[Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!

Tue Apr 3 11:57:44 PDT 2012

You can only go one way and that is A before O. Oxygen does not burn, it 
only supports combustion.
Don

On 4/3/2012 9:48 AM, Kris Coward wrote:
> A before O or up you go.
>
> Or is that O before A and you're OK? ;)
>
> -K
>
> On Tue, Apr 03, 2012 at 06:48:55AM -0400, Michael Grosh wrote:
>> I bought a "home" welding kit (for brazing) from Lowes, $50.00 or so. It
>> uses small bottles of acethylene and oxygen. Definately hot enough to melt
>> bronze and steel, if not careful. It has a pinpoint flame. It burns through
>> a lot of oxygen, in particular, so get several bottles.
>> There are some safety issues working with acethyl., namely instability at
>> high pressures, you don't want the oxygen backing down the acethylene line,
>> so don't just crank all valves wide open..
>> MichaelGrosh
>> #220
>> On Apr 3, 2012 2:24 AM, "Glennb"<brooks.glenn at comcast.net>  wrote:
>>
>>> Jeff,
>>>
>>> picture is worth a thousands words!!
>>> yep, you may be right, the bronze head is soaking up the heat and not
>>> enough Is transferring done the bolt shaft to engage the frozen/ corroded
>>> threads.  map gas is certainly a lot hotter than propane.  May be worth a
>>> hundred bucks to have a welder come down on the dock with an oxygen/
>>> acetylene torch to do the job.  probably take two minutes if you can apply
>>> enuf heat.
>>>
>>> If you try Map gas, use a single oriface tip that creates a pin point jet
>>> of flame one that focuses the flame into one concentrated point, rather
>>> than the  round multi flame head that plumbers use.  a single concentrated
>>>   blue flame should put better than 1200 degrees of heat directly into the
>>> bolt head, which will solve the problem of difusing heat into the casting.
>>>   also will transfer the heat directly down the shaft, rather than disburse
>>> around the inside of the tiller  head, as your casting is doing with
>>> propane.  the hottest part of the flame is the blue tip, which you can see
>>> inside the surrounding outer orange/ yellowish flame. the plumbers tip is
>>> designed to only heat copper pipe enuf to melt solder, and burns mostly in
>>> the cooler yellow orange heat range.
>>>
>>> Last resort, grind the bolt head off and drill out the shank enuf to pull
>>> off the casting.  But I will bet you can shag loose the bolt with hotter
>>> gas and more concentrated flame.
>>>
>>> good luck,  Remember Gord's advice, never let the damn thing know you have
>>> any doubt about the outcome!
>>> Glenn
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Apr 2, 2012, at 3:56 PM, Jeffrey<fongemie at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Stephen,
>>>>
>>>> I don't see a locking nut? Could be different?
>>>>
>>>> Here's a pic:
>>>>
>>>>
>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lsS244jx3K_MsQHCr2zNU8Yo97La3IcdoLp5HwrbtiM?feat=directlink
>>>> The gallery of my lovely tiller head which again has me defeated
>>>> today.
>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie/March312012?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOui54Ls4Ou7OQ&feat=directlink
>>>>
>>>> -Jeff
>>>>
>>>> Jeff Fongemie
>>>> #116 Seagrass
>>>>
>>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 5:15 PM, Stephen Sousa<alberg114 at hotmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>> Jeff,
>>>>>
>>>>> Attached to that bolt is a locking nut that needs to backed off.
>>> Generally when that is free the bolt/pin will screw out of the tiller head.
>>> This is generally the easy part, I had a very difficult time removing the
>>> tiller head on #114 a few years back and used WD40/PB Blaster and a torch.
>>> That process took a few days to remove the tiller head.
>>>>> Stephen
>>>>> (former owner of #114)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> From: brooks.glenn at comcast.net
>>>>>> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>> Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 08:47:52 -0700
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> hi Jeff, Did you heat the bolt to red hot? Iam surprised it didn't
>>> back out of the bronze shaft.
>>>>>> Any chance the other end is peened...hammered into a mushroom shape to
>>> prevent extraction?
>>>>>> BTW, your rebuild photos on line are fantastic. great wood working and
>>> varnish!
>>>>>> Glenn B
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Apr 2, 2012, at 7:39 AM, Gordon Laco<mainstay at csolve.net>  wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Wish I had real advice to offer....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 02/04/12 10:07 AM, "Jeffrey"<fongemie at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> End of day two:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Bolt 2
>>>>>>>> Me 0
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -jeff
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Jeff Fongemie
>>>>>>>> #116 Seagrass
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 1:25 PM, Gordon Laco<mainstay at csolve.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Thanks - that's high praise
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> G
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 2012-04-01, at 10:43 AM, dan walker<dsailormon at yahoo.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> gord, i see you have been taking writing lessons from mowatt..
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>>>>>> From: Gordon Laco<mainstay at csolve.net>
>>>>>>>>>> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all<
>>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 7:45 PM
>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Tiller Head - I'm stuck!
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I deal with old fastenings like this:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> First one must "Address the bolt" and apply various techniques
>>> involving
>>>>>>>>>> cursing the bolt, one's tools, the whole boat, etc. Second one must
>>>>>>>>> "Get
>>>>>>>>>> the bolt's attention" which involves hitting it smartly on the
>>> head with
>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>> hammer. If one does this before the first wrench is applied, the
>>> bolt
>>>>>>>>> will
>>>>>>>>>> know that this is a battle to the death that it cannot win.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Success in the whole procedure hinges upon not losing the moral
>>> high
>>>>>>>>> ground
>>>>>>>>>> and letting the bolt dictate what your next action will be and how
>>> the
>>>>>>>>> job
>>>>>>>>>> was going to go. You must keep the initiative.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Applying all one's available resources at the first go is a
>>> mistake,
>>>>>>>>> because
>>>>>>>>>> if the attack fails, clearly the bolt now has the upper hand
>>> knowing
>>>>>>>>> you've
>>>>>>>>>> already played your best cards. The bolt will face your next
>>> attempt
>>>>>>>>> secure
>>>>>>>>>> in the knowledge that it has soundly beaten you once, and it may
>>> beat you
>>>>>>>>>> again.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Better to use gradually increasing levels of force. This keeps the
>>> upper
>>>>>>>>>> hand in your court, because the bolt soon must know that if it has
>>>>>>>>> resisted
>>>>>>>>>> the most recent assault, that victory is hollow and means nothing,
>>>>>>>>> because
>>>>>>>>>> recent history would indicate that you will be back and with more
>>> force,
>>>>>>>>> in
>>>>>>>>>> only a moment. You keep your morale high, you may even laugh,
>>> while the
>>>>>>>>>> bolt's morale simply must get lower and lower until it knows when
>>> it is
>>>>>>>>>> exhausted, it ultimately must give up.
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> These businesses support your Association:
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>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>>>> _______________________________________________
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