[Public-List] Public-List Digest, Vol 2703, Issue 3
Michael Grosh
dickdurk at gmail.com
Mon Nov 25 15:51:21 PST 2013
Just how is it people can find their way to the list but seem unable to
get off? Instructions for both are in the same section, last I checked.
MichaelGrosh
#220
On Nov 25, 2013 1:51 PM, "Mark Smith" <mspresso at gmail.com> wrote:
> I no longer have need to be on this list. Please remove me. Thank you.
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 1:48 PM, <public-list-request at lists.alberg30.org
> >wrote:
>
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> > Please do NOT include the entire digest in your reply!
> > ======================================================
> >
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: Exterior wood finish? (Glenn)
> > 2. Re: Exterior wood finish? (Gordon Laco)
> > 3. Re: Exterior wood finish? (Jim Davis)
> > 4. Re: Exterior wood finish? (Gordon Laco)
> > 5. Liferaft Storage (gregr at nethere.com)
> > 6. Re: Liferaft Storage (Gordon Laco)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 18:24:52 +0400
> > From: Glenn <brooks.glenn at comcast.net>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Exterior wood finish?
> > Message-ID: <2E6B295F-F81C-4BF6-A7A6-7620805815CC at comcast.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >
> > Thanks Gord,
> >
> > Good to know. I did just as you described- sealed the coaming boards
> with
> > thined varnish, two coats I think. Then six coats full strength. Last
> > couple of years i've also tried putting down two coats of dejks oil as a
> > sealer, before the varnish. Not sure if that is better or not so good
> > yet...
> >
> > I thought about sealing with epoxy, but didnt because of the inevitable
> > stripping that will come sooner than latter in the PNW. Never had more
> than
> > three years varnish life because of the miserable neverending wet. (my
> > solution is take the boat to Hawaii someday, maybe next spring and never
> > come back, muahhahahaah!).
> >
> > Cheers
> > Glenn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On Nov 25, 2013, at 5:38 PM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Hello Glenn
> > >
> > > Epoxy is a great way to seal wood; but it will complicate the
> inevitable
> > stripping job you'll eventually have to face.
> > >
> > > I epoxied a mast once reasoning that the soft spruce would benefit from
> > being hardened I wanted to make my varnish job more proof against
> dings
> > made by shackles etc that would let in water and make black spots in the
> > wood. Many years later when I was stripping that mast I wasn't happy
> about
> > having to cope with the epoxy.
> > >
> > > The best way to seal wood from water intrusion is by means of heavily
> > thinned varnish. Thinned 50/50 with solvent, it will be as thin as
> water
> > and really get into the wood. It's a terrific wood sealer.
> > >
> > > And about the coamings... I agree, there should be no reason to cut
> > bolts...if the heads are plugged (mine aren't) just pick out the plugs
> with
> > an awl and spin them out You will need to hold the nut on the inside
> of
> > course.
> > >
> > > Gord #426 Surprise
> > >
> > > On 2013-11-25, at 8:12 AM, Glenn <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Gord, very interesting. I did not know about the no-sand weakness, so
> > will put a couple of coats on next year when I get back to the US to
> > protect last springs investment.
> > >>
> > >> In areas with a lot or rain, Pacific Northwest and Alaska for example,
> > the biggest threat to varnish is water seeping around the edges of poorly
> > fitted wooden plugs, or any little exposed edge of trim. Like you said,
> > once the wood gets wet along an edge, or split, it peels the varnish
> along
> > the fault line and grows and grows.
> > >>
> > >> Ive heard several local people say they coat all bare sanded trim with
> > two thin coats of epoxy, then varnish over. any thoughts on this?
> > >>
> > >> Shukra!
> > >>
> > >> Glenn
> > >> Dolce 318
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPad
> > >>
> > >> On Nov 25, 2013, at 1:52 PM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Hello friends
> > >>>
> > >>> Good marine varnish applied to the specified number of coats has the
> > best UV resistance. Some products will offer convenience with regard,
> for
> > example, to not having to be sanded between coats, but this is always at
> > the cost of UV resistance.
> > >>>
> > >>> professional varnishers may often use a 'no sand' product for build
> > coats, but will complete jobs with one or two coats of regular varnish to
> > boost UV protection.
> > >>>
> > >>> When I do varnish seminars people always ask me what goes wrong with
> > most varnish jobs; the answer is simple. Everyone knows that when
> > starting a job from bare wood, one needs to get the recommended thickness
> > ... But the trouble is this... after three coats or so, the wood starts
> > looking good, so they stop. It's not the varnish's fault if the
> > application is too thinly.
