[Public-List] stern squat

David Terrell dterrell1 at charter.net
Mon Feb 18 06:05:23 PST 2013 

Jason and Glenn

my goal was to get the surface of the tank as clean as possible. I did 
not sand it the way one would if one was prepping the hull for a paint 
job. I put on two coats of epoxy - purchased at west marine. It was a 
long time ago and the discussion I had on the site did not raise large 
red flags about safety. I had not planned to use the water for drinking 
- just washing. I did put an inspection port in the cover so I could 
check for grunge and remove it if necessary. Now I treat the water on an 
annual basis. There is an in line charcoal filter before the faucet in 
the galley. It is also easier to fill the tank from the inside than it 
is from the outside. It is easy to see when the tank is getting full. 
This was not part of my initial plan but it works anyway.

It is necessary to take the v-berth apart to do this job. Once the basic 
structure is pushed into the anchor locker, there is lots of room to 
work on the project.

I hope this is helpful.

David, 432



On Sun, Feb 17, 2013 at 9:33 PM, Jason S wrote:

> I am in the process of doing the same thing. My entire berth had to 
> com off
> to remove lid. Once lid is off sanding and cleaning is easy. I am 
> about to
> buy a quart of FDA approved epoxy to coat tank and lid. It might be 
> over
> kill but its only 60 bucks.....better safe than sorry. I have a thread 
> on
> plastic classic forum under projects(search cruiser2b) Has a ton of 
> photos.
> I can email them to you directly if you'd like, Hope that helps.
>
> Jason
> Svsalacia.blogspot.com
> Alberg 30 #457
> On Feb 17, 2013 9:26 PM, "Glennb" <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Hey David,
>>
>> I looked into my tank today, estimating how to rejuvenate it for 
>> potable
>> water.  The interior appears to be glossy finished gel coat but with
>> decades of black staining from algae and chemicals/salts etc in the 
>> water.
>>  Also the last gallon area in the bottom of the tank is blackish- 
>> green
>> from gunge.  The top and edge surfaces are hard to impossible to 
>> reach.
>>
>> How much surface prep did you do to your tank prior to coating with 
>> epoxy?
>>  Iam thinking a good sanding is in order, which will entail cutting a
>> largish access hatch in the top and glassing it back in afterwards... 
>> How
>> muchof this work is necessary before coating with epoxy?  Also how 
>> many
>> coats of epoxy did you use?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Glenn B
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Feb 17, 2013, at 6:15 PM, David Terrell <dterrell1 at charter.net> 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced the water tank lid as Mike suggested and recoated the 
>>> tank
>> with Epoxy as George suggested - no leaks at all for a lot of years. 
>> It was
>> a simple process. I provided George with photographs of the 
>> replacement of
>> the water tank lid. They are available on the web site
>>>
>>> When I got the boat it had some chain in the v-berth under the
>> triangular piece of wood flooring.  It is hard to imagine that that 
>> small
>> amount of chain would do much to bring the bow down. I have no idea 
>> if it
>> has any effect, but I am tempted to take it out and see what happens.
>>>
>>> I have assumed that filling the water tank was important for trim. I
>> have thought that the weight of the of the A 4 and the gas tank just 
>> about
>> balanced the weight of the water tank and the full holding tank. Was 
>> this
>> Carl's genius at work or was it just luck? I would like to think Carl 
>> knew
>> what he was doing, but am more than ready to be corrected by those 
>> who know
>> more than I do.
>>>
>>> When the hull was painted, the boot stripe was redone to fit with 
>>> the
>> way the boat floated in the water - based on prior photographs.  It 
>> looks
>> good or, better, right.
>>>
>>> David, 432, Scholarship
>>>
>>> On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 9:03 PM, Glennb wrote:
>>>
>>>> The lazaratte in a small boat is mostly designed for bouyancy,  but
>> particularly on an A30 is a great place to store big round fenders 
>> and
>> docklines, etc.  I also keep a five gal rubber bucket and a small two
>> burner SS BBQ there as they are bulky and interfere with getting at 
>> the
>> sailing gear in  the cockpit lockers.   I installed a couple of small 
>> eyes
>> with light line woven through to tie the BBQ tight against the 
>> bulkhead so
>> it  doesnt flail around and hurt my selfsteering and other stuff. 
>> Works
>> great.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, most of the offshore sailing rules on the pacific coast 
>>>> require
>> all hatches and cockpit covers to be secured while underway.   I 
>> Adopted
>> the old fashioned method of installing eye bolts through the deck on 
>> all
>> four sides of the front and rear hatch, and on the sides of the 
>> cockpit
>> walls. Then tie the hatches down with line woven from the eyes 
>> across the
>> hatch, or in the case of the cockpit lockers through for and aft 
>> holes in
>> the locker seats down to the eye bolt. works great!  Doesnt cost 
>> much.
>>>>
>>>> Glenn Dolce 318
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 16, 2013, at 3:11 PM, Kris Coward <kris at melon.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Feb 15, 2013 at 07:41:17PM -0700, Jeremy Brown wrote:
>>>>>> Ok, I'm stumped now.   What's good to store there?
>>>>>
>>>>> Lifejackets, heaving line, cushions and pillows, fenders.. 
>>>>> basically
>>>>> anything that's really light.
>>>>>
>>>>>> Is there a ballpark figure for ok amount of weight back there?
>>>>>
>>>>> About none. Fortunately, there are still plenty of things needed 
>>>>> on a
>>>>> boat that weigh about nothing..
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Kris
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Kris Coward                    http://unripe.melon.org/
>>>>> GPG Fingerprint: 2BF3 957D 310A FEEC 4733  830E 21A4 05C7 1FEB 
>>>>> 12B3
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