[Public-List] Stern squat.

Glennb brooks.glenn at comcast.net
Fri Feb 15 00:11:11 PST 2013


Hey Jeremy,

Not sure that moving the mast will gain much in the way of trim. i moved my mast forward with a crane a few years ago and didnt notice any change in trim as it was only a couple of inches of movement.  Suppose it might be possible to do so by loosening the rigging and leveraging the mast forward with a crow bar and wedge, maybe pulling the foot of the mast with a come-a-long at the same time.   

Actually now that now mention the problem of having to sleep head forward, feet aft, it makes sense about wishing to level the bunk.  We always sleep in the main cabin, so havent had the problems you describe in the focsle.. But certainly understand what a pain that can be.  

Today I actually looked at the bulkheads and focsle berth construction in  Dolce for the purpose of installing a new holding tank under one of the berths.  Its pretty straight forward to cut the berth plywood out and reposition  it lower along the vertical cabinetry  but with a slight upward angle to level the berth.  I think there is at least three inches of clearance under the berth for adjustments. Outboard,the plywood is fiberglassed to the hull, however in board its just screwed down onto wooden cleats secured to the vertical foscle cabinetry.  Perhaps It would be even easier to lay a new piece of 1/2" ply over the top of the old, but with enough of an angle to solve the sloping berth problem.  Could even install a new piece of 1x3 trim to make it appear all horizontal.  This would require sanding  a 3" or 4" strip down to bare glass on the inside of the hull in the focsle, and laying three layers of mat and roving to bound the outboard plywood base to the hull, but over all, maybe a weekend job, plus a couple of of days for painting.

i already went  this route to install a new poly water tank under my main cabin port berth last summer, so cant see why it wouldn't work to resolve the slanted berth angle in your focsle.  This way you wouldn't need to mess with interior ballast.  BTW, The lead ingots that were used for internal ballast on old wood boats needed to be mechanically fixed in place to prevent them from falling out of position and banging into things/people/other parts of the structure when the boat heeled over to far, so any ballast you might choose to add more or less ideally would need to be tied down in some way....

Glenn

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On Feb 14, 2013, at 9:56 PM, j_l_brown <j_l_brown at shaw.ca> wrote:

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