[Public-List] Spreader Material

Gordon Laco mainstay at csolve.net
Mon Oct 7 12:50:03 PDT 2013 

I think Krista will be back, for visits at least.  I think they're leaving
the boat south but they'll be back.  Krista works with me and we're brewing
a project for next year.

Lisa Slack sent me the blog link but I've lost it - could you send it to me?
Last I heard they were in Sandy Hook but that was ages ago.

G




On 07/10/13 3:43 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:

> That may be a few years away. I don't think Phil, at least, has any
> plans for returning any time soon. Would enjoy seeing you before that.
> Hope you are monitoring their excellent blog and related pics.
> David ABYC
> On 7-Oct-13, at 3:17 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:
> 
>> Hello David - I reckon I'll be there when Krista and Phil return
>> from their
>> trip south.
>> 
>> G
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 07/10/13 3:15 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Thanks Gord, we'd be happy to see you at ABYC again any time. Well,
>>> I'm doing the right thing by taking it down every year. I did have to
>>> replace the rusting pop rivets that hold the heavy aluminum spreader
>>> housings in place.
>>> David
>>> On 7-Oct-13, at 3:03 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Hello David - great club.
>>>> 
>>>> It's not the swages I'd suggest examining - Bruce is right that one
>>>> needs to
>>>> X ray or acid pigment them to reveal trouble - it's the pins,
>>>> shackles,
>>>> tangs, spreaders, sheaves etc that more frequently and regularly
>>>> wear out.
>>>> 
>>>> Gord  Surprise #426
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On 07/10/13 3:00 PM, "David Gilbert" <bigkanu at rogers.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> My Club, ABYC in Toronto, is moving towards a mast up haul out for
>>>>> certain larger vessels. I will not take advantage of this because
>>>>> dismasting an Alberg 30 is very easy given the right equipment and
>>>>> people. ABYC is a self help Club and sports both. I loosen the rig,
>>>>> replace the locking rings on the clevis pins with a length of
>>>>> copper
>>>>> wire, very easy to remove. Then take the clevis pins out of the
>>>>> forward and aft lowers and let them hang loose; move to the mast
>>>>> crane
>>>>> area. Put the straps around the mast and lift to just below the
>>>>> spreaders. Good idea to have a secure line pulling down on the
>>>>> strap
>>>>> and secured at the base of the mast. Remove the footing bolt,
>>>>> ensure
>>>>> the strap now has the weight of the mast. Remove the four cardinal
>>>>> uppers, lift the mast and it's done. The copper wire/clevis pin
>>>>> method
>>>>> beats turning off turnbuckles by several minutes.
>>>>> When we had the boat in Prinyer's Cove for 7 years we never took
>>>>> the
>>>>> mast down. Conventional wisdom says to always take it down to
>>>>> inspect
>>>>> the swaged fittings. I asked Bruce Burgess at the rigging Shoppe
>>>>> about
>>>>> this and he told me that the only way you can identify weaknesses
>>>>> in
>>>>> the swaging is by Xray. So it stayed up. Of course I have aluminum
>>>>> spreaders but, if they were wood I would want to inspect them every
>>>>> year.
>>>>> David
>>>>> On 7-Oct-13, at 2:07 PM, Dominic Amann wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I noticed you suggested that it is a good idea to take down the
>>>>>> mast
>>>>>> for
>>>>>> winter. I assume you have not yet done so for your boat? If not,
>>>>>> would you
>>>>>> accept a volunteer to help (so I can learn how it is done for my
>>>>>> own
>>>>>> boat)?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Mon, Oct 7, 2013 at 11:57 AM, Gordon Laco <mainstay at csolve.net>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Very interesting Greg.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Black locust is wonderful wood.  We're making block shells out of
>>>>>>> it, and
>>>>>>> I'm planning on using it for the toe rails and rubbing strakes of
>>>>>>> my wooden
>>>>>>> boat as part of her rescue.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Best of all, when varnished it's got that lovely blonde look
>>>>>>> white
>>>>>>> oak has.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thank you.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Gord
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On 07/10/13 11:53 AM, "Greg Bover" <gregbover at cbfisk.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I think I recognize the wood properties chart from page 4-7 of
>>>>>>>> The Wood
>>>>>>>> Handbook: wood as an engineering material, put out by the Forest
>>>>>>> Service. A
>>>>>>>> well-thumbed copy sits on my desk in the organ building company
>>>>>>>> where
>>>>>>> I've
>>>>>>>> been a wood worker and designer for 35 years. It is available at
>>>>>>>> many
>>>>>>>> libraries, especially academic ones, and can be had for cheap
>>>>>>>> second
>>>>>>> hand at
>>>>>>>> Alibris. Hickory does have great compressive strength parallel
>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> grain,
>>>>>>>> but is in the grouping of "slightly or non-resistant" when it
>>>>>>>> comes to
>>>>>>>> decay, (page 3-18). The best domestic wood with the highest
>>>>>>>> compression
>>>>>>>> rating and in the "resistant to very resistant" category is
>>>>>>>> black
>>>>>>>> locust,
>>>>>>>> followed closely by white oak. The book goes on to say that
>>>>>>>> decay is
>>>>>>>> hastened by water intrusion, so as others have mentioned,
>>>>>>>> keeping
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> finish
>>>>>>>> up and the bolt holes sealed is the key to longevity.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Greg Bover
>>>>>>>> A-30 #114
>>>>>>>> LINNET
>>>>>>>> Gloucester
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Dominic Amann
>>>>>> M 416-270-4587
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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> 
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