> > >>>
> > >>> Similarly, one needs to protect 'no-sand' finishes with regular
> > varnish and have the combination thick enough.
> > >>>
> > >>> Six coats of 'no-sand' with two of regular varnish on top will look
> as
> > good as any professional job... Yes it's a lot to do the first year...
> But
> > if one applies one or two light coats every spring following that big
> first
> > season, the finish should last more than ten years. (Even on teak)
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 09:39:33 -0500
> > From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Exterior wood finish?
> > Message-ID: <CEB8CB55.152B4%mainstay at csolve.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> > Hello Glenn - I'd like to take SURPRISE to Hawaii some day too - maybe
> if I
> > rationalize that it's for the sake of my woodwork that'll be the tipping
> > point to make it happen....
> >
> > Eight coats of varnish is a good finish. I know to folks reading this
> who
> > haven't done it before it sounds like a lot but if one does it, one
> doesn't
> > have to do it again.
> >
> > My own routine has been to do the initial thinned coats with regular
> > varnish...then do one coat a day of the no-sand stuff each day for a
> week.
> > Then I go back to real varnish for the last two in order to make sure
> I've
> > got protection from the sun.
> >
> > In varnishing, it's the sanding followed by the de-dusting between coats
> > that takes the time and hard work. Using the no-sand stuff cuts 90% of
> the
> > labour out of the work of building up the protective coats.
> >
> > Surprise's toe rails don't look so good now because the bedding on them
> > failed (again) and water compromised my varnish job. I really should
> > remove
> > them; do the proper rebedding job, then lay them on again after getting 2
> > coats of varnish on them. I would then do the regular build up once the
> > plugs are back over the screw and bolt heads. Maybe I'll do that next
> year
> > (but more likely I'll try to bed the edges of them because I'm lazy and
> in
> > the spring want to get sailing....)
> >
> > Gord #426 Surprise
> >
> >
> > On 25/11/13 9:24 AM, "Glenn" <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks Gord,
> > >
> > > Good to know. I did just as you described- sealed the coaming boards
> > with
> > > thined varnish, two coats I think. Then six coats full strength. Last
> > couple
> > > of years i've also tried putting down two coats of dejks oil as a
> sealer,
> > > before the varnish. Not sure if that is better or not so good yet...
> > >
> > > I thought about sealing with epoxy, but didnt because of the
> inevitable
> > > stripping that will come sooner than latter in the PNW. Never had more
> > than
> > > three years varnish life because of the miserable neverending wet. (my
> > > solution is take the boat to Hawaii someday, maybe next spring and
> never
> > come
> > > back, muahhahahaah!).
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Glenn
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPad
> > >
> > > On Nov 25, 2013, at 5:38 PM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello Glenn
> > >>
> > >> Epoxy is a great way to seal wood; but it will complicate the
> inevitable
> > >> stripping job you'll eventually have to face.
> > >>
> > >> I epoxied a mast once reasoning that the soft spruce would benefit
> from
> > being
> > >> hardened I wanted to make my varnish job more proof against dings
> > made by
> > >> shackles etc that would let in water and make black spots in the wood.
> > Many
> > >> years later when I was stripping that mast I wasn't happy about having
> > to
> > >> cope with the epoxy.
> > >>
> > >> The best way to seal wood from water intrusion is by means of heavily
> > thinned
> > >> varnish. Thinned 50/50 with solvent, it will be as thin as water
> and
> > >> really get into the wood. It's a terrific wood sealer.
> > >>
> > >> And about the coamings... I agree, there should be no reason to cut
> > >> bolts...if the heads are plugged (mine aren't) just pick out the plugs
> > with
> > >> an awl and spin them out You will need to hold the nut on the
> inside
> > of
> > >> course.
> > >>
> > >> Gord #426 Surprise
> > >>
> > >> On 2013-11-25, at 8:12 AM, Glenn <brooks.glenn at comcast.net> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Gord, very interesting. I did not know about the no-sand weakness,
> so
> > will
> > >>> put a couple of coats on next year when I get back to the US to
> > protect last
> > >>> springs investment.
> > >>>
> > >>> In areas with a lot or rain, Pacific Northwest and Alaska for
> example,
> > the
> > >>> biggest threat to varnish is water seeping around the edges of poorly
> > fitted
> > >>> wooden plugs, or any little exposed edge of trim. Like you said,
> once
> > the
> > >>> wood gets wet along an edge, or split, it peels the varnish along the
> > fault
> > >>> line and grows and grows.
