[Public-List] Spreader Material

Mon Oct 7 12:17:51 PDT 2013

Hello David - I reckon I'll be there when Krista and Phil return from their
trip south.

G

On 07/10/13 3:15 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gord, we'd be happy to see you at ABYC again any time. Well,
> I'm doing the right thing by taking it down every year. I did have to
> replace the rusting pop rivets that hold the heavy aluminum spreader
> housings in place.
> David
> On 7-Oct-13, at 3:03 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:
> 
>> Hello David - great club.
>> 
>> It's not the swages I'd suggest examining - Bruce is right that one
>> needs to
>> X ray or acid pigment them to reveal trouble - it's the pins,
>> shackles,
>> tangs, spreaders, sheaves etc that more frequently and regularly
>> wear out.
>> 
>> Gord  Surprise #426
>> 
>> 
>> On 07/10/13 3:00 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> My Club, ABYC in Toronto, is moving towards a mast up haul out for
>>> certain larger vessels. I will not take advantage of this because
>>> dismasting an Alberg 30 is very easy given the right equipment and
>>> people. ABYC is a self help Club and sports both. I loosen the rig,
>>> replace the locking rings on the clevis pins with a length of copper
>>> wire, very easy to remove. Then take the clevis pins out of the
>>> forward and aft lowers and let them hang loose; move to the mast
>>> crane
>>> area. Put the straps around the mast and lift to just below the
>>> spreaders. Good idea to have a secure line pulling down on the strap
>>> and secured at the base of the mast. Remove the footing bolt, ensure
>>> the strap now has the weight of the mast. Remove the four cardinal
>>> uppers, lift the mast and it's done. The copper wire/clevis pin
>>> method
>>> beats turning off turnbuckles by several minutes.
>>> When we had the boat in Prinyer's Cove for 7 years we never took the
>>> mast down. Conventional wisdom says to always take it down to inspect
>>> the swaged fittings. I asked Bruce Burgess at the rigging Shoppe
>>> about
>>> this and he told me that the only way you can identify weaknesses in
>>> the swaging is by Xray. So it stayed up. Of course I have aluminum
>>> spreaders but, if they were wood I would want to inspect them every
>>> year.
>>> David
>>> On 7-Oct-13, at 2:07 PM, Dominic Amann wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I noticed you suggested that it is a good idea to take down the mast
>>>> for
>>>> winter. I assume you have not yet done so for your boat? If not,
>>>> would you
>>>> accept a volunteer to help (so I can learn how it is done for my own
>>>> boat)?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Mon, Oct 7, 2013 at 11:57 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Very interesting Greg.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Black locust is wonderful wood.  We're making block shells out of
>>>>> it, and
>>>>> I'm planning on using it for the toe rails and rubbing strakes of
>>>>> my wooden
>>>>> boat as part of her rescue.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Best of all, when varnished it's got that lovely blonde look white
>>>>> oak has.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thank you.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Gord
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 07/10/13 11:53 AM, "Greg Bover" <gregbover at cbfisk.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I think I recognize the wood properties chart from page 4-7 of
>>>>>> The Wood
>>>>>> Handbook: wood as an engineering material, put out by the Forest
>>>>> Service. A
>>>>>> well-thumbed copy sits on my desk in the organ building company
>>>>>> where
>>>>> I've
>>>>>> been a wood worker and designer for 35 years. It is available at
>>>>>> many
>>>>>> libraries, especially academic ones, and can be had for cheap
>>>>>> second
>>>>> hand at
>>>>>> Alibris. Hickory does have great compressive strength parallel to
>>>>>> the
>>>>> grain,
>>>>>> but is in the grouping of "slightly or non-resistant" when it
>>>>>> comes to
>>>>>> decay, (page 3-18). The best domestic wood with the highest
>>>>>> compression
>>>>>> rating and in the "resistant to very resistant" category is black
>>>>>> locust,
>>>>>> followed closely by white oak. The book goes on to say that
>>>>>> decay is
>>>>>> hastened by water intrusion, so as others have mentioned, keeping
>>>>>> the
>>>>> finish
>>>>>> up and the bolt holes sealed is the key to longevity.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Greg Bover
>>>>>> A-30 #114
>>>>>> LINNET
>>>>>> Gloucester
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Dominic Amann
>>>> M 416-270-4587
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> 
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>> 
>> 
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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> Please support them.
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