[Public-List] Rudder Shoe Replacement

Wes Gardner via Public-List public-list at lists.alberg30.org
Tue Jul 8 13:17:37 PDT 2014


For public knowledge, Fawcett's/Chesapeake Fasteners has all of the
required fasteners in stock.


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 3:51 PM, Mike Lehman via Public-List <
public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:

> Also, if the hole in the shoe is elongated, you can put a bushing in it.
> Also, the pin is actually a 3/8" bronze bolt that is screwed into the
> rudder stock...with a little luck you can unscrew the pin and replace it
> with another bronze bolt. Use a bolt with a shank (not threaded all the way
> to the head).
>
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)_/)~~ Mike Lehman ~~_/)~~~
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Brooks via Public-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 1:58 PM
> To: James Allocco ; Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: Re: [Public-List] Rudder Shoe Replacement
>
>
> Jim,  easy enough to check your rudder shoe.  Pull the shoe off and look
> for elongation
> In the hole where the rudder pin sits.  Also look at the rudder pin and
> determine if it has been worn down or elongated.  If so, time for a new pin
> in the rudder stock.  Probably requires pulling the rudder, which one
> person can do with some muscle and some serious wiggling of rudder back and
> forth. Then drill out the old pin, or if integral to the stock, cut off and
> blind drill and tap a 1/2 or 5/8" hole down into the rudder stock 2 to 3"
> and thread in a new silica bronze bolt (NOT STAINLESS ), cut off the head
> and wall-la reassemble.  Sounds horrible- it isn't.
>
> Note:  you may need to reem out or drill the hole in the rudder shoe to
> accommodate a new size pin.
>
> I did this a few years ago and used 5/8" pin, as there is plenty O
> material in the rudder shoe to drill oversize, and I love the extra bearing
> surface at the bottom of the rudder.  Actually I rebuilt the rudder with
> new 1" bronze shafting and had a machine shop turn the bottom of the shaft
> down into the pin, but plenty of albergers have drilled existing and
> replaced with bronze bolt.
>
> Glenn B
> Dolce 318
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>  On Jul 8, 2014, at 8:34 AM, James Allocco via Public-List <
>> public-list at lists.alberg30.org> wrote:
>>
>> Fellow Albergers'
>>
>> Thanks for the feedback concerning my stiff tiller movement.
>> I dove down to have a look but couldn't see a thing in the murky water. I
>> did notice play in both the prop shaft and rudder so I decided to have the
>> boat pulled.
>>
>> As it had been awhile since I replaced the bearing I checked the archives
>> for info on replacing the cutlass bearing and rudder shoe.
>>
>> To sum up the bearing replacement:
>>
>> 1. The Stern Post (bearing housing) is held on with 2 bolts and treaded
>> onto the Stern Tube.
>>
>> 2. After removing the upper and lower bolts it is best to have a helper
>> using a pipe wrench hold the Stern Tube from turning so as not to weaken
>> its connection to the caulk while unscrewing the Stern Post. It may be
>> necessary to apply heat to the Stern Post.
>>
>> 3. It may be necessary to drill out and retap the setscrew holes.
>>
>> 4. It may be necessary to use a hacksaw blade to cut the bearing for
>> removal. The bearing is a Morse Barracuda .875 x 1.375 x 3 1/2 that needs
>> to be cut to length.
>>
>> 5. Using the Stern Post a guide drill water vent holes is the bearing.
>>
>> Questions: Is it advisable to caulk the Stern Tube treads prior to
>> screwing
>> on the Stern Post?  Did I omit anything?
>>
>> Rudder Shoe Replacement:
>>
>> I couldn't find much info on the rudder shoe replacement and would
>> appreciate any advice someone has to offer.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jim Allocco
>> Barchetta Mia 565
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