> > >>>
> > >>> Ive heard several local people say they coat all bare sanded trim
> with
> > two
> > >>> thin coats of epoxy, then varnish over. any thoughts on this?
> > >>>
> > >>> Shukra!
> > >>>
> > >>> Glenn
> > >>> Dolce 318
> > >>>
> > >>> Sent from my iPad
> > >>>
> > >>> On Nov 25, 2013, at 1:52 PM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>>> Hello friends
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Good marine varnish applied to the specified number of coats has the
> > best
> > >>>> UV resistance. Some products will offer convenience with regard,
> for
> > >>>> example, to not having to be sanded between coats, but this is
> always
> > at
> > >>>> the cost of UV resistance.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> professional varnishers may often use a 'no sand' product for build
> > coats,
> > >>>> but will complete jobs with one or two coats of regular varnish to
> > boost UV
> > >>>> protection.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> When I do varnish seminars people always ask me what goes wrong with
> > most
> > >>>> varnish jobs; the answer is simple. Everyone knows that when
> > starting a
> > >>>> job from bare wood, one needs to get the recommended thickness ...
> > But the
> > >>>> trouble is this... after three coats or so, the wood starts looking
> > good,
> > >>>> so they stop. It's not the varnish's fault if the application is
> > too
> > >>>> thinly.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Similarly, one needs to protect 'no-sand' finishes with regular
> > varnish and
> > >>>> have the combination thick enough.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Six coats of 'no-sand' with two of regular varnish on top will look
> > as good
> > >>>> as any professional job... Yes it's a lot to do the first year...
> But
> > if
> > >>>> one applies one or two light coats every spring following that big
> > first
> > >>>> season, the finish should last more than ten years. (Even on teak)
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 11:12:24 -0500 (EST)
> > From: Jim Davis <a30240 at earthlink.net>
> > To: A30 <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Exterior wood finish?
> > Message-ID:
> > <
> >
> 13427809.1385395945024.JavaMail.root at mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > Gord wrote "The best way to seal wood from water intrusion is by means
> of
> > heavily thinned varnish. Thinned 50/50 with solvent, it will be as
> thin
> > as water and really get into the wood. It's a terrific wood sealer."
> >
> > This is the same technique I have used for a long time. I sand with 120
> > just before varnishing bare teak and wipe it down with either alcohol or
> > acetone. I start with 50/50 spar varnish and mineral spirits and simply
> > brush it on. I try for two (three) coats a day without sanding between
> > coats. If the surface is soft, or tacky you can apply wet on wet. Once
> > the surface has started to gloss then let it dry well and sand with ~180,
> > dust and tack cloth. For building up the coats use either Epifanes Wood
> > Finish or a good spar varnish. With the Epifanes you don't need to sand
> > between coats, but do need to top coat with a real varnish. This
> produces
> > a finish that last as long as you recoat it in the spring and fall.
> Where
> > I have a failure do to water intrusion, or dinging it, I sand or scrape
> the
> > affected area and build it up the same way.
> >
> > Just a side thought. Personally I don't like the modern marine
> varnishes.
> > They are too thin. I try to use the old fashioned McCloskey Man O War
> > Spar Varnish. It is an old high resin finish that is much thicker than
> the
> > newfangled stuff.
> >
> >
> > Jim Davis
> > Privateer Isa Lei
> >
> > If man does find the solution for world peace it will be the most
> > revolutionary reversal of his record we have ever known.
> >
> > George C. Marshall
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 11:44:04 -0500
> > From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > To: Jim Davis <a30240 at earthlink.net>, Alberg 30 Public List -- open to
> > all <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Exterior wood finish?
> > Message-ID: <CEB8E884.152CC%mainstay at csolve.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
> >
> > Thanks Jim.
> >
> > And you've driven me out of cover. The marine finish information I've
> > given
> > has been impartial.... But since you've mentioned Epifanes, I'll spill
> the
> > beans that I am the Canadian distributor for that company. The
> information
> > I've offered is good for any varnish, whoever makes it.
> >
> > Epifanes 'Wood Finish' in gloss is pretty good in the sun; but it's best
> to
> > cover it with regular varnish (we think ours is pretty good) to boost the
> > UV
> > resistance.
> >
> > An interesting dynamic in varnishes is that matt or flat finishes don't
> > stand up so well in the sun as gloss, and this goes for whoever the
> > manufacturer is. It's recommended that if you want a matt finish in an
> > exterior situation, you varnish normally then do the last coat with a
> matt
> > varnish. I do that with my cockpit seat wood inlays. Our 'Clear
> Varnish'
> > (aren't those Dutch clever with product names?) is very glossy and very
> > good
> > against UV, but it's slippery. Matt isn't so slippery so we do the last
> > coat with that.
