
> > >>> hi Jeff, Did you heat the bolt to red hot? Iam surprised it didn't
> > back out of the bronze shaft.
> > >>>
> > >>> Any chance the other end is peened...hammered into a mushroom shape to
> > prevent extraction?
> > >>>
> > >>> BTW, your rebuild photos on line are fantastic. great wood working and
> > varnish!
> > >>>
> > >>> Glenn B
> > >>>
> > >>> Sent from my iPad
> > >>>
> > >>> On Apr 2, 2012, at 7:39 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>>> Wish I had real advice to offer....
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On 02/04/12 10:07 AM, "Jeffrey" <fongemie at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> End of day two:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Bolt 2
> > >>>>> Me 0
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> -jeff
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Jeff Fongemie
> > >>>>> #116 Seagrass
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 1:25 PM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> Thanks - that's high praise
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> G
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> On 2012-04-01, at 10:43 AM, dan walker <dsailormon at yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> gord, i see you have been taking writing lessons from mowatt..
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> ________________________________
> > >>>>>>> From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > >>>>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 7:45 PM
> > >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> I deal with old fastenings like this:
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> First one must "Address the bolt" and apply various techniques
> > involving
> > >>>>>>> cursing the bolt, one's tools, the whole boat, etc. Second one must
> > >>>>>> "Get
> > >>>>>>> the bolt's attention" which involves hitting it smartly on the
> > head with
> > >>>>>> a
> > >>>>>>> hammer. If one does this before the first wrench is applied, the
> > bolt
> > >>>>>> will
> > >>>>>>> know that this is a battle to the death that it cannot win.
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Success in the whole procedure hinges upon not losing the moral
> > high
> > >>>>>> ground
> > >>>>>>> and letting the bolt dictate what your next action will be and how
> > the
> > >>>>>> job
> > >>>>>>> was going to go. You must keep the initiative.
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Applying all one's available resources at the first go is a
> > mistake,
> > >>>>>> because
> > >>>>>>> if the attack fails, clearly the bolt now has the upper hand
> > knowing
> > >>>>>> you've
> > >>>>>>> already played your best cards. The bolt will face your next
> > attempt
> > >>>>>> secure
> > >>>>>>> in the knowledge that it has soundly beaten you once, and it may
> > beat you
> > >>>>>>> again.
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Better to use gradually increasing levels of force. This keeps the
> > upper
> > >>>>>>> hand in your court, because the bolt soon must know that if it has
> > >>>>>> resisted
> > >>>>>>> the most recent assault, that victory is hollow and means nothing,
> > >>>>>> because
> > >>>>>>> recent history would indicate that you will be back and with more
> > force,
> > >>>>>> in
> > >>>>>>> only a moment. You keep your morale high, you may even laugh,
> > while the
> > >>>>>>> bolt's morale simply must get lower and lower until it knows when
> > it is
> > >>>>>>> exhausted, it ultimately must give up.
> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> > >>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
> > >>>>>> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > >>>>>> Please support them.
> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> > >>>>>> Public-List mailing list
> > >>>>>> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > >>>>>> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> _______________________________________________
> > >>>> These businesses support your Association:
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> > >>>> Please support them.
> > >>>> _______________________________________________
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> > >>> _______________________________________________
> > >>> These businesses support your Association:
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> > >>> Please support them.
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> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> These businesses support your Association:
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> > >> Please support them.
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
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> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
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> > Please support them.
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> >
> _______________________________________________
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> Please support them.
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-- 
Kris Coward					http://unripe.melon.org/
GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 12B3

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