[Public-List] Spreader Material

Mon Oct 7 12:43:46 PDT 2013

That may be a few years away. I don't think Phil, at least, has any  
plans for returning any time soon. Would enjoy seeing you before that.  
Hope you are monitoring their excellent blog and related pics.
David ABYC
On 7-Oct-13, at 3:17 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:

> Hello David - I reckon I'll be there when Krista and Phil return  
> from their
> trip south.
>
> G
>
>
>
> On 07/10/13 3:15 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Gord, we'd be happy to see you at ABYC again any time. Well,
>> I'm doing the right thing by taking it down every year. I did have to
>> replace the rusting pop rivets that hold the heavy aluminum spreader
>> housings in place.
>> David
>> On 7-Oct-13, at 3:03 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:
>>
>>> Hello David - great club.
>>>
>>> It's not the swages I'd suggest examining - Bruce is right that one
>>> needs to
>>> X ray or acid pigment them to reveal trouble - it's the pins,
>>> shackles,
>>> tangs, spreaders, sheaves etc that more frequently and regularly
>>> wear out.
>>>
>>> Gord  Surprise #426
>>>
>>>
>>> On 07/10/13 3:00 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> My Club, ABYC in Toronto, is moving towards a mast up haul out for
>>>> certain larger vessels. I will not take advantage of this because
>>>> dismasting an Alberg 30 is very easy given the right equipment and
>>>> people. ABYC is a self help Club and sports both. I loosen the rig,
>>>> replace the locking rings on the clevis pins with a length of  
>>>> copper
>>>> wire, very easy to remove. Then take the clevis pins out of the
>>>> forward and aft lowers and let them hang loose; move to the mast
>>>> crane
>>>> area. Put the straps around the mast and lift to just below the
>>>> spreaders. Good idea to have a secure line pulling down on the  
>>>> strap
>>>> and secured at the base of the mast. Remove the footing bolt,  
>>>> ensure
>>>> the strap now has the weight of the mast. Remove the four cardinal
>>>> uppers, lift the mast and it's done. The copper wire/clevis pin
>>>> method
>>>> beats turning off turnbuckles by several minutes.
>>>> When we had the boat in Prinyer's Cove for 7 years we never took  
>>>> the
>>>> mast down. Conventional wisdom says to always take it down to  
>>>> inspect
>>>> the swaged fittings. I asked Bruce Burgess at the rigging Shoppe
>>>> about
>>>> this and he told me that the only way you can identify weaknesses  
>>>> in
>>>> the swaging is by Xray. So it stayed up. Of course I have aluminum
>>>> spreaders but, if they were wood I would want to inspect them every
>>>> year.
>>>> David
>>>> On 7-Oct-13, at 2:07 PM, Dominic Amann wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I noticed you suggested that it is a good idea to take down the  
>>>>> mast
>>>>> for
>>>>> winter. I assume you have not yet done so for your boat? If not,
>>>>> would you
>>>>> accept a volunteer to help (so I can learn how it is done for my  
>>>>> own
>>>>> boat)?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, Oct 7, 2013 at 11:57 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Very interesting Greg.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Black locust is wonderful wood.  We're making block shells out of
>>>>>> it, and
>>>>>> I'm planning on using it for the toe rails and rubbing strakes of
>>>>>> my wooden
>>>>>> boat as part of her rescue.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Best of all, when varnished it's got that lovely blonde look  
>>>>>> white
>>>>>> oak has.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Gord
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 07/10/13 11:53 AM, "Greg Bover" <gregbover at cbfisk.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I think I recognize the wood properties chart from page 4-7 of
>>>>>>> The Wood
>>>>>>> Handbook: wood as an engineering material, put out by the Forest
>>>>>> Service. A
>>>>>>> well-thumbed copy sits on my desk in the organ building company
>>>>>>> where
>>>>>> I've
>>>>>>> been a wood worker and designer for 35 years. It is available at
>>>>>>> many
>>>>>>> libraries, especially academic ones, and can be had for cheap
>>>>>>> second
>>>>>> hand at
>>>>>>> Alibris. Hickory does have great compressive strength parallel  
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>> grain,
>>>>>>> but is in the grouping of "slightly or non-resistant" when it
>>>>>>> comes to
>>>>>>> decay, (page 3-18). The best domestic wood with the highest
>>>>>>> compression
>>>>>>> rating and in the "resistant to very resistant" category is  
>>>>>>> black
>>>>>>> locust,
>>>>>>> followed closely by white oak. The book goes on to say that
>>>>>>> decay is
>>>>>>> hastened by water intrusion, so as others have mentioned,  
>>>>>>> keeping
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>> finish
>>>>>>> up and the bolt holes sealed is the key to longevity.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Greg Bover
>>>>>>> A-30 #114
>>>>>>> LINNET
>>>>>>> Gloucester
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Dominic Amann
>>>>> M 416-270-4587
>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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