> >
> > Our CV ('Clear Varnish') is old fashioned oil based varnish too. It's
> also
> > relatively thick right out of the can, which most people like a lot and a
> > few others don't. Professionals I deal with like the thickness because
> > when you're doing the last coats you really get a last coat.... And
> you've
> > got a wider scale of thickness to thin down to when you want it thinner.
> >
> > I was just talking with a client on the phone who does wood refinishing
> for
> > historic sites. For him, the time involved doing a good varnish job
> has a
> > huge bearing on how profitably he can complete contracts. He uses our
> > 'Rapid Coat Clear' varnish for his build coats because he can lay on two
> or
> > three coats per day due to it's fast curing and no-sanding
> > characteristics... He'll do his last coats with regular real varnish to
> > make
> > sure the job lasts and his client stays happy.
> >
> > I was telling him just now that where door varnish jobs often fail is
> along
> > the lower parts and people sometimes think this is due to water splashing
> > on
> > the lower part of the door. That?s not the problem.... The problem is
> that
> > often the lower EDGE of the door doesn?t get varnished, and it wicks up
> > water, and that?s what can cause the varnish to lift. Water on top of
> > varnish is no problem, but water coming into the wood can be.
> >
> > Again - I'm not selling Epi on this list - the information I've given is
> > applicable to anyone's varnish.
> >
> > And, as I guess you folks can guess, I find this stuff very interesting.
> I
> > hope you do too!
> >
> > Gord #426 Surprise
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 25/11/13 11:12 AM, "Jim Davis" <a30240 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Gord wrote "The best way to seal wood from water intrusion is by means
> > of
> > > heavily thinned varnish. Thinned 50/50 with solvent, it will be as
> > thin as
> > > water and really get into the wood. It's a terrific wood sealer."
> > >
> > > This is the same technique I have used for a long time. I sand with
> 120
> > just
> > > before varnishing bare teak and wipe it down with either alcohol or
> > acetone.
> > > I start with 50/50 spar varnish and mineral spirits and simply brush it
> > on. I
> > > try for two (three) coats a day without sanding between coats. If the
> > surface
> > > is soft, or tacky you can apply wet on wet. Once the surface has
> > started to
> > > gloss then let it dry well and sand with ~180, dust and tack cloth.
> For
> > > building up the coats use either Epifanes Wood Finish or a good spar
> > varnish.
> > > With the Epifanes you don't need to sand between coats, but do need to
> > top
> > > coat with a real varnish. This produces a finish that last as long as
> > you
> > > recoat it in the spring and fall. Where I have a failure do to water
> > > intrusion, or dinging it, I sand or scrape the affected area and build
> > it up
> > > the same way.
> > >
> > > Just a side thought. Personally I don't like the modern marine
> > varnishes.
> > > They are too thin. I try to use the old fashioned McCloskey Man O War
> > Spar
> > > Varnish. It is an old high resin finish that is much thicker than the
> > > newfangled stuff.
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim Davis
> > > Privateer Isa Lei
> > >
> > > If man does find the solution for world peace it will be the most
> > > revolutionary reversal of his record we have ever known.
> > >
> > > George C. Marshall
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > These businesses support your Association:
> > > http://www.alberg30.org/store/A30supporters.html
> > > Please support them.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Public-List mailing list
> > > Public-List at lists.alberg30.org
> > > http://lists.alberg30.org/listinfo.cgi/public-list-alberg30.org
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 10:23:11 -0800
> > From: gregr at nethere.com
> > To: public-list at lists.alberg30.org
> > Subject: [Public-List] Liferaft Storage
> > Message-ID: <1385403791.5293958f74780 at webmail.nethere.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I'm in the process of adding a Viking RescYou 4 person life raft to Ayla.
> > What are the good locations to store it?
> >
> > Aft Lazarette: Fairly easy access. I try to only load the aft compartment
> > with light stuff like cushions and fenders. Ayla already squats a bit due
> > to the Yanmar 2GM. I'm not sure that another 60lbs would make much of a
> > difference but it's going in the wrong direction...
> >
> > Port Lazarette: Battery 2 in here to have it up higher to protect it.
> Also
> > used for 5 gal water jug and sails. The battery and water help to balance
> > the fuel on the Starboard side.
