[Public-List] Pu keel bolt question

Wed Apr 11 05:21:07 PDT 2012

Use a shop vac to remove them :-)

-----Original Message----- 
From: brian curry
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 4:48 PM
To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Pu keel bolt question

Got my answer on keel bolts, we have internal ballast.  But I think I am 
seeing something that looks like the head of a bolt (actually a couple of 
them) in the bilge under the cabin sole.  Could that be?

> From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 05:54:37 -0700
>
> Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
> public-list at lists.alberg30.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> public-list-owner at lists.alberg30.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Public-List digest..."
>
>
> Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
> ======================================================
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (George Dinwiddie)
> 2. Re: questions about keel and keel bolts, (Mike Lehman)
> 3. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Mike Lehman)
> 4. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 06:16:06 -0400
> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
> Message-ID: <4F7EC266.80900 at alberg30.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> On 4/5/12 10:50 PM, brian curry wrote:
> >
> > I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats
> > have keel bolts?
>
> No.
>
> -- 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
> I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
> So many I loved were not yet dead, http://www.Alberg30.org
> So many I love were not yet born. also see:
> 'The Middle' by Ogden Nash http://idiacomputing.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 06:56:27 -0400
> From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
> Message-ID: <BAY170-DS48AB97C1254828120DF17EB7300 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Brian
>
> The A30 has internal ballast which does not require keel bolts
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: brian curry
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 10:50 PM
> To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: [Public-List] questions about keel and keel bolts,
>
>
> I have a question about something I saw a while back. Do our boats have
> keel bolts?
>
> Brian Curry
> Makai #151
>
>
> > From: public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> > Subject: Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
> > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 17:56:21 -0700
> >
> > Send Public-List mailing list submissions to
> > public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > public-list-owner at lists.alberg30.org
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Public-List digest..."
> >
> >
> > Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
> > ======================================================
> >
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Stock bow water tank circa #329ish (Len Payne)
> > 2. North Channel - July? (Len Payne)
> > 3. Re: Sealing cockpit coamings (George Dinwiddie)
> > 4. Re: North Channel - July? (Gordon Laco)
> > 5. Re: Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs Beneteau
> > (Stephen Gwyn)
> > 6. Battle of the Bolt (Jeffrey)
> > 7. Re: Battle of the Bolt (Michael Grosh)
> > 8. Re: Battle of the Bolt (crufone at comcast.net)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:00:29 -0600
> > From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
> > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: [Public-List] Stock bow water tank circa #329ish
> > Message-ID: <E2A861147E064F749309FF741EF70E61 at sinks3244d14f9>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Hi, Jim,
> > According to the stock drawings of the Alberg 30, that is a factory tank
> > that holds 30 gallons.
> > The top of the tank is right at the waterline of the boat, with the 
> > "Vee"
> > seat and small drawer just above the water tank.
> > Hope that helps.
> > Len
> > (still up for the circumnavigation? I'm headed to Charlevoix next week 
> > to
> > finish the work on "Myranda", my A-35)
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:05:57 -0600
> > From: "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net>
> > To: <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
> > Message-ID: <5043D4099B2148D4B8737C01E5F71258 at sinks3244d14f9>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
> >
> > "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then 
> > ....
> > and ready for a decent sail.
> > Len
> > "Myranda" A-35 #192
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 16:11:20 -0400
> > From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org>
> > To: Bill Newman <newman423 at sympatico.ca>, Alberg 30 Public List --
> > open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Sealing cockpit coamings
> > Message-ID: <F01C91BD-6984-4B69-9A98-14DD905C63ED at alberg30.org>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >
> > On Calypso, #543, I cleaned off all the old Dolfenite and used 2"x1/16" 
> > (I
> > think, might have been 1/8") neoprene gasket along the top of the
> > Fiberglas behind the coaming. After reassembly, I put a fillet of caulk
> > along this seam, also.
> >
> > George
> >
> > Sent from a primitive pocket computer. Please assume all errors are due 
> > to
> > that.
> >
> > On Apr 5, 2012, at 13:58, "Bill Newman" <newman423 at rogers.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I have removed the cockpit coamings for refinishing on #233 for the
> > > third time since I bought it in 1998. I have been thinking about the
> > > best way to seal them to prevent water on deck from running onto the
> > > seats. The coamings are of the old type with a piece of teak quarter
> > > round on the outboard side. I am thinking that this time I will just
> > > seal the quarter round to the coamings and seal the bottom of the
