[Public-List] Cockpit coaming

[Bill Boyle]

Anyone have thoughts on removing the coaming?  I need to take mine off and repair/replace/refinish.  I'm thinking of using a drermel multimate with a metal blade on to cut the bolts.  I should be able to slide that tool between the wood and glass.  It's that or a crowbar.   What do you think?
 
Bill
129
 

________________________________
 From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
To: pat nolan <pnolan33 at yahoo.com>; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org> 
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 4:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-List] Exterior wood finish?
  

Hello friends

Good marine varnish applied to the specified number of coats has the best UV resistance.  Some products will offer convenience with regard, for example, to not having to be sanded between coats, but this is always at the cost of UV resistance.  

professional varnishers may often use a 'no sand' product for build coats, but will complete jobs with one or two coats of regular varnish to boost UV protection.  

When I do varnish seminars people always ask me what goes wrong with most varnish jobs; the answer is simple.   Everyone knows that when starting a job from bare wood, one needs to get the recommended thickness ... But the trouble is this... after three coats or so, the wood starts looking good, so they stop.    It's not the varnish's fault if the application is too thinly. 

Similarly, one needs to protect 'no-sand' finishes with regular varnish and have the combination thick enough. 

Six coats of 'no-sand' with two of regular varnish on top will look as good as any professional job... Yes it's a lot to do the first year... But if one applies one or two light coats every spring following that big first season, the finish should last more than ten years.  (Even on teak)

That's in wooden boats. 

But, with boats like ours that have wood as trim, it can be harder to keep varnish on because of another peril.  Thin pieces of wood, like toe rails, can trap water on their undersides.   Water will soak into bare wood, even teak, quite readily and this will quite efficiently blow any finish off your wood.   Trim pieces need to be finished all round (not so much on undersides because no sun beats there). 

So, nothing resists the sun like regular varnish applied to proper thickness...  But it's a lot of work the first year.   'No-sand' finishes are less work, but also less protection if they're applied without a boost from varnish. 

Isn't it typical that there's always a cost for convenience ?

Gord #426 Surprise. 

On 2013-11-25, at 4:14 AM, pat nolan <pnolan33 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I prefer spar varnish for all areas that are not exposed to sunlight or water , much less toxic and can be applied over oiled surfaces with little preparation . I like " honey teak" for surfaces exposed to the sun or likely to be wet . Hope this helps . Pat
> Seward , Ak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sunday, November 24, 2013 11:59 AM, Mike Lehman <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Do NOT use Armada. I used it for 10 years and was very happy...they must have changed the formula...it now only lasts 3 months. I am pissed and have switched to Cetol natural. It looks good and is very long lasting.
> 
> --- Original Message ---
> 
> From: "Amy & David Swanson" <zira at bellsouth.net>
> Sent: November 24, 2013 3:41 PM
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>, "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Subject: [Public-List] Exterior wood finish?
> 
> I know we have been around this before, but cold weather has me thinking ahead to spring commissioning.  We have let our exterior wood good go the last few years, and I am thinking of going with a Cetol/Armada type finish.  What are the plusses & minuses to these generally, and what one do you recommend?
> 
> David Swanson
> Strayaway Child
> Alberg 30 #229
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