[Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers - your thoughts ?

John Birch Sunstone at cogeco.ca
Thu Feb 28 10:23:57 PST 2013 

Hi Mike,
I too had Sunstone's seats and aft hatch redone, though too lazy, I took 
them to a shop - they did the dirty work and used really nice solid teak 
planks - looked great cetoled, buuuut, the numbskulls used Sikkaflex to bed 
it down.

Needless to say, I soon had to tae it all up and over winter it on a table 
at home with copies of Encyclopedia Britannica serving as weight to flatten 
the boards slowly. Another good reason to have said yes all those years ago 
to the EB salesman  ; )

I then rebedded the seats with Epoxy resin to seal and while still wet 
toweled a thick mix of epoxy and glass filler like one would trowel a shower 
before laying tiles.

Looks factory OEM now.

Worked perfectly, though in hindsight, I should have plained down the teak 
and laid a plywood &epoxy substrate to eliminate any potential future warp 
issues.

Your thoughts as this being an alternative - seem viable ?

Best to all

John


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers


>I have done this job several times on my boat and on several other boats 
>too. I start by digging out all of the old plywood. For those that wanted 
>wood, I used solid teak that I cut and shaped to fill the place for the 
>inlay...it’s expensive but looks great when done. I leave the teak proud by 
>1/4” so there is a lifetime of refinishing left. I also overlap the edge of 
>the opening so water cannot get under the inlay.
>
> On my boat (I’ve owned my boat for 36 years) my first repair (plan 1) was 
> to remove a portion of the plywood with a router then epoxy teak strips 
> and that lasted for about 10 years, but eventually water got under and 
> lifted the teak.
>
> Plan 2 – remove all of the plywood and epoxy COOSA board which is a high 
> density foam board material and then top it off with fake teak/holly made 
> from rubber. Looked good at first but after a year was hard to keep clean 
> and water started to get under the rubber and lifted it. Plus it started 
> to look like crap.
>
> Plan 3 – remove the rubber and glass over the seat so that it is level and 
> there is no wood. Because of the foam board the seats are not nearly as 
> heavy as the original. Finish the glass, paint the entire seat, the mask 
> out and paint a non-skid finish using Kiwi-grip. It looks great, the 
> lockers are dry, the hatches are lighter, they are not slippery when wet, 
> they are stronger, and there is no maintenance.
>
> I figured out why the seat hatches were always a problem, but the main and 
> lazarette hatches are not...it is because we stand on them which put point 
> loads on the seats and breaks the seal around the wood.
>
> I wish I had done plan 3 in the beginning, but was trying to hold on to 
> the classic look. As it turns out, there is plenty of wood on the boat to 
> keep it looking classic.
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: j_l_brown
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 7:59 PM
> To: wayfarer3134 at yahoo.com ; public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> I have the same type of seat(fiberglass hatches with inlay) but a pre 
> liner boat(1967).
> On mine the inlay is very thin, I got a sheet of thin teak plywood, same 
> as what came out, vanished both sides and edges, I'll bed it and seal the 
> edges with 4000uv(not 5200).
> I figure it lasted well enough, and looks good.
>
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Bill Wallace <wayfarer3134 at yahoo.com>
> Date:
> To: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>,alberg 30 
> <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> Hull 626, and yes, I'm talking about the cockpit locker seats.  I wasn't 
> going to replace the fibreglass part, just the inlaid plywood.  I've 
> already removed it (mostly with a couple of chisels) and repainted the 
> fibreglass (with the white 2 part water based LPU).  I could also fill 
> with 1 layer of plywood or foam and then cover with fibreglass - that 
> would make it fairly resistant to water, and I don't often see the cover 
> anyways since I usually leave the seats in place as the cockpit has a 
> permanent cover.  The rain still gets in when it blows, so it isn't 
> totally dry.
>
> Bill.
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> To: Bill Wallace <wayfarer3134 at yahoo.com>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open 
> to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:50:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> Bill
>
> What hull number do you have and are you talking about the cockpit locker 
> seats?
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wallace
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:34 AM
> To: alberg 30
> Subject: [Public-List] Cockpit bench seat covers
>
> Has anyone replaced their bench seat wood - on my Alberg 30, they are 
> plywood but with the seat cushions, they have delaminated rather badly. 
> I'd like to replace them with something which I can still sit on but will 
> either dry out or won't delaminate but will still look nice if the 
> cushions aren't down.  I was thinking of two options: adding 3/4" wide by 
> 1/8" thick slats spaced at 1/4" (eg 1 slat per inch), probably mahogany 
> unless I can find a bit of teak around here.  This would be on top of a 
> new plywood cover which is laminated to thickness, but not cut to size 
> yet.  Covered with cetol marine.  I figure with only 1/4" between slats it 
> will still be ok to sit on but will dry.  I would only put the slats on 
> the opening cover area, not the entire seat area.  I figure I can sit on 
> the wood at that spacing in reasonable comfort.
>
> Other option is to just replace the plywood, cover with cetol and make 
> seats with a mesh bottom and the foam that allows water to run through. 
> I've never tried that foam, but it is supposed to work fairly well - the 
> issue is that it still needs somewhere to go.
>
> Anyone fixed this issue on their boat with success?
>
> Bill.
> Alberg 30 "Chewan"
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