> > > quarter round to the deck. I don't believe any sealant below this 
> > > level
> > > will to much good and may trap water that does get past the seal and
> > > cause rot. I will also want to remove them again in a few years so 
> > > 5200
> > > probably isn't a good idea.
> > >
> > > Any comments from anyone who has done this will be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Bill Newman
> > > Marion Rose III, #233
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 16:39:09 -0400
> > From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] North Channel - July?
> > Message-ID: <CBA37B2D.7FD7%mainstay at csolve.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> > Hello Gents - if you make it to Southern Georgian Bay please be our
> > guests... Google Midland Bay Sailing Club.
> >
> > Gord #426 Surprise
> >
> >
> > On 05/04/12 4:05 PM, "Len Payne" <lenpayne at bresnan.net> wrote:
> >
> > > John - Brian - care for the company of a A-35?
> > >
> > > "Myranda" should be in the water and have passed her 'trials' by then
> > > .... and
> > > ready for a decent sail.
> > > Len
> > > "Myranda" A-35 #192
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:40:09 -0700
> > From: Stephen Gwyn <stephen.gwyn at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
> > To: "public-list at lists.alberg30.org" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Albergers in the South of France Alberg vs
> > Beneteau
> > Message-ID: <4F7E1139.2060205 at nrc-cnrc.gc.ca>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
> >
> >
> > I'm not sure we would have made it upwind in an Alberg:
> > it was blowing pretty hard. But we might have, slowly.
> > And we would have been safer and happier. This was a Beneteau 29.
> > You really had to keep a hand ready to dump the main to avoid
> > broaching. And there were no grab handles down below so the
> > boat lurched, you tended to go flying. I've never been seasick
> > on an Alberg (except sometimes, when I'm down below). I was
> > queasy on this boat, 3 days out of 4. The other day was spent
> > in a harbour.
> >
> > The flat bottom sections meant that if there was even
> > 2 inches of chop at the dock, you got kept up all night
> > with wave slap.
> >
> > On the plus side, the galley was much, much better than the
> > spartan accommodations on the A30. The amount of back strain
> > I've had cooking in the A30 galley is considerable.
> >
> > SG
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:51:04 -0400
> > From: Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAMRY+94G0etgXWWbh-O5FdEaakwo84SREYT4X2SCyYCnzqzK=Q at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> >
> > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> >
> > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> >
> > See:
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> >
> > See:
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> >
> > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > like tef-gel??
> >
> >
> >
> > -- 
> > Jeffrey Fongemie
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:13:50 -0400
> > From: Michael Grosh <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAO99GuEErE7Cik3WKV22cNAHYm6DzpcRwE2WzSQGkyzhBwCK_w at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product,
> > but
> > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> > I never seize everything on reinstall.
> > MichaelGrosh
> > #220
> > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> > >
> > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> > >
> > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> > >
> > > See:
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> > >
> > > See:
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > > like tef-gel??
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 00:56:21 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: crufone at comcast.net
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> > Message-ID:
> > <1356577774.943589.1333673781474.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> >
> > The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as
> > the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a
> > boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to
> > prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems
> > when trying to disassemble fittings.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> >
> > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product,
> > but
> > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> > I never seize everything on reinstall.
> > MichaelGrosh
> > #220
> > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
> > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> > >
> > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I drilled
> > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> > >
> > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got the
> > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> > >
> > > See:
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> > >
> > > See:
> > > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > > like tef-gel??
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -- 
> > > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> >
> > End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2315, Issue 3
> > ********************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 07:03:28 -0400
> From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all"
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> Message-ID: <BAY170-DS303A63AC97FCE1AC5FBE74B7300 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Jeff
>
> I believe that in this application a SS bolt would be fine. You should not
> have SS corrosion like you would if the bolt were underwater, like the
> rudder shoe bolt.
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Jeffrey
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 6:51 PM
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>
> Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. Luckily, there
