[Public-List] Spreader Material

David Gilbert bigkanu at rogers.com
Mon Oct 7 15:37:36 PDT 2013


www.sailblogs.com/member/harmoniumcays. Glad to hear something brewing  
with Krista. No holding her down.
David - ABYC
On 7-Oct-13, at 3:50 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:

> I think Krista will be back, for visits at least.  I think they're  
> leaving
> the boat south but they'll be back.  Krista works with me and we're  
> brewing
> a project for next year.
>
> Lisa Slack sent me the blog link but I've lost it - could you send  
> it to me?
> Last I heard they were in Sandy Hook but that was ages ago.
>
> G
>
>
>
>
> On 07/10/13 3:43 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>
>> That may be a few years away. I don't think Phil, at least, has any
>> plans for returning any time soon. Would enjoy seeing you before  
>> that.
>> Hope you are monitoring their excellent blog and related pics.
>> David ABYC
>> On 7-Oct-13, at 3:17 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:
>>
>>> Hello David - I reckon I'll be there when Krista and Phil return
>>> from their
>>> trip south.
>>>
>>> G
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 07/10/13 3:15 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Gord, we'd be happy to see you at ABYC again any time. Well,
>>>> I'm doing the right thing by taking it down every year. I did  
>>>> have to
>>>> replace the rusting pop rivets that hold the heavy aluminum  
>>>> spreader
>>>> housings in place.
>>>> David
>>>> On 7-Oct-13, at 3:03 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello David - great club.
>>>>>
>>>>> It's not the swages I'd suggest examining - Bruce is right that  
>>>>> one
>>>>> needs to
>>>>> X ray or acid pigment them to reveal trouble - it's the pins,
>>>>> shackles,
>>>>> tangs, spreaders, sheaves etc that more frequently and regularly
>>>>> wear out.
>>>>>
>>>>> Gord  Surprise #426
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 07/10/13 3:00 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> My Club, ABYC in Toronto, is moving towards a mast up haul out  
>>>>>> for
>>>>>> certain larger vessels. I will not take advantage of this because
>>>>>> dismasting an Alberg 30 is very easy given the right equipment  
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> people. ABYC is a self help Club and sports both. I loosen the  
>>>>>> rig,
>>>>>> replace the locking rings on the clevis pins with a length of
>>>>>> copper
>>>>>> wire, very easy to remove. Then take the clevis pins out of the
>>>>>> forward and aft lowers and let them hang loose; move to the mast
>>>>>> crane
>>>>>> area. Put the straps around the mast and lift to just below the
>>>>>> spreaders. Good idea to have a secure line pulling down on the
>>>>>> strap
>>>>>> and secured at the base of the mast. Remove the footing bolt,
>>>>>> ensure
>>>>>> the strap now has the weight of the mast. Remove the four  
>>>>>> cardinal
>>>>>> uppers, lift the mast and it's done. The copper wire/clevis pin
>>>>>> method
>>>>>> beats turning off turnbuckles by several minutes.
>>>>>> When we had the boat in Prinyer's Cove for 7 years we never took
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> mast down. Conventional wisdom says to always take it down to
>>>>>> inspect
>>>>>> the swaged fittings. I asked Bruce Burgess at the rigging Shoppe
>>>>>> about
>>>>>> this and he told me that the only way you can identify weaknesses
>>>>>> in
>>>>>> the swaging is by Xray. So it stayed up. Of course I have  
>>>>>> aluminum
>>>>>> spreaders but, if they were wood I would want to inspect them  
>>>>>> every
>>>>>> year.
>>>>>> David
>>>>>> On 7-Oct-13, at 2:07 PM, Dominic Amann wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I noticed you suggested that it is a good idea to take down the
>>>>>>> mast
>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>> winter. I assume you have not yet done so for your boat? If not,
>>>>>>> would you
>>>>>>> accept a volunteer to help (so I can learn how it is done for my
>>>>>>> own
>>>>>>> boat)?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Mon, Oct 7, 2013 at 11:57 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net 
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Very interesting Greg.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Black locust is wonderful wood.  We're making block shells  
>>>>>>>> out of
>>>>>>>> it, and
>>>>>>>> I'm planning on using it for the toe rails and rubbing  
>>>>>>>> strakes of
>>>>>>>> my wooden
>>>>>>>> boat as part of her rescue.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Best of all, when varnished it's got that lovely blonde look
>>>>>>>> white
>>>>>>>> oak has.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thank you.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Gord
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 07/10/13 11:53 AM, "Greg Bover" <gregbover at cbfisk.com>  
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I think I recognize the wood properties chart from page 4-7 of
>>>>>>>>> The Wood
>>>>>>>>> Handbook: wood as an engineering material, put out by the  
>>>>>>>>> Forest
>>>>>>>> Service. A
>>>>>>>>> well-thumbed copy sits on my desk in the organ building  
>>>>>>>>> company
>>>>>>>>> where
>>>>>>>> I've
>>>>>>>>> been a wood worker and designer for 35 years. It is  
>>>>>>>>> available at
>>>>>>>>> many
>>>>>>>>> libraries, especially academic ones, and can be had for cheap
>>>>>>>>> second
>>>>>>>> hand at
>>>>>>>>> Alibris. Hickory does have great compressive strength parallel
>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> grain,
>>>>>>>>> but is in the grouping of "slightly or non-resistant" when it
>>>>>>>>> comes to
>>>>>>>>> decay, (page 3-18). The best domestic wood with the highest
>>>>>>>>> compression
>>>>>>>>> rating and in the "resistant to very resistant" category is
>>>>>>>>> black
>>>>>>>>> locust,
>>>>>>>>> followed closely by white oak. The book goes on to say that
>>>>>>>>> decay is
>>>>>>>>> hastened by water intrusion, so as others have mentioned,
>>>>>>>>> keeping
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> finish
>>>>>>>>> up and the bolt holes sealed is the key to longevity.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Greg Bover
>>>>>>>>> A-30 #114
>>>>>>>>> LINNET
>>>>>>>>> Gloucester
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dominic Amann
>>>>>>> M 416-270-4587
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
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>
>
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