[Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers

[Jason S]

I like plan three myself. I was wondering about how comfortable it was with
sitting on the nonskid surface?
On Feb 28, 2013 9:37 AM, "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I have done this job several times on my boat and on several other boats
> too. I start by digging out all of the old plywood. For those that wanted
> wood, I used solid teak that I cut and shaped to fill the place for the
> inlay...it’s expensive but looks great when done. I leave the teak proud by
> 1/4” so there is a lifetime of refinishing left. I also overlap the edge of
> the opening so water cannot get under the inlay.
>
> On my boat (I’ve owned my boat for 36 years) my first repair (plan 1) was
> to remove a portion of the plywood with a router then epoxy teak strips and
> that lasted for about 10 years, but eventually water got under and lifted
> the teak.
>
> Plan 2 – remove all of the plywood and epoxy COOSA board which is a high
> density foam board material and then top it off with fake teak/holly made
> from rubber. Looked good at first but after a year was hard to keep clean
> and water started to get under the rubber and lifted it. Plus it started to
> look like crap.
>
> Plan 3 – remove the rubber and glass over the seat so that it is level and
> there is no wood. Because of the foam board the seats are not nearly as
> heavy as the original. Finish the glass, paint the entire seat, the mask
> out and paint a non-skid finish using Kiwi-grip. It looks great, the
> lockers are dry, the hatches are lighter, they are not slippery when wet,
> they are stronger, and there is no maintenance.
>
> I figured out why the seat hatches were always a problem, but the main and
> lazarette hatches are not...it is because we stand on them which put point
> loads on the seats and breaks the seal around the wood.
>
> I wish I had done plan 3 in the beginning, but was trying to hold on to
> the classic look. As it turns out, there is plenty of wood on the boat to
> keep it looking classic.
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: j_l_brown
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 7:59 PM
> To: wayfarer3134 at yahoo.com ; public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> I have the same type of seat(fiberglass hatches with inlay) but a pre
> liner boat(1967).
> On mine the inlay is very thin, I got a sheet of thin teak plywood, same
> as what came out, vanished both sides and edges, I'll bed it and seal the
> edges with 4000uv(not 5200).
> I figure it lasted well enough, and looks good.
>
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Bill Wallace <wayfarer3134 at yahoo.com>
> Date:
> To: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>,alberg 30 <
> public-list at lists.alberg30.**org <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> Hull 626, and yes, I'm talking about the cockpit locker seats.  I wasn't
> going to replace the fibreglass part, just the inlaid plywood.  I've
> already removed it (mostly with a couple of chisels) and repainted the
> fibreglass (with the white 2 part water based LPU).  I could also fill with
> 1 layer of plywood or foam and then cover with fibreglass - that would make
> it fairly resistant to water, and I don't often see the cover anyways since
> I usually leave the seats in place as the cockpit has a permanent cover.
>  The rain still gets in when it blows, so it isn't totally dry.
>
> Bill.
>
>
> ______________________________**__
> From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> To: Bill Wallace <wayfarer3134 at yahoo.com>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open
> to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.**org <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:50:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> Bill
>
> What hull number do you have and are you talking about the cockpit locker
> seats?
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wallace
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:34 AM
> To: alberg 30
> Subject: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> Has anyone replaced their bench seat wood - on my Alberg 30, they are
> plywood but with the seat cushions, they have delaminated rather badly.
>  I'd like to replace them with something which I can still sit on but will
> either dry out or won't delaminate but will still look nice if the cushions
> aren't down.  I was thinking of two options: adding 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick
> slats spaced at 1/4" (eg 1 slat per inch), probably mahogany unless I can
> find a bit of teak around here.  This would be on top of a new plywood
> cover which is laminated to thickness, but not cut to size yet.  Covered
> with cetol marine.  I figure with only 1/4" between slats it will still be
> ok to sit on but will dry.  I would only put the slats on the opening cover
> area, not the entire seat area.  I figure I can sit on the wood at that
> spacing in reasonable comfort.
>
> Other option is to just replace the plywood, cover with cetol and make
> seats with a mesh bottom and the foam that allows water to run through.
>  I've never tried that foam, but it is supposed to work fairly well - the
> issue is that it still needs somewhere to go.
>
> Anyone fixed this issue on their boat with success?
>
> Bill.
> Alberg 30 "Chewan"
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