> >
> > Starboard Lazarette: Original diesel tank. Boat maintenance stuff like
> > bucket, boat brush, etc... Try to not had weight to the ~90lbs of fuel.
> >
> > Cabin top between mast and turtle: Might be tough to launch from here in
> > truly lousy conditions. Might further reduce visibility forward.
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Greg
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 13:48:38 -0500
> > From: Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
> > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> > <public-list at lists.alberg30.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Public-List] Liferaft Storage
> > Message-ID: <CEB905B6.15306%mainstay at csolve.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> > Good day -
> >
> > My only direct experience with life rafts was when I served as a
> consultant
> > on the television show 'Survivorman' in which Les Stroud is sent into
> > various environments and copes for five days with what one might expect
> to
> > have at hand. Sometimes he's been in the desert, sometimes a swamp, the
> > one
> > I did with him was assuming he'd had to abandon a yacht at sea and live
> in
> > a
> > life raft for five days.
> >
> > The production company made a deal with Switlik for the use of one of
> their
> > four person life rafts; but they backed out at the last minute suggesting
> > that a five day test of a life raft was unrealistic...their
> representative
> > said 'in this day and age anyone anywhere should expect rescue in two
> > days'.
> >
> > I reckon he doesn't read the news nor books much.
> >
> > We were in a pickle; there we were in Belize about to set Les adrift but
> > without a raft. I hit upon the idea of renting a raft from a yacht
> > actually
> > on a voyage; there were several yachts around, I knew people would
> probably
> > be glad of the cash and it would add an interesting story point to be
> using
> > a 'real' raft in the midst of a voyage.
> >
> > The first two rafts we tried (and you can guess where this is going)
> which
> > had both been stored in on-deck canisters, inflated correctly when the
> > lanyard was pulled. The first literally fell to pieces before our eyes.
> > You should have seen the look on the owner's face. The glue had perished
> > and the raft sank before our eyes as a bunch of sheets of hypalon rubber.
> >
> > The second raft didn't quite fall to pieces, but it leaked so badly that
> we
> > couldn't use it. You should have seen the look on that fellow's face
> too.
> >
> > The third raft blew up and...and.... Stayed inflated. However, when we
> > opened the emergency kit, we found twice the amount of food in the
> > container, but no water. You should have seen the look on that fellow's
> > face.
> >
> > Each of these rafts were by name-brand manufacturers you'd all know. The
> > first two had been stored in deck canisters and I reckon baking in the
> sun
> > is what did them in. The first one was three years past it's repack
> date,
> > the second one year past, as was the third.
> >
> > We gave Les a very old Zodiac inflatable boat reckoning that it was
> > reasonable to assume a sailor abandoning ship would bring his dink.
> >
> > Les ended up living during the day in the life raft to get out of the
> sun,
> > but he had to work steadily to keep it inflated and also bailed out. It
> > leaked through it's bottom.
> >
> > The ancient Zodiac however, performed flawlessly and he slept in it at
> > night. Which was fine except when it rained in which case he really
> > suffered.
> >
> > So what did I come away from that with? Always observe the repack dates.
> > And with regard to stowage - most certainly on-deck stowage is best with
> > regard to getting the raft over the side; but beware the effect of the
> sun
> > baking your raft while you're sailing. I'd suggest only putting it out
> on
> > deck when you're making a passage.
> >
> > Well there's another long message, I hope it's interesting.
> >
> > Gord #426 Surprise
> >
> > On 25/11/13 1:23 PM, "gregr at nethere.com" <gregr at nethere.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Folks,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of adding a Viking RescYou 4 person life raft to
> Ayla.
> > > What are the good locations to store it?
> > >
> > > Aft Lazarette: Fairly easy access. I try to only load the aft
> compartment
> > > with light stuff like cushions and fenders. Ayla already squats a bit
> due
> > > to the Yanmar 2GM. I'm not sure that another 60lbs would make much of a
> > > difference but it's going in the wrong direction...
> > >
> > > Port Lazarette: Battery 2 in here to have it up higher to protect it.
> > Also
> > > used for 5 gal water jug and sails. The battery and water help to
> balance
> > > the fuel on the Starboard side.
> > >
> > > Starboard Lazarette: Original diesel tank. Boat maintenance stuff like
> > > bucket, boat brush, etc... Try to not had weight to the ~90lbs of fuel.
> > >
> > > Cabin top between mast and turtle: Might be tough to launch from here
> in
> > > truly lousy conditions. Might further reduce visibility forward.
> > >
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Greg
> > >
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> >
> >
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