[Public-List] Manifold petcock Atomic 4

Ronald Walker rwpsw at sbcglobal.net
Sun May 20 17:05:51 PDT 2012 

Thanks Kris
Now I feel much better.Lol

--- On Sun, 5/20/12, Kris Coward <kris at melon.org> wrote:

> From: Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Manifold petcock Atomic 4
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Date: Sunday, May 20, 2012, 12:22 PM
> 
> Ok, if you've got enough of a thread that the normal tap
> doesn't cut
> before it's bottomed out, then it's time for the bottoming
> tap. As long
> as the bottoming tap doesn't get used before/without trying
> the normal
> tap you should be fine. (Starting with bottoming taps is a
> road that
> leads to weekends squandered chasing tools out of the holes
> they were
> supposed to fix, damaging said holes in the process and
> having to fix
> them with helicoils or epoxy, and--of course--madness.)
> 
> Cheers,
> Kris
> 
> On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 05:00:20AM -0700, Ronald Walker
> wrote:
> > Thanks Kris
> > Problem is that the hole is so shallow (maybe 1/2inch)
> that the tappered tap bottoms out before it can begin to
> cut. I started the engine yesterday and held my finger over
> the hole. Almost no pressure so it wouldn't take much to
> plug it. 
> > Ron #292
> > 
> > --- On Sat, 5/19/12, Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>
> wrote:
> > 
> > > From: Kris Coward <kris at melon.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Manifold petcock
> Atomic 4
> > > To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > Date: Saturday, May 19, 2012, 11:30 AM
> > > 
> > > A bottoming tap is intended to be used _after_ a
> regular
> > > tapered tap;
> > > going straight to a bottoming tap can lead to
> uneven threads
> > > (because
> > > the bottoming tap doesn't have enough of a thread
> to bite on
> > > at the
> > > beginning of the hole), or even shards of broken
> tap left in
> > > the hole
> > > (taps are hard and therefore brittle; if one has
> to cut too
> > > much
> > > thread at once, the stress can crack it, and then
> it'll need
> > > to be
> > > ground out). It may be less of a concern when
> cutting a
> > > softer metal
> > > like brass out of an existing thread, but I've
> damaged
> > > enough threaded
> > > holes (and ground out enough tool shards) that I
> wouldn't
> > > hesitate to
> > > get and use both taps just to be on the safe
> side.
> > > 
> > > Cheers,
> > > Kris
> > > 
> > > On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 09:40:37AM -0400, Don
> Campbell
> > > wrote:
> > > > If you can find a bottoming tap of the
> correct size, it
> > > has far less
> > > > taper than the normal tapered tap. You might
> want to
> > > compare it with
> > > > a plug tap to see which might suit you best.
> I imagine
> > > you will have
> > > > to go to an industrial supplier who carries
> an open
> > > line of tools to
> > > > find them.
> > > > Don #528
> > > > 
> > > > On 5/19/2012 8:27 AM, Ronald Walker wrote:
> > > > >The engine is the old Atomic-4.Its my
> understanding
> > > that all Albergs were originally powered by
> them.I believe
> > > the petcock is brass and the manifold is some
> type of steel.
> > > As I said the threads are there, just flattened
> out. I'm
> > > going to try some J.B.Weld. Don't know what else
> to do.
> > > > >
> > > > >--- On Sat, 5/19/12, Glennb<brooks.glenn at comcast.net> 
> > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >>From: Glennb<brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> > > > >>Subject: Re: [Public-List] Manifold
> petcock
> > > Atomic 4
> > > > >>To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open
> to
> > > all"<public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > > > >>Date: Saturday, May 19, 2012, 1:18
> AM
> > > > >>What kind of engine/manifold do you
> > > > >>have, and what material is the
> petcock made
> > > of?  sounds
> > > > >>like the petcock corroded off,
> leaving part of
> > > the threaded
> > > > >>portion in the manifold.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>If so, try going in with a very
> small drill
> > > bit, maybe
> > > > >>slightly larger than the ID of the
> hole, then
> > > run a series
> > > > >>of increasingly larger taps to ream
> out the old
> > > material to
> > > > >>match the original ID and thread.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>just did this on my steam engine,
> took about an
> > > hour to
> > > > >>replace the broken nipple. But it
> was brass and
> > > the boiler
> > > > >>is steel.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>Glenn p
> > > > >>dolce 318
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>Sent from my iPad
> > > > >>
> > > > >>On May 18, 2012, at 12:47 PM,
> Ronald
> > > Walker<rwpsw at sbcglobal.net>
> > > > >>wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>>Maybe someone can help me with a
> small
> > > problem I
> > > > >>discovered during the spring
> start-up
> > > procedure.On the aft
> > > > >>part of the manifold there is a
> petcock. Its is
> > > for draining
> > > > >>the manifold water jacket. As I
> began to close
> > > the petcock I
> > > > >>noticed it was loose. I tried to
> tighten it but
> > > it ended up
> > > > >>falling off in my hand. After a good
> close look
> > > I saw that
> > > > >>the threads were all buggered up.On
> the petcock
> > > as well as
> > > > >>the hole. I thought about running a
> tap in to
> > > maybe sweeten
> > > > >>up the threads but the recess is way
> to
> > > shallow. Any advise
> > > > >>would be appreciated.
> > > >
> > >
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> > > 
> > > -- 
> > > Kris Coward       
> > >             http://unripe.melon.org/
> > > GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E
> 21A4
> > > 05C7 1FEB 12B3
> > > _______________________________________________
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> -- 
> Kris Coward       
>             http://unripe.melon.org/
> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4
> 05C7 1FEB 12B3
> _______________________________________________
> These businesses support your Association:
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> Please support them.
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