> was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> allowing me to remove the tiller head.
>
> Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. When I drilled
> the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
>
> I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. I got the
> bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> remove the steel edges of the bolt.
>
> See:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>
> What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> some threads for the new 7/16 size. How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
>
> See:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
>
> Once (if) successful, should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> like tef-gel??
>
>
>
> -- 
> Jeffrey Fongemie
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 12:54:35 +0000 (UTC)
> From: crufone at comcast.net
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> Message-ID:
> <1072821579.955470.1333716875689.JavaMail.root at sz0102a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Yes
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" 
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 9:28:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
>
> Heli coil did cross my mind, except for the mixing of metals. Wouldn't all
> bronze be better?
> On Apr 5, 2012 8:56 PM, <crufone at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > The trade name is Heli-coil. Produces a thread the same internal size as
> > the original bolt. I would use Anti-seize on anything put together on a
> > boat that would need periodic disassembly. Anti-seize would also work to
> > prevent the stainless to stainless galling which really causes problems
> > when trying to disassemble fittings.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Michael Grosh" <dickdurk at gmail.com>
> > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" 
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > >
> > Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:13:50 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Battle of the Bolt
> >
> > Bronze is a wonderful metal to work with. I stripped the threads holding
> > the set screw and installed threads ( I forget the name of the product, 
> > but
> > they are stainless and have held up well 30 years) after drilling and
> > tapping to accommodate them. The set bolt size remains the same.
> > I never seize everything on reinstall.
> > MichaelGrosh
> > #220
> > On Apr 5, 2012 6:51 PM, "Jeffrey" <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Yesterday, after days of heating, spraying, tapping, heating and
> > > waiting..I put the wrench on the one bolt bolt that holds my tiller
> > > head to the shaft, and of course the head came off. ?Luckily, there
> > > was just a little stump of metal sticking out past the shaft that
> > > prevented me from removing the tiller head which was easy to grind out
> > > allowing me to remove the tiller head.
> > >
> > > Today, with the tiller head out of the picture, I got myself a couple
> > > of screw extraction kits, which of course failed. The bolt isn't that
> > > corroded, it just seems to be part of the shaft now. ?When I drilled
> > > the hole for the extraction bit, I drilled all the way through the
> > > bolt since the hole in the shaft also goes clean through.
> > >
> > > I could see with a mirror the back side and clear through so with my
> > > hole evenly centered I, drilled out the hole in the bolt larger and
> > > larger, moving up in drill bit sizes to where there's not much bolt
> > > left. I used a chain saw file to further file out the bolt. ?I got the
> > > bolt to where just the edges are left. Thinking I could remove this
> > > like a cutless bearing I put a modified hacksaw blade in the hole to
> > > create a split, thinking I'd dork up the threads in the bronze but
> > > cleanly in just the one line. I got the cut finished and still cannot
> > > remove the steel edges of the bolt.
> > >
> > > See:
> > >
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dXMZtCcrcLA_ZZuU9tI0bK3GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > What I'm thinking now is that I should give up on saving the threads.
> > > Just drill it all out and tap threads to the next larger size.
> > > Currently I believe the bolt was 3/8. The hole in front of my tiller
> > > head measures 7/16. Perhaps I could drill this all out to 7/16 and cut
> > > some threads for the new 7/16 size. ?How difficult to tap bronze? I'm
> > > not expecting much trouble, but one lever knows.
> > >
> > > See:
> > >
> > https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RHegX__ChJC4c-bWAsP_F63GpdfW2x_hlAS0ffzZ0So?feat=directlink
> > >
> > > Once (if) successful, ?should I use a steel or bronze bolt for this??
> > > It would seem that 7/16 bronze is strong enough, but then again the
> > > bolt is pretty important. Stainless and some anti corrosion substance
> > > like tef-gel??
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -- 
> > > Jeffrey Fongemie
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> > _______________________________________________
> > These businesses support your Association:
> > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > Please support them.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Public-List mailing list
> > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
> http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> Please support them.
> _______________________________________________
> Public-List mailing list
> Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
>
>
> End of Public-List Digest, Vol 2316, Issue 2
> ********************************************

_______________________________________________
These businesses support your Association:
http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
Please support them.
_______________________________________________
Public-List mailing list
Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org 

 1334146867.0