[Public-List] Cockpit core thickness in early boats?

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Tue Mar 27 03:58:53 PDT 2012 

Try hamilton marine. They have a wide selection of hatches

-----Original Message-----

From: Glennb
Sent: 27 Mar 2012 06:13:20 GMT
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit core thickness in early boats?

Hi Villo,

I used my original round  chrome plated bronze inspection plate that was installed over the engine.  When  I rebuilt my cockpit floor I built a 16 x 18" rectangular hatch over the back of the engine to open up access to the whole under cockpit area. And built two battery boxes under the new floor, one each side of the muffer riser, which can be serviced from the hatch.  then remounted the old round inspection hatch aft, directly over the stern tube- for the express purpose of tightening/servicing the packing  gland, to keep it from leaking.  there is also enough room down there for fenders and dock lines, if necessary.   am going to replace the old round metal inspection plate with one of the plastic screw down types this spring.  if I can find a 10" round hatch, will use that, but so far, have only seen the 6" diameter plastic ones.  I was skeptical, but  now am satisfied they are strong enough to walk on, although I am sure it won't last as long as the bronze one, and will
 need replacing at some point.

I'd you prefer metal inspection plates, you might look around at marine surplus stores.  I ve been surprised at what good stuff Ive found in the one in Seattle.

Best regards,
Glenn P
dolce 318

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 26, 2012, at 7:19 PM, vmarmei <vmarmei at axis-design.org> wrote:

>
>
> Hi Glen
> What type of a Inspection Plate did you install on the cockpit floor? This has to be rather strong so that one can step on it. Was this a metal one ??? I can not find  a metal 6inch in dia.one. It looks like I have to fabricate a rectangular one my self out of SS. I have the same problem as yours.
> Thanks - take care
> Villo
>
>
> 03:09 AM 25/03/2012, you wrote:
>> when I bought Dolce six years ago, the rudder tube mounted in the hull was packed with old grey putty around the shaft tube inside the hull.  The material had hardened over the years and was cracked and leaking a small but steady dribble that ran forward down  into the bilge.
>>
>> if your rudder tube is leaking because of failure of this old putty material, you will probably be able to observe a greenish stain coming from the bronze tube running foward on the inside of the hull, where the water dribbles into the bilge. If so,  you can gouge out all this old material and fiberglass the tube in place, once you open up the cockpit floor.
>>
>> alternatively, the tube itself uses an packing gland to seal water from entering the boat from around the rudder shaft.  takeoff the nut on top of the tube and renew the square packing material, hen tighten the nut back down significantly hard to stop water.  in this instance, watermcomes out of the top of the nut., whereas if the tube leaks at the base, water comes in at the hull joint.
>>
>> I put an inspection plate in the cockpit floor over my rudder tube, so  I can access this thing for maintenance every few years.
>> Glenn P.
>> dolce 318
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2012, at 6:11 AM, Joseph Balderson <joebinc at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > I recall 7/16ths marine ply glued in with West. I ground the entire inside
>> > of the hull because my rebuild is rather extensive. So in the area of the
>> > rudder port (where it comes through the hull on the inside) I strenghtened
>> > the rudder port/ hull attachtment by adding biaxial cloth cut to fit and
>> > again placed with west epoxy. Where is the water coming in?
>> >
>> > On Fri, Mar 23, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hi Joseph,
>> >>
>> >> My boat #116 came just after yours, so ours are very likely similar.
>> >>
>> >> Do you remember the thickness of the plywood you used?  I don't understand
>> >> what you mean "retab in the rudder port"?? What will I find for the rudder
>> >> shaft opening when I get in there?? Any ways to stop water intrusion from
>> >> the rudder port??
>> >>
>> >> -Jeff
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Mar 23, 2012 at 7:38 AM, Joseph Balderson <joebinc at gmail.com>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> That's right. I have #115. When I rebuilt my cockpit Masonite was the wet
>> >>> laminate.  I set the router depth to just less than the cockpit
>> >> thickness,
>> >>> about 3/8ths+ or so and hogged out all but the bottom side fiberglass
>> >>> laminate. i then fit and glued in a marine ply filler laminate and
>> >> glassed
>> >>> over all. But............ I took the opportunity to frame in a flush
>> >> access
>> >>> hatch in the forward end of the cockpit (about 20"w x 30"l) and to retab
>> >> in
>> >>> the rudder port while all was open.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 7:32 AM, Jeffrey <alberg30nh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>> The cockpit floor of #116 is soft and needs a new core. Anyone know the
>> >>>> thickness of the core? In the liner boats, I've read 3/8 or 1/2.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Also, has anyone done this in a pre-liner boat? I've read the core
>> >>> consists
>> >>>> of the bottom fiberglass, masonite, a heavy layer of fiberglass,
>> >> another
>> >>>> layer of masonite, then the top fiberglass skin. Sound right?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> For those who have done this, did you use one layer of core material,
>> >> or
>> >>>> two layers as in the original construction??
>> >>>>
>> >>>> -jeff
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Jeff Fongemie
>> >>>> #116 Seagrass
>> >>>>
>> >>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/fongemie
>> >>>> _______________________________________________
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>> >>> --
>> >>> Jeffrey Fongemie
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
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